Tintguy1980

A lie leading to self taught.

I sold film across the counter at a 100% mark up / sq ft. Some would come back and show me their effort, some would come back and ask for the BG to be done and others kept coming for more and more film.
 
If someone ask me how much to install their film bought from another source, I would ask them, 'How much did you pay for your film'? Once I was told their cost, I would mark it up 100%, deduct it from my fee to install when using my film (ex. 200$ for a pro install minus the doubled price they paid for their film), and the remainder is what they paid for me to install their film (ex. They paid 35$. Minus that from 200$ and the cost to install their film would be 130$).
 
Almost always they would ask why so much if they provide the product. I'd answer with explaining the mark up of film cost is the same as I do with what I pay for my film in the total cost for the pro job, you add in labor, overhead costs and my profit for doing business with you... that is why it still cost that much. And oh by the way sir/ma'am, there is no warranty and since I do not have enough to correct any mistakes made with your film, you get what you get when I am done.
 
They always seem to think if they provide the product, it is suppose to be half or less.
 
I did the same recently by purchasing a clawfoot tub for a bath upgrade. Called contractors to get quotes to revamp and install the tub I purchased and what do you think I got in terms of quotes once I let them in on the fact I already had the tub? You pay the price one way or another is the moral of this story.

Security for residential begins with 8-mil safety and security film. 3M's Ultra 6-mil can perform as well as an 8-mil from other mannies. Attachment is really only necessary on units with tempered glass. Tempered breaks into beads and can be pushed out. Annealed glass breaks into large shards and holds together as one unit because of the edge bite (the amount of glass inside the framing). Not to mention, annealed has the best chance of collecting DNA.
 
Attachment is possible on what is in your pictures; the deeper inset frames can have the wet-glaze system (the amount of structural adhesive needed is not the same as what is used for wind storm mitigation) ... and, the thinner inset frames should accommodate Pentagon Elite/Gullwing, which is made from soft and medium hard PCV material. It utilizes a serious double back tape for adhesion to surfaces. Attachments are not pleasing to the eye.
 
All you need is to slow them down for ten seconds or longer. It's a fact that perps give up if they cannot get inside within ten seconds.
 
Ask a local glass company to remove the glass from the frame in the bathroom and reassemble with the pimpled surface facing out.
 
Dual-pane drives up the inability to intrude as well.
 
If you are really serious and your wallet can take it, replace all accessible window glass units with dual-pane using laminated glass as one of the glass layers. No need for film then and it'll far outlast safety film.
 
Good luck.

Security for residential begins with 8-mil safety and security film. 3M's Ultra 6-mil can perform as well as an 8-mil from other mannies. Attachment is really only necessary on units with tempered glass. Tempered breaks into beads and can be pushed out. Annealed glass breaks into large shards and holds together as one unit because of the edge bite (the amount of glass inside the framing). Not to mention, annealed has the best chance of collecting DNA.
 
Attachment is possible on what is in your pictures; the deeper inset frames can have the wet-glaze system (the amount of structural adhesive needed is not the same as what is used for wind storm mitigation) ... and, the thinner inset frames should accommodate Pentagon Elite/Gullwing, which is made from soft and medium hard PCV material. It utilizes a serious double back tape for adhesion to surfaces. Attachments are not pleasing to the eye.
 
All you need is to slow them down for ten seconds or longer. It's a fact that perps give up if they cannot get inside within ten seconds.
 
Ask a local glass company to remove the glass from the frame in the bathroom and reassemble with the pimpled surface facing out.
 
Dual-pane drives up the inability to intrude as well.
 
If you are really serious and your wallet can take it, replace all accessible window glass units with dual-pane using laminated glass as one of the glass layers. No need for film then and it'll far outlast safety film.
 
Good luck.

Security for residential begins with 8-mil safety and security film. 3M's Ultra 6-mil can perform as well as an 8-mil from other mannies. Attachment is really only necessary on units with tempered glass. Tempered breaks into beads and can be pushed out. Annealed glass breaks into large shards and holds together as one unit because of the edge bite (the amount of glass inside the framing). Not to mention, annealed has the best chance of collecting DNA.
 
Attachment is possible on what is in your pictures; the deeper inset frames can have the wet-glaze system (the amount of structural adhesive needed is not the same as what is used for wind storm mitigation) ... and, the thinner inset frames should accommodate Pentagon Elite/Gullwing, which is made from soft and medium hard PCV material. It utilizes a serious double back tape for adhesion to surfaces. Attachments are not pleasing to the eye.
 
