Bham

Those type of skills come with time.  You have to get a feel for how the process works and how the film acts before you will understand the advanced shrinking techniques.  
 
You can search the lift & pull method and also the different dry shrinking techniques.  

Those type of skills come with time.  You have to get a feel for how the process works and how the film acts before you will understand the advanced shrinking techniques.  
 
You can search the lift & pull method and also the different dry shrinking techniques.  

Darker films are harder to shrink.  Like @TintDude said, if this is CS film from MMM then you need to get a different film for practice.  The CS line is hard to work with and you might not be learning properly because of the difficulty of the film to work with.  Proper beginning techniques are not going to be the same with this film and you don't know any advanced techniques to make this film easier to work with.  After getting a different film in a lighter shade, you learning process will be much more pleasant and easier.      

Couple of questions.
How did you get a roll of 3M film? 
Is it the 'color stable' "CS" line? If so that is a tricky film to shrink and not representative of the way most films need to be shrunk. Def not a beginners film.

Gareware
Xpel 
Global 

A first for me, as usual strip and retint. Easy car. Pinnacle 30/15 

Why you gotta be so impatient!! 😝

Well, gotter done!! Don’t want to do another one again too soon. Practicing that two letter word…..N…..O……=NO!

Personally I would run and tell them never to call you back again.  Never saw any results from them other than the money they charge for this and for that.  There are all kinds of hidden fees that don't really add up to helping you in any way.  Took me forever to get rid of them and they kept trying to charge me after I told them to pound sand.   

Personally I would run and tell them never to call you back again.  Never saw any results from them other than the money they charge for this and for that.  There are all kinds of hidden fees that don't really add up to helping you in any way.  Took me forever to get rid of them and they kept trying to charge me after I told them to pound sand.   

Personally I would run and tell them never to call you back again.  Never saw any results from them other than the money they charge for this and for that.  There are all kinds of hidden fees that don't really add up to helping you in any way.  Took me forever to get rid of them and they kept trying to charge me after I told them to pound sand.   

You sure you're not wearing polarized sunglasses? 😎

2023 Lexus IS 350 = doors have an insane amount of shrink to them. I was rather surprised how much. 
 
 

2023 Lexus IS 350 = doors have an insane amount of shrink to them. I was rather surprised how much. 
 
 

‘69 in the house   LS3 w/T-56 6spd
 
 

I just did a '69 the other day too!
 

Better give it the ol high speed wind test before returning to customer. Just to be prudent.  

‘69 in the house   LS3 w/T-56 6spd
 
 

Yh i guess you are right, however I have noticed marks in the tint which resemble a hair, meaning not cleaning could be the answer. I'm going back to tint shop to discuss the options and take it from there. Thanks for the help
 

I think you have purchased and installed a faulty piece of glass.  It is very possible, since you bought a junkyard piece of glass, that there is "weld spatter" on the glass.  
 
The only way to know for sure is to pull the tint off the glass and them feel the glass with your hand or run a plastic card across it.  You will 100% feel the weld spatter if that's what it is.  If that is what it is, you can't do anything about and you will need to buy a brand new rear glass. 

That looks like contamination to me. Rust? Nope, never seen glass rust. I have seen welding slag cause a similar appearance. It's where someone welded or grinded something next to the glass and some of the hot sparks will stick to the glass and causes little lumps and pitting that look very similar to heavy contamination.
 
I don't think that's the case here though. Without being able to see it in person, I can't say for sure. 
 
 

Been awhile, still got it. 

Perforated vinyl might be your only solution. Unfortunately it will reduce the amount of light coming into the room from those doors, but it will eliminate any exterior surface reflection and still allow visibility out the doors. Also consider doing partial glass coverage. Hopefully, you don't have an HOA to deal with.
https://www.amazon.com/VViViD-Perforated-Privacy-Air-Release-Adhesive/dp/B01BLVCU4A?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A10111992WJRYRFBZH9IS&th=1

Michigan Tinting off Dixie Highway in Waterford installs Huper Optik. They carry other brands too so just let them know you want that brand film.
 
google maps link below:
 
Michigan Tinting - Window Tinting & Protective Films
(248) 599-2975
https://maps.app.goo.gl/aMnemB1qFQZcxCzn8?g_st=ic