The ///Man

The ford seemed a little off, but the subie was dead on

I was washing my Ford and saw this. I know there is more, but this reminded me of this thread. I would say if it’s your paint you should offer to pay for re-filming it, but if it’s their work, they would probably do it to make you happy. I can tell you though, there are several paint imperfections on my 2017. 

May be worth your while to look into plastidip

My system kept me from having to hire another a tinter. There are two of us and we get along. Every tinter that comes in does 10 cars a day, perfect, and never misses a day of work. The reality is they cry after 3, all of them come back, and they miss more days than they work. Dealing with tinters gets old, and even as a 1 man show like this week with my help out with pneumonia, it’s been a godsend as I am able to keep up with our appointments being in 2 places at once with the cutter. I’ve been using precision cut pretty consistently since 2010-2011 and I can say it’s pretty rare that something is completely awful with patterns. We’ve adjusted our installs to the patterns though, so maybe that helps versus those who think the patterns should adjust to their style, no matter how ridiculous it is. 
 
I’ll leave it at this. If precision cut costs you the equivalent of 1-2 tint jobs a month, the flip side at least for me is that it’s allowed the two of us to do 2-3 more jobs a day with greater consistency, less waste and less frustration. I will never complain about a couple hundred a month if it means an extra $10,000 a month. 

My system kept me from having to hire another a tinter. There are two of us and we get along. Every tinter that comes in does 10 cars a day, perfect, and never misses a day of work. The reality is they cry after 3, all of them come back, and they miss more days than they work. Dealing with tinters gets old, and even as a 1 man show like this week with my help out with pneumonia, it’s been a godsend as I am able to keep up with our appointments being in 2 places at once with the cutter. I’ve been using precision cut pretty consistently since 2010-2011 and I can say it’s pretty rare that something is completely awful with patterns. We’ve adjusted our installs to the patterns though, so maybe that helps versus those who think the patterns should adjust to their style, no matter how ridiculous it is. 
 
I’ll leave it at this. If precision cut costs you the equivalent of 1-2 tint jobs a month, the flip side at least for me is that it’s allowed the two of us to do 2-3 more jobs a day with greater consistency, less waste and less frustration. I will never complain about a couple hundred a month if it means an extra $10,000 a month. 

Wonder if there is a defect in the glass creating a magnified light situation...like using a magnified glass with the sun to burn something.  It would explain the burned film and breakage after from heat.  Just a guess though....never seen it.

I think he means he put a nasty scratch in the frit band. Tough rather than buying new windows you may be able to paint it with a glass primer and it not be noticeable from even a few inches away. I have to do this sometimes with new windshields that have part of the frit scratched.

If you remove the little plastic push clips, you can pull the panel back and remove the sweep. Then just drop the pattern down the door, push out the glass, and spread it. Removing the sweep will keep water out of the door module too.

It is pretty curved at the bottom.  I can't imagine shrinking it without something very curved to shrink against.

Here's the removal if it helps anyone.
 
 
This was about the hardest part to not damage.  These little clip things need to be pushed from the sides but they are tight and stretched a bit.  Mine were a little loose when I put it back together, but maybe next time I can get it a little better since I can see the clips.
 


 
Pop off the covers on the handles and remove these bolts.
 

 
These clips also
 

 
From there you can pop off the plastic panel.
 
Next are the bolts for the brake lights.
 


 
There is a clip that keeps it attached.  It takes a little muscle to release but I don't think you can really break anything pulling.
 

 
There is the white panel across the back next that is bolted on.  
 


 
I think this is the spoiler bolt in the middle 
 

 
The side spoiler bolts.
 

 
Wiper bolts.
 

 

Here's the removal if it helps anyone.
 
 
This was about the hardest part to not damage.  These little clip things need to be pushed from the sides but they are tight and stretched a bit.  Mine were a little loose when I put it back together, but maybe next time I can get it a little better since I can see the clips.
 


 
Pop off the covers on the handles and remove these bolts.
 

 
These clips also
 

 
From there you can pop off the plastic panel.
 
Next are the bolts for the brake lights.
 


 
There is a clip that keeps it attached.  It takes a little muscle to release but I don't think you can really break anything pulling.
 

 
There is the white panel across the back next that is bolted on.  
 


 
I think this is the spoiler bolt in the middle 
 

 
The side spoiler bolts.
 

 
Wiper bolts.
 

 

If you remove the little plastic push clips, you can pull the panel back and remove the sweep. Then just drop the pattern down the door, push out the glass, and spread it. Removing the sweep will keep water out of the door module too.

I would say if you were selling Llumar as a primary line of film and have been, you might be able to talk to your rep. Just starting out and only wanting to buy a little CTX for here and theres, it's pretty understandable they want to limit access to the software.

I think the issue is people getting llumar marketing materials and llumar PC, then not actually selling llumar film. There are a few shops in my town with all of the llumar crap out, but they aren't dealers.