mobiledynamics

Depends on the film. Global is about the hardest. I punish that film regularly with no issues. Expel comes in a close second.
 
Never liked using Suntek and the bottom end Llumar products that gets used on fleet preloads.
 
AWSF was notorious for scratching at the slightest touch.

Thx. My preferred shop was a Llumar dealer before he switched to Xpel.
 
I know there has been lotsa talk about 3M for the front WS and it's performance vs other brands if I recall when I brought up the LAH thing
 
It's been eon's since I've used 3M was I was never a fan of the coloration on them.
 

Well, I suppose TG got the stock glass measurements with one of the IR/uve  glass readers and such......now that I typed it out and thought more on my reply.
 
 

You have plenty of room to wrap the top headlight....lift the hood as there is plenty of surface to wrap.
 
Not a pro....just have last 5 cars fully wrapped and prior have had the front clip/headlights/sills done so I know PPF...
 
Scoring it...eh, I'll let the pro's chime is. It's all about muscle memory feel ......and the material is thick. 
IME it takes a skilled craftsman to know when to stretch, when to re-lief, etc as getting those corners to stick is an art in itself. FILM will shift over the course of 30-60 days so things that look like they are sticking may lift sometime during that period was the film moves a little bit...
 
If I was thinking long term, I'd still do the 2K and then wrap 
 
 

Off topic or on topic since windshields are being discussed. It is my own belief that even at dealerships, glass work in subbed out for the most part....
 
However, from what I've told, -some dealerships- do their own glass work in house....(although I suspect it's a limited percentage) vs subbing it out
 
For those in the Windshield biz know how......would you agree with bullet #1 (all glass is subbed out) or #2, where yes, you guys have seem some dealership do glass work in house.
 
It wouldn't not make sense to me to have tooling, consumable material, training, etc to do it in house but let me hear it...

Did you do any post mitigation as part of process - like 2K clear. Otherwise it will get oxidized again anyhow...
Film does help. However, it looks best when it's you remove the headlight, pull/stretch so that the corners are wrapped.
 
For my -eyes- , on the precuts, there will always be an edge....just depends how much you want to don't care to see it

All good. Glad the redo came out fine....
 
I know someone who had their front door redone 3X like you.
Leather Door Card Utterly damaged due to the presumably too much slip/liquid/etc ....
 
Decent Shop - just a most likely a new installer at the craft who should have not been working on a luxury vehicle
I guess since the installer get's paid per job....shop owner made the installer do the redo on the second and third pass
 
Shop ended up buying a new $2200 for a new door card

What quality of a job were you expecting for less than  buck and a half for a full job ?

It's like a red flag on the job price already
 
I get pricing is regional and this may not be inline with you local
 Rhe info below is what my market rate is
I believe fronts or windshield from my shop is $125 or $150.
It runs about $550-$750'ish for a all around..depending on which film
 
The potential cost for a redo could have been far worse.
Is the dashboard on yours wrapped in leather
Are the door cards full leather
Door cards can be replaced Easily
Dashes.....I would't want to keep mine if my dash ever had to come out for a repair.
Potential squeaks/rattles down the road 
 
Stem, water, chems to remove residual glue adhesive, potential scratch marks from knives cleaning glass or even just marring/scratchs on the A Pillar trim, etc...long laundry list goes on....
 
 
 
 
 
 

Got it
 
re: the road chemicals comment.
Funny you mention that. I don't believe the masses understand and it's more just detailing nerds. Even some detailing nerds may not get it. This stuff is --porous--. While it does make maintenance easier, it is very important to maintain some sort of product on it regardless...

No disagreement on -what the market will support, hence I stated it may be regional. You make a good point - that they want to remain competitive.
 
