redneckj

Look up Protective Film Solution in Orange county. I'm sure they have done many.

I know folks doing ppf on hundreds of dealer cars per month in the new England area, so they must be dealing with different dealerships.  I respect your opinion and we'll have to agree to disagree. 

Maybe consider trying a bulldozer next time. 

Xpel 

If you're looking for a veteran in this industry that content anywhere I'm 6 to 12 cars and cut or 18 cars a day plotter cut that can do wraps ppf vinyl anything that has to do with a sticker it's a $5, 000 sign on bonus what's a plane ticket to where I want to go with a stay

I found my last heat gun, used, on offer up.  A pawn shop had it locally.  I showed up and it looked like it had very little use.  Worked great.  He rang it up and gave me a deal at $30.  A Milwaukee heat gun for $30.  How do you say NO to that.  6 months later it still works great.  But I do agree with Midnight.  The old school Makita guns are the best.  I still have one at home.  They usually last me for 5-6 years and I go through 3 cords before the gun fails.  
 
This is a new one on Amazon.
 
https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-8975-6-1000-Degree-Fahrenheit-Temperature/dp/B00U0WTYO6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1549753613&sr=8-4&keywords=milwaukee+heat+gun
 

That is an awesome story.  Most tinters think the hotter the better when it comes to heat guns.  IMHO that is not true.  Yes, the gun needs to be hot but more important is the CFM that the heat gun produces.  The "roofing" 220 volt heat guns doesn't  get any hotter than a $20 wagner heat gun but they blow A LOT more air.  I have seen a guy shrink a Camry back glass template in about 35 seconds with a roofing 220 volt heat gun.  
 
This is a great heat gun for the money.  13 CFM
 
https://www.amazon.com/Steinel-Multi-Purpose-Temperature-Adjustable-Industry/dp/B06XDJVNWC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549852449&sr=8-2&keywords=HL+1620+S
 
This is also a good heat gun.
 
https://www.amazon.com/Steinel-803-UltraHeat-Temperature-Lightweight/dp/B01MDUFTT0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1549852587&sr=8-4&keywords=steinel+heat+gun
 
 

This is the perfect example why  you should never cut on the glass on a customers car.  All the glass that is cut has to be replaced.   Glass has gotten softer and softer over the years.  I noticed glass  really starting to change back in 2004.  Since then I have gotten completely away from cutting on the car.  I use a sharpie if I have to free hand a car.  Xpel's DAP tint patterns are my tint patterns of choice.  I cant say enough about how well the patterns fit.  

This is the perfect example why  you should never cut on the glass on a customers car.  All the glass that is cut has to be replaced.   Glass has gotten softer and softer over the years.  I noticed glass  really starting to change back in 2004.  Since then I have gotten completely away from cutting on the car.  I use a sharpie if I have to free hand a car.  Xpel's DAP tint patterns are my tint patterns of choice.  I cant say enough about how well the patterns fit.  

Why?

Yeah, what Jake said.  If its a store bought soap, spill the beans.  

yes it did.  Well aware of that, just thought it might have been some left over OLD stock.   When the "new bug" came out in 1998, the first one that I tinted I had to use Platinum plus 18 on the car.  Fun stuff 

then on the sides and bottom of the window where there is a little glass cleaner left, wash it off with straight water.  The key is straight water, NOT slip solution.  

then on the sides and bottom of the window where there is a little glass cleaner left, wash it off with straight water.  The key is straight water, NOT slip solution.  

I use the black out ppf squeegee for cleaning the glass.  The pink clean is just a little too soft for me. 

Hard to beat this chair for the money. Just don't install the back and your good to go
 
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-Mesh-Task-Chair-with-breathable-mesh-back-and-plush-padded-seat-black/986400372

Yes,  you just need something slick on the tint surface to help the squeegee slide.   Your normal slip should be fine.  Use a blue max or the new red squeegee( I haven't tried it yet).   

I use a bucket with clean water.  Sometimes I add a little soap.  I dip my hands in it before I touch the tint.  Works great.  Different techniques for different people.  Try it and see if it works for you.

I use a bucket with clean water.  Sometimes I add a little soap.  I dip my hands in it before I touch the tint.  Works great.  Different techniques for different people.  Try it and see if it works for you.

I started tinting in 1984.  I have used just about every kind of tint at one time or another. I am  currently and installing Xpel XR black.  GREAT film.  The adhesive is perfect.  Depending on temperature and which window I am installing, I use Film ON or J & J baby shampoo (the new formula).  TBH, the Xpel films  hard coat is the best I have ever seen.  The film dries out fast and I have never had a complaint about "low angle haze".  Also, they have plenty of percentages available to meet customer needs.  Give it a try.  

This technique will require 2 people.  I would have a 1/2 gallon of super super hot water on standby.     I would think you would tack the back of the hood 5-6 inches,  from Left to right. Pour the super hot water all over the hood really quick.  One person needs to pull down the middle towards the Lexus emblem in the front.   squeegee it from  the back of the hood towards the front while the film is stretched over the front edge of the hood.  Then you can work on the left and right sides of the hood.    Good luck.  

I just buy another one.  Tint tools are cheep.  

I just buy another one.  Tint tools are cheep.  

Nick might know a thing or two about squeegees and hard cards.
 
  I think the person starting this thread is looking for a hard card while he is shrinking film.  I would recommend the Gold 3M PA-1 or the  gold colored Teflon hard card.  

That is awesome.  I have never seen that video before.   Thanks for posting