All you need is to slow them down for ten seconds or longer. It's a fact that perps give up if they cannot get inside within ten seconds.
 
Ask a local glass company to remove the glass from the frame in the bathroom and reassemble with the pimpled surface facing out.
 
Dual-pane drives up the inability to intrude as well.
 
If you are really serious and your wallet can take it, replace all accessible window glass units with dual-pane using laminated glass as one of the glass layers. No need for film then and it'll far outlast safety film.
 
Good luck.

Companies are trying everything in their playbook to save $$. The result is seen in that picture. 4 things at work here, new conductive (line or grid) coating not liking to stick to glass, poor firing of that coating to the glass, surface contamination prior to coating being applied to glass or any and all of these.
 
Pure and simply quality issue with delivered glass to the car maker.
 
Toyota's were having a running problem with this a few years ago and after they investigated, it was determined to be the fault of one of their glass supplier.

Companies are trying everything in their playbook to save $$. The result is seen in that picture. 4 things at work here, new conductive (line or grid) coating not liking to stick to glass, poor firing of that coating to the glass, surface contamination prior to coating being applied to glass or any and all of these.
 
Pure and simply quality issue with delivered glass to the car maker.
 
Toyota's were having a running problem with this a few years ago and after they investigated, it was determined to be the fault of one of their glass supplier.

Try GdiTools catalog. They don't put a number, they use a scale like giving a product a review scale. Most squeegee blades and hardcards.
 
http://gditools.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/GDI-Tools-Catalog-2016_web.pdf

As a homeowner, the best means of determining what film is best in terms of light, dark or medium is to take 8 x 10 samples one at a time, wrap them around your face as makeshift sunglass and view the window you wish to have it installed to. If a small piece is installed to the glass it will appear darker than its appearance when covering the entire opening. The remaining untinted area allows brighter light to stream in making that small sample seem dark.
 
Few installers apply film to an entire pane due to costs involved and if there were another adjacent pane, you would still be comparing bright light intrusion to reduced light, again making the tinted panel appear darker than it would appear if both were tinted. The above sunglass trick works very well when clients are struggling with VLT choice. They can even capture part of the room in their viewing to determine what the room would look like with the window tinted.

As a homeowner, the best means of determining what film is best in terms of light, dark or medium is to take 8 x 10 samples one at a time, wrap them around your face as makeshift sunglass and view the window you wish to have it installed to. If a small piece is installed to the glass it will appear darker than its appearance when covering the entire opening. The remaining untinted area allows brighter light to stream in making that small sample seem dark.
 
Few installers apply film to an entire pane due to costs involved and if there were another adjacent pane, you would still be comparing bright light intrusion to reduced light, again making the tinted panel appear darker than it would appear if both were tinted. The above sunglass trick works very well when clients are struggling with VLT choice. They can even capture part of the room in their viewing to determine what the room would look like with the window tinted.

You mean the one that says, "Aww man can you do better than that" or your true to life buddy?
 
Either way, there are no buddies or friends when in biz for yourself. 

The three factors are absorption, transmission and reflection, all adding up to 100% of Tsol.
 
Tser is the factor that accounts for heat rejection since all EM energy from the sun, UV, NIR and VL, is considered responsible for heat (once it has struck and absorbed by an object).
 
What Tset does not account for is the FIR (heat) that radiates inward after NIR, UV & VL energy is absorbed by glass/film and subsequently converts to FIR. This can be a low amount with low absorption and high reflective glass/film or it can be a large amount with a low reflective and high absorptive glass/film.
 
You take these IR films that have extremely high absorption rates ... they tend to increase the amount radiating inward than a film with more of a balance between reflection and absorption or one with high reflection values. Tset does not account for this yet, Tser does.

The three factors are absorption, transmission and reflection, all adding up to 100% of Tsol.
 
Tser is the factor that accounts for heat rejection since all EM energy from the sun, UV, NIR and VL, is considered responsible for heat (once it has struck and absorbed by an object).
 
What Tset does not account for is the FIR (heat) that radiates inward after NIR, UV & VL energy is absorbed by glass/film and subsequently converts to FIR. This can be a low amount with low absorption and high reflective glass/film or it can be a large amount with a low reflective and high absorptive glass/film.
 
