Ryker

If you think that is acceptable then I pity your clients! The amount of contamination is ridiculous. It isn't just a few specs and isn't something that needs to dry out!

I agree that sucks....

Always use a fresh sharp point when starting. I snap 2 points every time I snap to be sure I get the edge that I used as well as the point.

Just leave it you'll get used to it.

Go for the map gas and ts8000 tip though. The m18 is not nearly hot enough...

If you are even on the outside then you are not lined up front to rear inside. Glass will vary a little on the inside sometimes but not a whole lot most times. Be sure you are getting the film the same distance front to rear.

I think you would be more than fair offering the 50% deal. Most just want 100% back. Tint won't be perfect but what you're describing is far from acceptable.

KWB your windows will be much darker than just 15% if they put a 25 over factory. As Bham says you can't tell with your eyes. My 20 will meter out about 17 on the front sides of your truck....

If your talking about the film popping off then figure out a smoother shrink style. The film pops because it's not flat. Over shrinking is a problem..... Look at my signature or look up "the ryk shrink" on YouTube. Figure that out and you will likely find your solution.

The distribution of the light is just as important as the brightness is. Sunlight is always going to win. Without light being full in the ambient then you are probably just blinding yourself with a single 10k lumen light.

Are you serious? I'm guessing not. We know that Klingon is the best though.

If you have a helper that can hold the film while you peel the liner or won't be bad. Same sort of slip you used for auto. Put the film on over size then trim. I sure you can find videos of how.

What is the white specs all over the windows and trim? Looks like paint over spray. I think we're being punked.....

Just because the car is brand new with no miles doesn't mean it was perfect. Glass could have been r&r before it even left the plant! I seriously doubt the tinter did this. If it was a hard card like tintdude says I think it would have destroyed the film....

Nothing, repeat, nothing a window tinter does would make these. Looks like the glass might have been removed and replaced it's something.

Charge as much or more than anyone around then do the job until it looks good enough. You might not make much but you won't be lowballing the pricing either!

Frit and glass primer. Can get a one use tube that has a pad to paint with. Check with your local glass shops.

Get a small charger to keep on older vehicles esp older batteries.

Which is it? In a few months it went from good to compete crap?

I personally don't worry about this much. Most are either single pane older windows or sinker pane insulated glass. While a low-e can effect the film choice I have not had any issues in 22 years. If its double pane I may try to stay a a general under a 50% Total Solar Absorbtion. If you find a triple pane you probably won't get a manufacturer to cover it no matter what. You can hold a light or lighter up to the window to find the number of panes and also often see a low-e coating.

You can't drag solution over an already squeegeed place. Star pattern from the middle.

What film you are using will make a big difference. Heat gun or guns, torch, how hot they are, how close, how you move them, how you angle them. All of these will make a difference in the shrink!

Not acceptable in my opinion. Redo

What vehicle? Bigger full picture?

Learn about film to glass charts, solar properties of film, solar absorption particular, and thermal stress. I don't generally tint over any decals. Contamination is going to exist. How much will depend on the age of the glass and frames as well as the type of materials. You have to find an acceptable tolerance for quality for yourself and the customer. If it is too much contamination then you pull it off and go again!