Suppose I was looking at it wrong. All 4 of the top shops I would trust with a - knife to score- are inline with each other own terms of the output of their work. The issue with with the other installer who prices himself in the same league as them in which he's a a lower grade shop......don't get me started as the things *customers* don't see. This shop being discussed has a boatload of high end supercars with all sorts with wraps in his marketing pics. I literally watch a tech d doing a  cutoff (grinder cutting metal aka, hot metal sparks and all that comes with cutting off metal) in the same open workspace with cars parked no less than 3 feet apart in direct vicinity of the shop. I was blown away and unfortunately for every customer car that was in their that wasn't aware of the environment their car was in.

There are people way smarter than me but I'll sling a guess out there that what you are experiencing is the difference between IR and R factors.  Window tint blocks(absorbs/reflects) UV and IR parts of the heat spectrum,  BUT window tint does not have an " R factor " like the pink stuff in your attic.  It takes mass to create an " R " factor.  
 
The shade is designed to reduce heat and also has the mass to create more of R factor in heat rejection and I am assuming that is the difference you are feeling.   

I would bet you're seeing low angle haze.  Ceramic films can be bad at this.  Don't know that it's worse with polarized glasses.

Just 3 for the fender. That's great - it would be much more - but pricing is regional IMO
 
1st time using a Pressure Washer ?
 
I know QuickConnects and the tension balls on them can be a bit tricky....but always do a test gun trigger pointing down whenever you are about to -spray-....
 
FWIW, they also make rubber hoods you can install as a extra safety . So it's 1/4 plug+orifice of size and the rubber shrouded hood .....this is what I have for my car wash PQ nozzles. 

Steam/Heat material well - and while you're removing is best. It's a new install so it should be fully -cured-.
Also, once you get a lift point on the film. don't remove by pulling the film -away- from you. Pull it -towards- you to lift and remove. Adhesive comes off better with film in this technique/direction.
 
The less glue = the less glue removal. That = less/minimizing mechanical contact/mechanical abrasion. Still probably will need a mild polish after a chem glue wipedown regardless.
 
So now you have PDR . How much is it going to cost you to redo the whole fender. Just curious

If you care about -OE- down the road, then the details do matter....only if you are a stickler for what was stock and whether it is -there-, if/when you choose to remove the PPF. The glue is pretty strong. While adhesion of paint is different on metal, the adhesion of the factory sticker -might- lift some when pulling pff. Especially since you are doing to apply heat- to the area to aid in removing the PPF (aka, glue), that same heat also is also going to be -heating- the factory vinyl.
 
May be a moot point if you don't care about the OE sticker though...as that can always be redone ..easy from a vinyl perspective

I was cleaning the cars, doing a dash wipedown. Between the leather, the slope before it meets the WS glass, and knowing there is going to electronics under the dash, I am second guessing the R&R from 70 to some thinking darker....I'm sure it can be done, but there is the -potential- for water damage on the dash or electronics, and or scraping, and potential leather damage right (presuming installers is super careful already beforehand). Maybe the risk is not worth it....
 
I realize what the issue is. Previous car had comfort windshield . So while the 70% ceramic blocks more, there is a slight noticeable difference in glare with the previous WS as a datapoint, versus the almost clear ceramic film.

I've never done the windshield until this year. Most/all have been 3 year flips. The last one maybe the last ICE car with a non -all out touchscreen with no buttons- console. The market in 2 years may be all touch. Yuck.
 
So I tinted the WS to protect the leather dash. Or at least try to minimize the heat when parked street side.
Regardless, heat soak is heat soak. The sunshade is still -quite hot- with 70 ceramic on it
 
I do notice the difference when driving though. Not in glare...but in overall less heat on the dash on hot days

I've never done the windshield until this year. Most/all have been 3 year flips. The last one maybe the last ICE car with a non -all out touchscreen with no buttons- console. The market in 2 years may be all touch. Yuck.
 
So I tinted the WS to protect the leather dash. Or at least try to minimize the heat when parked street side.
Regardless, heat soak is heat soak. The sunshade is still -quite hot- with 70 ceramic on it
 
I do notice the difference when driving though. Not in glare...but in overall less heat on the dash on hot days

Off topic or on - In the realm of some owners want thing's all OEM
 
If PPF applied in this fashion (ontop of paint + factory stripe). 
If, when the PPF is removed....not that I think about it, there is a good chance the factory stripe may -lift- with the PPF right ?
 
