Bham

Something a bit different.  5% on the sides, 20% on the rear glass and 35% on the windshield.
 

Couple from the weekend.
 
Ceramic w/ visor strip. I don't miss doing these qtrs on the regular.
 
Full ceramic w/ windshield, 18" H-F-HL.
 
Had a few other door sets but nothing too special. Full wrap coming at the end of the week.

Unfortunately the NIR specs in a single wavelength tells you nothing and are useless in determining overall performance of any film. Single wavelength use is a marketing ploy so the maker can thump their chest about theirs being bigger than yours. 92% @ 1025nm wavelength is one of 1720 wavelengths found in the NIR spectrum, with the most intense being between 780nm - 1500nm-ish. NIR is not heat, it is electromagnetic energy.
 
TSER for the product you speak of is 52%; therein lies the performance capability of that product.
 
As to the perforated shade, yes it will assist in the 'feel', however, it allows any transmitted solar energy to be absorbed by its material, converting to far infrared (heat) and radiated to the cabin. Film on the glass is far more effective in reducing heat build up on all surfaces in the cabin (from the sun's energy); making it warm inside.

There are people way smarter than me but I'll sling a guess out there that what you are experiencing is the difference between IR and R factors.  Window tint blocks(absorbs/reflects) UV and IR parts of the heat spectrum,  BUT window tint does not have an " R factor " like the pink stuff in your attic.  It takes mass to create an " R " factor.  
 
The shade is designed to reduce heat and also has the mass to create more of R factor in heat rejection and I am assuming that is the difference you are feeling.   

Yes, Crystalline would be your best choice. I have Crystalline 40 on my driver/passenger doors and love it. It's been there for 7 years and still performs and looks the same as the day it was installed.

As to the glass in the roof, it has laminated glass that is more prone to thermal stress. It also may have one layer of 'tinted' glass that isn't doing so much in terms solar rejection. The best way to tell is to open it partially and compare white clouds looking from the inside to determine glass 'color'.

If the glass has a factory tint to it, you can ask around tint shops to see if they carry a reflective (mirror or semi-mirror) architectural film with relatively low absorption with much better solar reflective properties.. It has to be a film using a pressure sensitive adhesive system (already stick under the protective liner.

Another option in the architectural film choices would be a dual reflective film. Dual (or DR) films have a layer of tint and a reflective layer laminated together to provide low reflective to the interior side and enhanced reflectivity to the exterior facing. They, too, have lower absorption rates with moderate to serious solar rejection. Again, a pressure sensitive adhesive is a must for automotive installations of architectural film.
 
If there is a tint is the roof glass, any reflective appearance of reflective (or mirror type) film will be diminished in the same fashion as laminating a tint layer to a reflective layer to make dual reflect film products. So in essence from outside the vehicle the reflectivity of the roof would  be less than placing mirrored film on relatively clear glass.

Ceramics, ceramic-dyed and straight-dyed films are the most absorptive films on the market.
 
Good luck in your search for the architectural film with pressure sensitive adhesive. You might see if SolarGard, Johnson, VKool, Huper Optiks, or Madico film still sells pressure sensitive adhesive version of their reflective films.

The nonsense is that you are not looking at all the factors of the situation and just trying to eliminate part of the equation when the other part of the equation is still plausible and part of the problem.  You also are not understanding the fact that if you didn't have skin the type of film wouldn't matter.  The only way you know ceramic works is by feel and IR is what you feel the most of.  This simply explains why ceramic films work.   But you seem to know way more than someone in the business so best of luck to you and your expertise.  

I got this tip along time ago here and I’m just passing it along. Get some remote wire like a 12-14 gauge spool on Amazon. Preferably black. Then shove that wire into the gasket with a bone tool. This will open it up and keep dust trapped behind it making install super easy. Leave the wire in there when done. If done correctly no one will ever see it except the guy that replaces broken glass. 

To add to what @TintDudesaid,,, @GiftBobson since this is an off-roading video, this is more than likely a windshield protectant film that does actually go on the outside. It is not for normal vehicles and is sort of like the paint protection film you see on peoples hoods and fenders. Normal window tint goes on the inside of the vehicle so the elements of weather do not destroy the film.  
 
