pbalentine

Looking back I should of just got a few 100 ft rolls and just shrunk a bunch on a bg with average difficulty. Some key points to shrinking correctly are angle/distance of heat gun, how long you stay in each area and then shrinking toward the factory edge, especially in the corners. Also, need to anchor film not to high or low. Some bgs you may go a little higher or lower than center. I use my hand to hold the film for side anchor. I start shrinking in the corner for a couple seconds ‘then’ I pull film to anchor it as I shrink. If you anchor before your’re just pulling all the slack into one big pocket to shrink. I only do this on more difficult ones. 

Got one of the new spray masters a few weeks ago. Its just switches randomly from spray to a piss stream! God dam, everything is made like shit now and made to break!

It didnt fall apart? 

On 3/6/2020 at 5:42 AM, Sterling said:

That's a good deal on the CTX. Go with that

For prices that low I doubt you’d get either. Run for the hills. 

Bottom loading works great for front roll-ups, but some rears you’ll want to top with the seal out or panel off, especially the ones where the side seals stick out on both sides. 

Shitty Tesla

Good luck man!

One from last week with 35 & 18 CXP. 

Back tinting a lot of these. Trying to find that BS post from a guy claiming to tint 100’s showing pictures of Teslas lined up and some with cracks in glass. Now I realize that post was created to rank in search engines and scare others from tinting them. 
 

Tesla 3 is simple, any cracking in the glass is from body flex....tint away!!  

Anyone remove the seals? Theyre attached to the frame.

Dont be that tinter that takes pride in being fast. Most of them cut corners or are full or shiat. Seriously, how can you be that fast if you live on this forum?? Just a bunch or posers. 

If custy doesnt like it, then its needs to be replaced. I rarely get comebacks, but would never care to replace a window because I know that if it was right I would not be getting a call about it. 

That top edge looks like they should of scrubbed it. Also, if you see this after cleaning its from rolling the window up in the channel, picking up trash before final clean. 

For the foam on the sides of the bg, just heat it up and push it back with a hard card to create some room on sides. 

Does xpel actually make their own film?

I just order from suntek, since every tool is cheaper. 

16 hours ago, Felixbiel said:

I second and third what everyone has said. Great films but terrible customer service and they just don't seem to care that they suck.

Thats even worse that they know and dont care. I like who im with...no thanks!

I would clean out your sprayer too to eliminate that causing it. 

If the shop is dirty that gonna be hard to get it clean. For a clean install it starts with a clean, dust free shop and then where you peel has to be clean and of course the glass you’re installing on(surrounding panel & frame too). What squeegee are you using to clean??

I swear I cant get a blu max blade to go more than a week or so staying sharp and thats even after trimming the blade. I just got a blue go doctor. This thing glides way better than the blu max for cleaning. 

10 hours ago, jh812 said:

Why would you not remove the seal on the F-150? They literally pull right out. 

Ive pulled the seals before a few times, but can get these done the same just tucking. 

Thing with tucking is you just will get those few times they just pop up. Had this happen on a Maxima last week, which I usually pull. Spent like 10 minutes messing with fingers. Just pulled the for the rest. Im tucking the older Gen Silverado and newer F150s and it ends there. I actually like removing stuff and like installing rollups like an easy, stationary SUV window. 

Yeah sometimes I forget and tuck when it was best to bottom load. Tucking fails for me for once i spend more than 30 seconds dealing with anything.  Its been a great learning experience pulling stuff for the last few years and going back to see what could be tucked just as clean.  

Been pulling seals/panels on probably 90% of vehicle. I went back the last couple months tucking what could to see if it came out as clean. Id say barely any were as clean. You’re either dealing with fingers popping up, fixing imperfections, bottom contamination or all of the above. You cant say tucking is as clean as pulling panels/ seals unless you start pulling stuff on every vehicle. This lets you see that some of the installs you tucked werent as clean as you thought at the time. 

8 hours ago, gramma said:

Trunk only 10mm needs to remove. Where are you getting the extra screws from ? Door panels only top 2 screws need to come out and the seals pull right out. 

You’re right it is just one! I always just thought the 10 mm bolts behind two hatch light covers needed to be removed. I cant believe that thing is held on by one bolt. 

IPA, you ever dry shrink with a glove?? If you havnt, I would try it out.