highplains

Hate it when that happens 

Hate it when that happens 

It's hard to say, you'd need to check with the shop. They may have cut you a deal since you were doing both at the same time, or they may have made a mistake and undercharged you. Regardless I wouldn't lose sleep over it. As far as the strip being done out of ceramic or non-ceramic again I wouldn't worry too much about it as it won't make a noticeable difference with the full windshield having been done in ceramic. 

It's hard to say, you'd need to check with the shop. They may have cut you a deal since you were doing both at the same time, or they may have made a mistake and undercharged you. Regardless I wouldn't lose sleep over it. As far as the strip being done out of ceramic or non-ceramic again I wouldn't worry too much about it as it won't make a noticeable difference with the full windshield having been done in ceramic. 

@Sunbreakers do you have any more pictures of your set up and the whole vehicle from the outside? That is seriously impressive! I really like that peel/cut board 

Oh boy, RnR time this week for some local hotrodders. Dang car had so much compression the starter would barley turn it. I don't know what was under the hood but it was angry. Neighbors came by to see wth I was working on after hearing it.
 

 
Yes, I still need to paint the shop...shhhh!

Or saline

Turbo Jag coupe yesterday. Aluminum skin that has been repainted so no glue pulling and minimal knockdown work since I was worried it could flake. Since I didn't know who painted it I didn't want to chance it. The recolor didn't look great going in so I proceeded with caution. Luckily I found an access hole behind the plastic door sill trim that I could get a thin, sharp, pick tool into. Texas Toothpick from Finesse if you're wondering. Awesome set, great for aluminum and general hail dents.

 

 
I got it pushed out to here in about 30min.
 
Then spent another 20min just pushing clean up. 
Happy customer!
 

Vette came in for back window only, no problem. Tahoe kicked my ass? Those quarters are massive, and the hair floating inside was a battle! 

Honestly, a lot of them look like residue not scratches. As mentioned, maybe tint was removed and the new tint shop did not properly clean the windows. If they are scratches, I highly doubt the shop had anything to do with it since those scratches don't make any sense from a tint installation perspective. I assume they were there already and just was not noticeable when the glass was clear but now stand out due to the black background. Lastly, brand new 2023 vehicles are not immaculate, so that 2019 is definitely not. May be super clean but impossible not to have flaws. We had a 2023 BMW M8 Competition ($140k+) in recently and blew his mind when we pointed a bunch of flaws. He would have swore it was perfect and blamed us if he noticed damage after the tint job.

I second the NT red dot and stainless blades. I do keep some of the 30degree blades on hand for my occasional vinyl work but I'd never use them for tint. Nothing wrong with an olfa, I just prefer the NT.

That's not accurate in reference to 3M CS. It's their mid tier film and a true carbon film with tser numbers that are fairly comparable to lulu ctx. At the time I dropped 3M for Xpel the price of it had risen to within a few dollars of what I was getting Xpel Ceramic for. 3M's entry level films are the Obsidian and FX lines and then they have another dirt cheap line that I can't remember the name of. 

Night and day difference. CS is a very thin film that burns or creases easily, CR can smear the adhesive between the layers if not heated properly. CR isn't a particularly thick film either, it's about average really. I'm not familiar with how their CIR compares since I dropped 3M a couple months before they finally released it. As far as 3M films that have the logo stamp they do that on Obsidian, Color Stable, Ceramic IR, and the Crystalline, however there have been documented instances in the past of that being copied on the fake CR film some have gotten in the past. As far as shrinking goes in general it really does come down to practice and experience. Don't rush it, especially as someone just looking to learn the trade, impatience is your enemy in this business. Shrink the film slowly and really pay attention to how it reacts to the heat and you'll learn to "read" the film, for lack of a better way to put it. Experiment with the distance and angle of your heat gun and how that effects the film as it's shrinking, eventually you'll develop the technique that's going to work best for you. Starting out you're going to waste a lot of film, it is what it is and part of paying your dues so to speak. You can get a shorter roll of film from express window films that's good quality and more affordable to learn on if you're serious about pursuing this. 