You take these IR films that have extremely high absorption rates ... they tend to increase the amount radiating inward than a film with more of a balance between reflection and absorption or one with high reflection values. Tset does not account for this yet, Tser does.

Testing isn't an overnight thing; it'll be months before results would be known. Sell away by golly because historically speaking slip agents are all over the board when it comes to installing films. This is the main reason the post made earlier was simply stating known fact about glycerin and not necessarily downing the slime. Can't since it mimics Baby shampoo (FilmOn is Baby Shampo without glycerin, thickeners and perfumes). Alternatively, Prell shampoo makes an excellent non-glycerin slip concentrate as well.

You mean the one that says, "Aww man can you do better than that" or your true to life buddy?
 
Either way, there are no buddies or friends when in biz for yourself. 

Be sure to ask the manny if they'll stand behind their product without the use of kevlar patched on the glass during live testing.
 
Simply too many variables and risks involved in such an endeavor; how far away from the glass, at what angle, what caliber of ballistics, how thick is the film used, how many layers of thick film, glass thickness, tempered or laminated. I do know it has been tested with a 9mm at an undisclosed location in VA by undisclosed group of people who, along with me, will never divulge the results, what film was used, the number of layers tested, distance or angle.
 
Sorry... variables can wipe away anything near a success. 
 
Like drugs, just say 'no'!

Companies have used bullet "resistant" to misrepresent what type of protection can be gained.  Like others have advised; be very, very careful.
 
Some companies have the resistance tested where they do the following:
-Use extra thick glass
-Add layers to both sides of the glass
-Add multiple layers of film
-Add multiple layers on both sides of the glass.
 
And yes, if you add 3 layers of 14 mil to both sides of the glass, you can get some results that look good.  But that is not realistic in 99% of the situations.

Be sure to ask the manny if they'll stand behind their product without the use of kevlar patched on the glass during live testing.
 
Simply too many variables and risks involved in such an endeavor; how far away from the glass, at what angle, what caliber of ballistics, how thick is the film used, how many layers of thick film, glass thickness, tempered or laminated. I do know it has been tested with a 9mm at an undisclosed location in VA by undisclosed group of people who, along with me, will never divulge the results, what film was used, the number of layers tested, distance or angle.
 
Sorry... variables can wipe away anything near a success. 
 
Like drugs, just say 'no'!

Be sure to ask the manny if they'll stand behind their product without the use of kevlar patched on the glass during live testing.
 
Simply too many variables and risks involved in such an endeavor; how far away from the glass, at what angle, what caliber of ballistics, how thick is the film used, how many layers of thick film, glass thickness, tempered or laminated. I do know it has been tested with a 9mm at an undisclosed location in VA by undisclosed group of people who, along with me, will never divulge the results, what film was used, the number of layers tested, distance or angle.
 
Sorry... variables can wipe away anything near a success. 
 
Like drugs, just say 'no'!

Go down to your nearest boat shop and buy some rope that is good at absorbing water. Get different thicknesses at or above 6-feet long. Use them to tuck into the bottom of the windshield with ends curving out for easy removal when done.

Go down to your nearest boat shop and buy some rope that is good at absorbing water. Get different thicknesses at or above 6-feet long. Use them to tuck into the bottom of the windshield with ends curving out for easy removal when done.

None... you get to be 60+ you bask in the silence and the ability to still hear after all those years of head-banging metal and rock and roll.

None... you get to be 60+ you bask in the silence and the ability to still hear after all those years of head-banging metal and rock and roll.

Perfect justification for meter use over the formula, eyeballing or guessing.

The formula doesn't account for how a film's color (spectrum) impacts results.
 
Back when NC passed their net 35 law I was a film sales rep for the state and it was noted how Centaur (PT) auto film would squeak by light meter devices while ATR failed even if they both had the same VLT going on the same VLT glass. Centaur was a more bluish looking smoked film.
 
Dealer in Burlington metered film from the box and marked the metered VLT on it label. He would have a minimum of five separate boxes of film of the same film product all with various VLTs. He would determine which to use by metering the glass, picking a sample thought to pass and place a small sample to the glass to gain a net reading. If it was off, he would look to another roll with either higher or lower VLT needed to pass.
 
All variables are not covered though, because you don't know battery charge strength of your meter compared to the one at the inspection station. And even then it has to be the same type meter with the same calibration variance confirmed.