highplains

Man I cannot overstate how much I dislike the Obsidian line.

There are three films I have experience with on windshields that I would recommend for what you're looking for. I'd look for an Xpel dealer in your area and inquire about XR Black 70% and CS Black 88%. The XR is a ceramic and will block more heat and CS will be a less expensive option but one that still has respectable IR rejection. The third option I could recommend would be Express Classic Ceramic Blue 80 but my preference would still be to the Xpel.

I'm not familiar with that series of plotter, I run the FC8600-100 in my shop and honestly wouldn't waste my time with a smaller one. My personal thoughts are if your going to plan on hand cutting larger windows skip the plotter and hand cut everything. You're going to be paying for the software regardless, you might as well set yourself up to best utilize it. Really my best advice is to just start out hand cutting everything and forgo the expense of the plotter until you know you're going to stick with it, you'll need to know how to hand cut anyway so you might as well hone that skill to start with.

If you're planning to plotter cut tint yes. Most back glass patterns for sedans are going to require a 36" wide roll of film, some are going to require a 40" roll which is why I recommended the 42" models. There are very few rear windows you'll be able to one piece with a 20" roll and even some side windows, particularly Ford F-series pickups manufactured in the last 20 years immediately come to mind, that can't be done with a 20" roll. In my shop we have a 42" Graphtec and I exclusively stock 40" rolls of tint. Once you play with your cutting software and figure it out you'll be able to manipulate and arrange what you're cutting to best fit the size roll you're working with and minimize waste.

In that case a 42 will suit your needs.

If you're already doing vinyl as well I'd personally go with either a 60 or a 72, that way you have the ability to cut graphics and full PPF panels as well.

I had a customer bring me their new truck a couple weeks ago to match the front windows because when I quoted them out on the phone my entry level film was a little more than double the price they had been quoted by a shop in the next town over.

While I can't speak to ASWF in particular I can say that manufacturers are notoriously slow to update their websites. As long as you received the appropriate documentation, which it sounds like you did, and you're dealing with a reputable shop I wouldn't worry about it too much.

Agreed, I switched a few months ago and I'm loving it. Night and day difference between their films and the 3M I was using before.

Wise decision there. I'm not fond of roping glass to begin with and absolutely despised it every time I was forced to try and reuse the seal. Especially when the seal was available and inexpensive.

At least it's not German right?

I'm not sweating it in the slightest, it's all good

I got mine, it's a super cool shirt but I'm going to either have to send it back to you or pay it forward to whoever is next in line. Just way too small for me unfortunately.

That's awesome!

Or even more than that in some cases

I don't use the 30° ones but I do use the Olfa double honed black carbon blades for PPF and they are sharp as a

Cool

It's kind of a double edged sword there too in that there are times where I don't really have a response, or what I would respond with has already been said maybe even more than once and I'd like to hit the like/thanks button to acknowledge the post but don't feel like another post is going to add any value to the thread.

I'd hit the defroster lines with 0000 steel wool, you'll see them start to shine up as it cleans all the oxidation off them, just be careful not to go too far and don't use any steel wool other than 0000 or you'll scratch the glass. The tint should lay right down on them, having it on the bench will make it easier to get your film positioned before squeegeeing it out.

The best way to do that particular piece of glass is to remove it and tint it on the bench with all the hinges, strut mounts, latch, etc. removed. It's pretty easy and straightforward to remove, if you need help figuring out the lift struts look up lift strut replacement for that vehicle on YouTube, it's a lot easier to understand what you need to do when you can see vs reading it. From 97-04 the Infiniti Qx4, Nissan Pathfinder, and Honda Passport are basically the same vehicle.

Your link's dead. What year is it?

I'd say the film is grey with slight purplish brown undertones when viewed from the inside

it's got an odd appearance that's hard to describe. It sucks to work with too.