ErieTint

Made this myself and put one in every car. Done deal, saw one very similar to it but was worded horribly and did not look professional at all so I put my touch on it and made this. 
 
i also inspect every vehicle for damage interior and exterior and for window defects and point every one on them out before accepting it. 

When we started with Llumar, we carried ATC/ATR/CTX/AIR.  ATR was our slowest seller since it doesn't perform well on the heat lamp.  We decided to drop it and place 3M CS in at that price point.  I do believe it is best to have a Good/Better/Best lineup, but making sure that the customer can see the reason to upgrade to it.  As for the AIR line, I would recommend stocking 80 and forget 90 or only order a 25' roll of it.  The performance on 90 is very low so most customers will go with 80 since it is also extremely clear, but a lot more performance.  We stock 15/20/30/35/50 in ATC, 15/30/35/40/50 in CTX, and AIR 80.  I originally was not going to stock 30, but it sells pretty well.  I only stock 40 because of North Carolina, but only offer it in CTX so they have to pay of they want to be legal there.

I am a LLumar dealer (I know, I know, $$$...) and really like the idea of the heat rejection in the ATR and CTX lines. However, I am not a fan of the potential issues with ATR, hence the Dyed and Ceramic pricing that I mentioned in my first post. Would it be worth my while to carry ATR instead of CTX? I know there is a huge price difference there but I don't want to have to order some CTX because one install that I did had an issue with one window and now I have a roll of CTX that I don't normally stock and will likely never finish. I would rather price it accordingly and stock Dyed and Ceramic and just skip the in between. I really like the idea of having an in use roll plus a spare roll of everything in stock and skipping over ATR and sticking to ATC and CTX would help that.
 
What do you guys stock normally for customers? Do you take special orders for VLTs that you don't stock? Do you up charge the customer if so because it isn't a stocked roll?
 
I ordered 50%, 35%, 15% and some Air 90 with my opening order. I just had to order some 5% for a job I did last night for a friend. Should have done more reading and tried to plan a little better before my first order. I am going to stock 20% in place of the 15% once I run through what I have now. Then there is a 15% step (50/35/20/5) between each offering with the exception of the Air 90. Helps my OCD as well. Haha!
 
Thanks again for all of the feedback everyone.

I'm a 3M dealer and carry their FX Premium and Color Stable lines. In FX I stock 5, 15, 25, and 35. In the CS I stock 20(15) and 35. I could easily drop the 25 in the FX line as it's my slowest seller but it's nice to have on hand for the customer that wants an in between shade. In the past I've handled special orders two ways, ordering a cut roll (and charging the extra cut fee from my distributor) so I wouldn't have to hang onto a bunch of extra or when that wasn't an option ordering a full roll and charging the customer for it at a lower markup rate. Both worked out well, you just have to be upfront about it: "this is a special order and as a result it's going to cost $x.xx"
 
 that is exactly why I charge the same for coupes and sedans. More often than not your actual glass sqft (material usage) is close to the same. Plus from a labor side they are more of a pain to install, especially if you're a big guy like me.

@ErieTint Sounds like every one has given you the advice I would have given you. I however do not charge less for 2 door coupes because the doors are longer And generally the back windows are longer and more sloped lending to more difficulty in tinting them. I would also advise you order the 20% in the ATC Series because there are some 2 door jobs that it will match up better to than the 15% ATC Series. I only carry the CTX Series, the ATC Series and Air 80 in the LLumar films. 

I charge the same for Sedans and Crew Cab trucks.  Also do Coupes and Extended Cab trucks same price.  Makes pricing a lot easier.  Coupes with large side 1/4s are priced the same as a Sedan.  Some dealers here price Sedan, Coupe & SUV the same. 

So my menu pricing is set up like this
  Fronts Only
 
  Regular Cab Pickups 
 
  Cars(both coupes and sedans) Ext & Crew Cab Trucks, Small Crossover SUV's like the Chevy Trax and Honda HR-V that have no cargo area windows
 
  Standard SUV's and Station Wagons
 
  XL SUV's and Vans
 
I have two different Eyebrow price sets depending on whether an eyebrow is being done on it's own or in conjunction with other windows.
 
I currently carry two film options, a standard dyed and a carbon. Depending on the application the markup between them is anywhere between 15% and 25% and is largely based on my market figuring about a 100 mile radius.

My goal when setting up pricing was to make it as simple as possible...this way we can easily quote the same amount.  This is how our structure looks...
 
Vehicles:
Coupe Sedan SUV/Truck/Wagon Van Front Doors We started with our Sedan price since that is the majority of work.  We originally did not have a Coupe price, but you do get those customers asking why is it the same price.  So we decided to offer a separate Coupe price...we simply subtracted $20 from the Sedan price.  To get the SUV/Truck/Wagon price, we added $20 from the Sedan price.  Now most shops charge less for trucks and breaks them down into Single/Double/Quad cabs.  Personally I that is too completed so we charge the same price for all 3 models especially since we do not know what still back window it is.  I look at it this way, some vehicles you lose a little due to bigger windows or longer installation time, while others like the truck you make extra on.  To this day, we have never had anyone question our pricing on trucks.  Vans are a little harder since there are so many different models and configurations so we usually quote them once we see it.  We dropped the front doors price a little lower to attract more of them to fill in any 30 minute gaps.  Since we generally upsell to Ceramic, we still get good money for them since that is usually what they select.
 
