Tint Slayer

I'd always been using the regular yellow turbo on the sides, but the regular green i got one day and have been liking it, it's somewhere between the black and the yellow in firmness. If you like the Fusion yellow turbo, you may also like their green for cleaning, it seems slightly firmer than the regular green. I use the blue little foot when running down the sides, but ask me again after i order tools, could totally change lol.
 

If this is the new light opaque blue one I have been using if for about a month or so and I really like it compared to the old blue max, it glides better and is way more durable

Go global you won't be sorry.

$3500 for the opportunity to buy shit film no thanks. 

I have never heard of that before, Suntek wouldn’t be my first choice but that is totally your decision. Depending on where you are located check out express window films or solar fx. Just my 2 cents

I use a 5” & 6” unger. I tried the crush for months and noticed slightly cleaner installs with the unger. I found this one the best to use since it take no of effort to use and you can change the blade out in seconds to a  new blade. 
 
I only use clear crush to drag on hatch bgs and I push with orange on other bgs. If you put to much pressure with the clear too much of the blade will make contact, which kind of smears instead of squeegeeing. Fusions handle can stiffen it up some. 
 
 
 

Brand new fusion wil irritate me a bit cleaning a door, after a couple days though they work well. I'm a 5 in yellow turbo guy for clean and first pass on doors. It's too tacky new to swipe my sides down so I use a blue tri edge x or my cut down orange/yellow lidco.  what's your beef with em  

I've never had luck with any Fusion squeegees, i wasted too much money trying them out and none of their squeegees were good for me, i don't get what's so great about them.
I've had good luck with the Green turbo for cleaning, and it's not the Fusion version of the green turbo.
If i'm not using the Green turbo i'll use the black Unger like you said. 

I’ve been tinting for about 24 years. I’ve used every sort of light there is(aside from the tubelights I’ve seen on here). I’ve finally found one that does the trick. It’s like a second sun when you turn it on. The base allows you to position it to shine up, down or level with the floor. Angling it up makes cutting around windshield mirrors/electronics much easier. 

It’s possible the board is dirty but I use distilled water. I keep my shop pretty clean though I feel like it’s something to do with the humidity causing squeegee to run right over trash.

torch is safer then heat guns.  this vid would be quicker switching to map gas and a TS8000 tip.   wider and hotter flame lets you back the torch up more while shrinking more.  2 or 4000 tips tend to burn film more,  leave those for the plumbers.
 
might attempt some new vids soon,  walking better now,  can handle couple hours out of bed.  couple years catch up on house and yard work talking a bit of my time.

I just have bottom loading a shot and i absolutely love it, gotta have lots of slip but I didn’t do to bad no creases or trash, got the new xpel EZTINT on its way. Thanks yall

Thats true if you it for some vehicles. I guess I feel the titan can do what the reach can. One tool I do like that I picked up recently is a blue and yellow quick foot. Great for tight bottom corners on bgs and I use it to shrink underneath spoilers. 

That’s about right lol

Slip tape does work to an extent as far as protecting the tint but its much harder to correct a crease or blemish with it. 
 
Personally I have like 20 easy reach tools in my inventory and like others said, sand them down until they get a deep gouge and then toss em. 

Thats actually pretty slow for using a torch on a flat bg. 

A good shop should still be able to provide a quality install. You can expect a spec of contamination here or there, it's never going to be perfect, but it shouldn't be significant. 

All of us know how long it takes.  At one point its obvious your’re cutting corners and quality suffers. I remove dealer work weekly and I can tell they dont press out any contamination dots to get it done quicker. Also see gaps so big thats it obviously theyre not heating the top edge before rolling the window up.  

Efficiency is one thing, quality is another. 
You say work more efficiently ?? I say worry more about quality and quit being greedy and have some respect for the industry and not just make money slinging piss poor work. 
 
If you won’t accept an application from a quality tinter that can produce work without comebacks only to be looking for how many he can push out, it seems to me you are more worried about the wrong side of things.  
 
A quality tinter who produces work that doesn’t come back, will be better than a 14 car a day inexperienced film slapper who only knows how to do one type of car.  Probably can’t hand cut a sliding rear window to save his life.  

He likely means 14 rear section only and does the same car all day. This is possible for sure

Say that was legit... almost 100 cars in a normal 8 hour day without lunch or breaks. 🤣

This is what runs through my head when i hear that
 

impressive is not the word-it's way beyond impressive.
i'm just trying to wrap my head around the thought of doing 14 cars on average a day-holy crap
14 hour day??  pulling cars in and out, cutting, cleaning, shrinking, applying. and no comebacks!!!!!  DAMN!!!!
hands down-best i've ever heard of
 
i've never wanted to meet a fellow tinter, but you, sir, are someone who i would like to meet and also learn from

"People don't quit jobs, they quit bosses" sounds like you won't be happy with the situation no matter what. If there's more money out there get it, that's your ultimate goal really, so find it there or elsewhere.

Agree with above
i heat a large area and first try to shrink it all as flat as possible by pulling the film and also spreading my fingers wide thru the fingers on the film while i heat making them smaller and flatter until all the film is a little bumpy but shaped to the glass but not totally flat yet. Then i spray water under the film and flatten it out then wet shrink it with a gold hard card and make it flat. (Wet shrink is shrinking with the water under it, some people regardless of whether they shrink with powder, dryer sheets, soap, etc, will still do a final wet shrink before install so they can see any potential imperfections or little fingers at the edges, if it lays flat and wet on the outside it will on the inside, and you can also do your final cuts for anything in the way like defroster contacts, etc).
Also, when people first start shrinking some focus on short robotic straight up and down strokes and just looking at the film while they shrink, after a while you get a little more artistic and focus on the shape of the glass and adjust your strokes and sweeping motions to conform to the shape of the glass. And take your time, my advice is never geared towards the 30 min full tint job, slow and steady wins the race.