Just due the adhesion of paint is different than a sticker ontop of it. Then you add the adhesive of the PPF, then trying to keep the factory stripe may be MOOT ?

The precuts are just that. The software allows you to + - the pattern but it's really up to the installer to take the extra mile and fudge with it...a shop I know is one their 36th *revision* of their pattern tweaking for the Z06.
 
U don't want seams on a install - preferably- especially the hood since it's the main focal point.
If I was choosing it, I would do the full gloss film on the hood and then vinyl match ontop of the ppf where the factory stripes are - new vinyl strips would be 1/16+ wider than the stock strip so you know you are fully covering it
 
. The vinyl is like 5 times thinner than stealth PPF, so it would blend in better than the thicker stealth clear ontop, as well as it would mask it so it looks -seamless- due color coverage..

The precuts are just that. The software allows you to + - the pattern but it's really up to the installer to take the extra mile and fudge with it...a shop I know is one their 36th *revision* of their pattern tweaking for the Z06.
 
U don't want seams on a install - preferably- especially the hood since it's the main focal point.
If I was choosing it, I would do the full gloss film on the hood and then vinyl match ontop of the ppf where the factory stripes are - new vinyl strips would be 1/16+ wider than the stock strip so you know you are fully covering it
 
. The vinyl is like 5 times thinner than stealth PPF, so it would blend in better than the thicker stealth clear ontop, as well as it would mask it so it looks -seamless- due color coverage..

Off topic or on topic. Recently someone went to a reputable tint shop on his 130K plus new ride. The installer tinted it 3X. 1st redo and then a second redo. Between removal, or tinting or both....the leather door card (presuming not protected), it was so damaged *leather delam from card*, the shop owner ended up replacing the door card at $2300 for the new door card. I think MSRP was $2800
 
It's stories like these (cuts) or excessive slip, steam liquids, etc - kinda makes you weary sometimes on not the "shop" doing the work but ultimately the installer assigned to the task.
 
Even when f'ups happen and a repair is required (whether it be glass or upholstery), it's never the same as the same -stock- material that came on the car.
 
 
 

Off topic or on topic. Recently someone went to a reputable tint shop on his 130K plus new ride. The installer tinted it 3X. 1st redo and then a second redo. Between removal, or tinting or both....the leather door card (presuming not protected), it was so damaged *leather delam from card*, the shop owner ended up replacing the door card at $2300 for the new door card. I think MSRP was $2800
 
It's stories like these (cuts) or excessive slip, steam liquids, etc - kinda makes you weary sometimes on not the "shop" doing the work but ultimately the installer assigned to the task.
 
Even when f'ups happen and a repair is required (whether it be glass or upholstery), it's never the same as the same -stock- material that came on the car.
 
 
 

Since this is a recent thread on topic, I might as well ask. it's 2022...... is plot cutting considered a superior method over freehand cutting these days, and hand cut only for specific instances   when given both options? Plot cut for a shop = productivity but does freehand still produce a better finished product (albeit you need a skilled man using a blade). I know a decade back+++while plots existed, the POV was the freehand was always superior. 
 
Lotsa shops I know if not even my tinter is using plots these das
 
I know the plot cuts have tolerance you can + material but on the last few plot tint jobs I've had installed, I don't see them shaving to the edge and then doing the file...

We've gone full round circle on this😄. There is no value for the party who has paid to have it installed. For how I sell my vehicles, the party who has paid for a full wrap, said party is never going to recoup a cent of that towards the Selling of the vehicle on how I generally sell the cars.
 
As a seller, with a 9K Wrap on my vehicle, I will never get anything towards PPF on when selling to Dealer, Carmax, Carvana, Vroom, etc. In a private sale, yes, it may help but more often a used buyer will be looking for a car in particular color , trim, option, etc. PPF would be on the bottom of the tick box of things to choose when it came down to a particular chosen vehicle.