Also part of the joke here is the fact they installed it horribly in the outdoors. 

That's what it was.  A protection film.  These type of builds focus on trying to encourage people to do things themselves.  I can only imagine the visibility of a DIY install like that though. 

My advice would be to check with other local shops and see what they are charging. Try to get them to provide quoests via email so you aren't wasting a lot of their time coming out and doing a 'fake' estimate. 
 
Another idea would be to call the local reps of whatever films you are planning on carrying and ask them for some pricing guidance in your market. They may or may not be able to help. 
 
 

No, no. Only in make believe. This is where you playact the role of a client wanting to have their windows tinted.
 
Have window glass dimension(s) ready and call. Explain you want an estimate on those measurements and you are looking for something in a medium darkness range. Play dumb about film and be careful not to let them in on you being a potential competitor.
 
The key is to move the conversation toward your end goal of getting an estimate without them coming to your place. Once you have a price from them you can reverse determine they're pricing per meter or per foot. 2-3 different calls would give a good range to work with in respect to setting your own pricing.

The pics look like this is a Tesla so the rear glass would have to be a 60" piece to be able to do that in one piece. 
 
If I am correct and it is a Tesla @TrojanGoose I would have them remove the rear glass and not re-tint it unless they can do the whole thing in one piece.  Tesla's have a reputation for "thermal fracture" due to the longe curved design of that rear glass.  Tinting only half the glass could possibly cause it to crack.  

The pics look like this is a Tesla so the rear glass would have to be a 60" piece to be able to do that in one piece. 
 
If I am correct and it is a Tesla @TrojanGoose I would have them remove the rear glass and not re-tint it unless they can do the whole thing in one piece.  Tesla's have a reputation for "thermal fracture" due to the longe curved design of that rear glass.  Tinting only half the glass could possibly cause it to crack.  

Here’s a video demonstrating this process. 
 
 

You might already be using this method and if so, why the heck haven't you told us about it?  
If not,  this method might just be your new favorite thing.  I discovered this method doing a removal on an SUV hatch and didn't want to get glue all over me from it being over my head.  I tried this method and will be using it on ALL removals from now on.  
 
By now we are all using some type of adhesive remover that works really well turning the glue to goo; but it's rather messy. 
Usually we pull the old piece off in one piece leaving the glue.  Spray the glue with remover and then put the removed piece of film back on the glass reversed and let it soak.  At this point, after it has softened the glue, I would pull the piece of film down and scrape the glue with a hard card and let the goo stuff fall on the film or a drop cloth.  Rather nasty but effective way to do it, BUT try this.  
 
Pull your old film and flip it over and soak your glue in remover. After the glue has softened but BEFORE you pull your liner film down - spray your liner with soapy water and then take a hard card or squeegee of your choosing( I use the 6" black & white) and start at the sides and pull as much glue as you can to the center of the glass; while leaving the liner on the glass. 
You will see the glue moving under the film. Your squeegee will stay clean because it's not touching glue.  Do this on both sides pulling the glue to the center and up from the bottom hat rack area.  The glue will stay on the liner when you pull it down and now all you have to do is a little clean up with some steel wool and a scrub pad.  This method is way less messy that pulling the liner down and scraping. 
 
I wish I had found this method years ago because it gets 90% of the glue off without getting you or your tools sticky. 

Those are giant water and air pockets. Take it back and have them redo.

Lay the film on the glass, overlap top or bottom, mark the edges carefully with a marker,  shrink whichever part halfway.  Then lift the film off and move it a little to shrink the other part.  Then you can trim the film to size or a little large.
 
Should be good to go from there.  Hit a little heat on the final install if needed. 

Sandbag?

That's it! I'm using ATR to remove ATR from now on! 

ATR  

Here’s a video demonstrating this process. 
 
 

ATR  

Just finished this one. Full front end + edges and door thresholds. Ceramic doors and hand wax.

Actually got to work on my personal vehicle for once.  5% over the back, 20% on the fronts, 70% on the windshield and 35% on the pano roof.  Also tinted my rear taillights, third brake light as well as the front side headlight markers.  
 
 

Here’s a video demonstrating this process.