pbalentine

first bump the price up....and tell the owner you will give a discount (back to normal price) if they clean the windows first.....and if there is any dirt .......their fault !
thats how I roll

For tight spoilers i trace the top with a marker.  If where i traced is lets say a 1/2 inch from top Matrix.  I will compensate by trimming the bottom a tad longer.  

For tight spoilers i trace the top with a marker.  If where i traced is lets say a 1/2 inch from top Matrix.  I will compensate by trimming the bottom a tad longer.  

I do double shrink, even vettes.  Panel off and it wouldnt of fingered.  Its just something with framless rollups.  Even back when i tucked everything, still would get fingers sometimes on frameless. Still, less time to remove panel, plus its the only way to avoid felt contamination.  

The seals pull on those as well but you'll be amazed the difference on that shrinking.

Never tried shrinkng that way. I’ll give it a try sometime.  Frameless windows get fingers a lot for me, even without much shrinking needed like on the newer camaro. 

Just for future reference the best way I've found for finger free is to shrink the film, once it's flat lift it kinda rolling up on itself. Let that fall naturally and then shrink again. I do that on the Honda Accord that had the pia rear door.

I always squeegee side to side to prevent them. Much easier to just take it off. Anyways i found the removal. 
 
1 - 10mm at handle pull
4 - 10mm under long trim piece
 
 
 
 

armolan 15 percent

Never had finger issue on tesla's. Next time once you get film in place. Squeegee the very bottom of window left to right. Swipe below seal with blue tri. BAM no more fingers on framless doors

I would of razored it!! If film is over 5 years or looks bad, I usually give them a heads up that it might get razored(defrosts wont work). If its a turd then i just razor away.  I would get some adhesive remover.  When i razor back windows i steam small areas and follow the steam with the blade. 

Nice websites guys!
 
Here is mine: 
https://prolinewindowtint.com/

Nice websites guys!
 
Here is mine: 
https://prolinewindowtint.com/

Oh yeah, when you pull the ES350 lexus door panels, be careful of the door light on the panel. Theres no slack in the wire, so if the panel goes more than like 2 inches away from door frame it pulls out of the housing and takes ahwile to get back together.  Plus, with no slack in the wire makes it hard to reinstall. Maybe I should stop pulling these and give custy a chisler if they complain about seal contamination. 

Check out this homemade visor strip cutter me and my dad made today out of scrap aluminum c channel!

Ya know, i was looking at that guide pin yesterday and wondered that was part of the problem.  I just couldnt tell if i should keep panel away or close to door while sliding back on. On the rear panels of the ES350 i did yesterday, it did appear that the seal can come off. This is going to help a lot. 
 
Thanks guys!

I want to say on the newer ones you can release the seal from the panel after pulling. That'll make it pop straight back on kinda like a charger or 300. I don't do enough of them to remember accurately though.

The hard part about these is the plastic guide pin getting in the way until you have the sweep all the down across the top.  
 
When re-installing you have to start the panel at the tweeter or mirror area and raise the other end up high on an angle.  Start the panel at the tweeter and slower lower your high end down, keeping up against the glass.  While lowering it down, keep the bottom of the panel out away from the door and the top of the panel against the glass.  
 
Once the panel is all the way down across the top sweep area, lay of the floor and reach up in between the panel and the door cavity and work the long plastic guide pin into the proper hole.  The panel will now line right up.   

A little birdie once told me if you cut off the line up piece that sticks out on the back side of the panel she'll go right back on. 

I'm using it to straighten out the jagged Factory edges....

older cars I blast the gaskets to remove the trash,  new cars require less cleaning typically.  as a top loader, old cars are more prone to dirt trails on the flipline from water and debris running back in.  As a slip I like Ultra-bond straight for fast set and better bond strength.  summer I add a drop of J&J for extra work time in high temp and humidity.

Its not about eliminating steps to get things done faster.
 
Its about learning a routine and repetition and mastering the craft of window tinting..... then comes speed.
 
it use to take me 4 hours a car when i first started. Now (5 years later) i can complete a whole car in 1.5-2hrs, pulling panels hand cutting and sticking super clean windows out the door.
 
AND its not work if it is FUN!!!!

Can just the top be popped to slip the seal out or do need to remove the entire panel?? Doors that index just need the seal/panel removed.
 
Thanks nanamja!!

Damn, just ordered the ergodyne through EWF! That pouch from lowes looks nice! Havnt been to lowes in a couple years, just always at Home Depot. Thanks again!

awesome man I'm glad I could help.