Midtown Houston

It take a 60".....We did 2 with 3M Crystalline and will no long do the back glass in 1 piece.  Shit it take us 3-4 hrs just to shape and install and we charge additional $200.  The 2 Model 3 back glass, we either took a lost or broke even do to 2-3 attempted before getting it right.

I had to redo 2 of the windshield twice to the ac just went off for no reason....hmmm....this shit is pissing me off...this model3 is a pain in the butt for windshield....i will give it one more shot..::it supposed to get easier the more we do.

All those mark have to be steam out....they usually happen when the film is stuck and squeezed over...but lift it up and steam and they are gone...

Warning....Warning... Tesla have issue a warning to some window film manufacturers. This was issue to 3M.....The computer is located below the A-Pillar and will get damage if liquid touch the pcu.  They have state that it cost them over 10k to replace for some Tesla owner. So be careful guys.... It is a design flaw that they will be changing due to this.

We have alway took the extra precautions when doing windshield and we have done 4 Model 3 and have been lucky....cross my finger.

We use to do full time work for 2 dealerships and got paid really really well due to both of them sold more Crystalline then our FX Premium.... One dealership lasted 2 yrs and the other 5yrs until they took it in-house. Now they only give us work when installer don’t show up, on vacation, back up, or difficult model...we take it but charge retail price and they are ok with it. I would recommend still keeping a relationship and telling the GM that you can do it but it have to be retail.

I wish we can buy 740 roll this year...I win that 3M trip for sure to Minnesota...

We have been awarded 🥇 3M Crystalline dealer of the year by  Chip Foose....The Legendary Car Designer and 3M Ambassador

18 hours ago, BlueRider said:

Thanks for everyone's comments.  It is a full wrap and I paid $3500.  I realize that is towards the lower end on pricing for a wrap, but not exactly bargain basement or anything.  He did use Suntek which I know is less expensive material than Xpel.  

You got a steal of a deal...I only know of entry level installer charging that kind of price...to redo the hood will cost him $300 plus in material and labor...You got what you paid for...

It is worth adding to your protection side of the business....We do mostly full front ppf with Ceramic Pro Coating on the whole vehicle.  Get ready to be a detailer and it cost alot of money to be a detailer. There are alot of equipment to buy in order to be a detailer. I would recommend Ceramic Pro, CQuart, Opti-Coat, & Fylab as the top coating brand. It is very profitable....the only down side is that it take 2-3 days for any traditional glass coating to cure. You either have to store the vehicle for the client for those days or they must store it in door.

This is how you remove the sweep for an 2018 Audi Q5.

- Get a ply tool and remove the panel right below and next to the door handle.  You must remove it first from the lock/unlock button.

- Pull the panel toward the front of the door to remove it....If you try to pull it out, it will break.

- There are 2 toque screw that need to be remove and you are done.

On 4/6/2018 at 1:24 PM, BlueRider said:

I wanted to get some other opinions on the PPF job I had done and find out if I'm being unreasonable.  It's a full wrap of a brand new Raptor that was done 3 months ago using Suntek Ultra.  I took it in for a tune up a couple of weeks ago to have some issues fixed.  The guy fixed some major bubbling and lifting problems, but there are still what I consider to be an excessive amount of defects in the film.  When I picked it up he kept telling me "it's not going to be perfect", but there's imperfect and then there's just unacceptable.  

 

The main problem is the dirt particles under the film that are causing bubbles.  I have tried pressing on some of them but I think the particles are just too big to ever let the film lay down over them.  Even if they did, the dirt is still there. I posted some photos below.  Except for the lines on the hood, all of the white spots you see are bubbles caused by dirt under the film.  This is just a small sampling- every single panel except the mirrors has multiple bubbles.  

 

I understand that there will always be flaws if you really look, and there are plenty of other flaws I can see (like stretch marks, waviness, cut lines that could be straighter, etc) that I'm not going to make a big deal about, but bubbles are way too obvious.  My position is that there should be zero bubbles in the film.  Do you think I'm being unreasonable about this?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

How much you paid and what did you get done??????  Then we can all reply with a comment....no one here can comment without knowing these 2 things.

Yuuup...not a easy hood....plotting that hood is the wrong way to go about it...bulk it ONLY

4 hours ago, Tintguy3 said:

Out of the 20k per month how much would you say is profit? and where do the expenses go to? 

5-8k because we are a company....10-12k if your a one man show but that probably the only acct a one man show can take on....

You never know...shop be might be higher when you visit...additional charge for plotter cut and darker shade...this industry is famous for doing this.

This is the best one...custom made by Dirty Mike 

350 dpi is what we convert it to...

2 hours ago, Speed said:

The last Ferrari I pulled paint on was a "gently used" F430 with 2800 track miles.   Acquired from out of state, the dealership asked me to remove the beat up film and sure enough a little of the clear came off above the windshield.  No big deal I figured, happens far too frequently on these things.  Well no big deal until the new manager called me in his office wanting $5000 for the  repaint and $30,000 diminished value.   Its not worth the risk as far as my business is concerned, anyone with enough coin to buy one of those things has a better lawyer than I do.

   

Ain't that the truth.....that is why term and agreement on your work order come into play....  We have  never lost a charge back over it...... Have repo 3 cars over charge back or non payment.... 

Super car are easier to wrk on than say a e65 amg.... window are super easy to tint too...The price stay the same weather you wrk on a 500k car or a 40k cars...same wrk just more expensive vehicle.

Looking to hire a window tinter for automotive and a ppf installer. We are a growing business looking for add to our team. 

Monday - Saturday work week. Base pay plus commission.
Paid vacation.
For more info, feel free to msg Mike or call/text 7135600669.
Or come by for a face to face interview.

5 hours ago, vladimirnn said:

I am from Est Europe, and I tint mostly Germans cars. But this car rear window it's a rial nightmare. You can't remove the headrest and the last 3 inches from the glass is untouchable, there is an electric blind. Who's did this know what I mean.

Remove the rear seat...the bottom just pop off and there 4 screws...take less then 5 min...

4 runner back glass

you going to get catch anyway....mind as well tell your boss that you want you are tint car after work and on your day off.  Being up front is the best advice I can give you.

Just order it...will give feed back of this 

This is the 2nd Model 3 we did....We charge additional $200 for back glass to do it in 1 single piece.  The first one took 3 try to get it right.  The 2nd one took 3 try.  It cost us about $100 per try in material.  Also...the sunroof is almost the same size as the windshield so we will be charging more for sunroof. We will no longer do the back glass in 1 piece .....the time it take is not worth it.  There is a defroster line that run across that back glass that will still look good if steam.  Hope this help you guy...