For customers that are doing partial tint like everything but the front doors or all side windows but no rear window...we take the normal price we charge for the window they are not doing, cut it in half and that is what we discount off the job.  So say you normally charge $200 for a Sedan, but they do not want to tint the rear window.  If you normally charge $100 for the rear window, we would cut that in half and discount the job by $50...making it $150.  If anyone asks why a small drop, we let them know you get a better price doing the whole package versus part of it.
 
Now for odd vehicles or older vehicles (we do anything older than 2000) we typically want to look at the vehicle to see the condition.
 
As far as your film markup, that sounds like a good setup...we are roughly the same.

I'm about the same as the rest of the guys here. Coupe and sedan are only 20 dollars difference for me. Trucks are the same as my coupe price for crew and extended cab. Regular cab is about 30 bucks less. Regular small SUV is the same as sedan and large SUV is about 50 bucks more. Imo the only thing I see is if you're selling ceramic that high you may need either A) something to bridge the gap or B) reduce the price some. Of course windshield strips and sunroof large and small. Also something to think is what is your per window sides and back. That'll help avoid hesitation on those weird requests. Hope this helps.
 
 

Just to keep anyone else from looking for info on this, these are basically the same as the previous generation with some slight differences.
 
No trim with fake allen heads to remove, those two bolts are now exposed under the door pull.
 
This one had power in the doors so I had to re-clip the panel at the bottom so I could leave it half attached. Probably could have removed it but I didn't unplug anything.
 
Otherwise they are simple. Nice and easy for a bottom load install.
 
Oh yea, and no shrink. Duh, its a Jeep...

Just to keep anyone else from looking for info on this, these are basically the same as the previous generation with some slight differences.
 
No trim with fake allen heads to remove, those two bolts are now exposed under the door pull.
 
This one had power in the doors so I had to re-clip the panel at the bottom so I could leave it half attached. Probably could have removed it but I didn't unplug anything.
 
Otherwise they are simple. Nice and easy for a bottom load install.
 
Oh yea, and no shrink. Duh, its a Jeep...

The speed is all relative. Where is the old triangle (Quality, Price, Speed) where you get two choices?
 
One of the three has to be missing...

I don't want to sounds like a jerk but I'm not sure how much help you will find here for that.
 
I would suggest calling a local car audio shop. Most of those guys have ways around factory ignition security especially if they install remote start systems.
 
Good luck!

Looks awesome!
 
I think we all hope to have the problem you're facing without the hardships along the way.
 
Good luck @TNTLady!

Yeah that's why I personally take out. Like cnc said you can probably do it without but that seems to make it easier going back in.
 

Screw in the pull and screw plus the filler on the back edge of the door panel @jh812?

Get them booked and they can be the first @ 9 am, The first @ 10 am, the first @ 1pm.....

I am currently working out of a heated storage unit with no bathroom or proper waiting area.
 
I have only had one customer ask to hang out and that was a personal friend.
 
He ended up running some errands with his ride and was only gone for about an hour while I did his truck so it was like half and half for him.
 
I am a fan of pulling the seals when I can and I wouldn't want the customer around for most of those.
 
Don't want anyone thinking that I'm breaking their car to pieces.

Snap shrink bottom on glass wall and don’t worry about about the top, it will install into place. Cheers

Clips are tight on the doors, no shrink, and it’s a 7mm behind the door handle.

Only shrink would be a full windshield. Easy money, don't over think it. Clips are super tight on doors though. 

Huge thanks to @GlassWithClass and @FondyTints for the instructions.
 
Did one of these this past weekend.
 
I'm new to the game so I tried three times and finally said to myself "I can't be the only one having this much trouble!" and came here for advice.
 
Once the tray was out, tinted it fine on the first try. Whew!
 
Learned a valuable lesson too, search the forum sooner.

Huge thanks to @GlassWithClass and @FondyTints for the instructions.
 
Did one of these this past weekend.
 
I'm new to the game so I tried three times and finally said to myself "I can't be the only one having this much trouble!" and came here for advice.
 
Once the tray was out, tinted it fine on the first try. Whew!
 
Learned a valuable lesson too, search the forum sooner.

I removed one of these the other day.
 
step 1: open trunk and unplug brake light and release seats to put them down
 
step 2: back deck clip removal
find the 3 rubber bump absorber buttons behind where the seat was and pull them out if possible or they may need to be turned out counterclockwise part of the way. (They are threaded)
 
Step 3: clip removal
behind the part of the seat that is remaining up when you have the seats down on the left and right side there are two more push clips or whatever they're called that need to be removed with a small panel tool or flat screwdriver. The center needs to be popped halfway out then the rest of the clip comes out. Try not to drop them or they will be lost behind the cushion and not worth the effort of getting back
 
step 4: side panel removal.
get your fingers behind the panels that are on each side of the back glass and pulling towards the center you will release two clips and when they come free you will begin to pull towards the front of the car while being careful to note how the bottom front comes apart from the back deck
 
step 5: removing back deck
there are 3 clips coming down from the back deck that come through the metal. These need to be squeezed by a pliers enough to be able to pull up on the back deck so the clips cannot reattach themselves and cause you to need to pinch them free again. So while punching each one pick up on the back deck and hold it up and away. Once these are free you will simply pull the deck towards the front of the car with enough strength to get it out. 
 
Replacement is is as easy as your recollection of how you removed it all
be careful for the cable that runs sideways along the top of the metal deck when putting the back deck in....it wants to snag one of the guide clips that holds it in right by the brake light area
 
now go TINT
 
Oh I just saw someone else left their instructions