Night and day difference. CS is a very thin film that burns or creases easily, CR can smear the adhesive between the layers if not heated properly. CR isn't a particularly thick film either, it's about average really. I'm not familiar with how their CIR compares since I dropped 3M a couple months before they finally released it. As far as 3M films that have the logo stamp they do that on Obsidian, Color Stable, Ceramic IR, and the Crystalline, however there have been documented instances in the past of that being copied on the fake CR film some have gotten in the past. As far as shrinking goes in general it really does come down to practice and experience. Don't rush it, especially as someone just looking to learn the trade, impatience is your enemy in this business. Shrink the film slowly and really pay attention to how it reacts to the heat and you'll learn to "read" the film, for lack of a better way to put it. Experiment with the distance and angle of your heat gun and how that effects the film as it's shrinking, eventually you'll develop the technique that's going to work best for you. Starting out you're going to waste a lot of film, it is what it is and part of paying your dues so to speak. You can get a shorter roll of film from express window films that's good quality and more affordable to learn on if you're serious about pursuing this. 

Night and day difference. CS is a very thin film that burns or creases easily, CR can smear the adhesive between the layers if not heated properly. CR isn't a particularly thick film either, it's about average really. I'm not familiar with how their CIR compares since I dropped 3M a couple months before they finally released it. As far as 3M films that have the logo stamp they do that on Obsidian, Color Stable, Ceramic IR, and the Crystalline, however there have been documented instances in the past of that being copied on the fake CR film some have gotten in the past. As far as shrinking goes in general it really does come down to practice and experience. Don't rush it, especially as someone just looking to learn the trade, impatience is your enemy in this business. Shrink the film slowly and really pay attention to how it reacts to the heat and you'll learn to "read" the film, for lack of a better way to put it. Experiment with the distance and angle of your heat gun and how that effects the film as it's shrinking, eventually you'll develop the technique that's going to work best for you. Starting out you're going to waste a lot of film, it is what it is and part of paying your dues so to speak. You can get a shorter roll of film from express window films that's good quality and more affordable to learn on if you're serious about pursuing this. 

Night and day difference. CS is a very thin film that burns or creases easily, CR can smear the adhesive between the layers if not heated properly. CR isn't a particularly thick film either, it's about average really. I'm not familiar with how their CIR compares since I dropped 3M a couple months before they finally released it. As far as 3M films that have the logo stamp they do that on Obsidian, Color Stable, Ceramic IR, and the Crystalline, however there have been documented instances in the past of that being copied on the fake CR film some have gotten in the past. As far as shrinking goes in general it really does come down to practice and experience. Don't rush it, especially as someone just looking to learn the trade, impatience is your enemy in this business. Shrink the film slowly and really pay attention to how it reacts to the heat and you'll learn to "read" the film, for lack of a better way to put it. Experiment with the distance and angle of your heat gun and how that effects the film as it's shrinking, eventually you'll develop the technique that's going to work best for you. Starting out you're going to waste a lot of film, it is what it is and part of paying your dues so to speak. You can get a shorter roll of film from express window films that's good quality and more affordable to learn on if you're serious about pursuing this. 

Where did you manage to buy that? The reason I ask is because 3M has a limited distribution network and they're pretty protective of access to their films. If you picked it up off of Amazon or Ebay there's a 99% chance that it's counterfeit 

This was a marble table with crystal in lay. This was a sweet job! Eazy money!
200,000 table. 

Unlike Klingon though.
 
 

The front doors of this van have the XR Black 55 installed 

 
So does this windshield. It's worth noting that this vehicle has a fine layer of dust over the whole thing.

The front doors of this van have the XR Black 55 installed 

 
So does this windshield. It's worth noting that this vehicle has a fine layer of dust over the whole thing.

12 volt guy saved me the hassle with the door panels as he was was already in there. Agreed @highplains my favorite over the 300zx&Supra . Motors weird just Ls swap it if it gets to be too much hassle. 

That generation RX7 was a great looking car