pbalentine

 I knew this tool was useless, but just had to find out myself. Its hard to grip and I just dont see using it for anything. Obviously not designed by a tinter and is why its worthless. 

Thats actually pretty slow for using a torch on a flat bg. 

I sand down until it gets a deep scratch and toss it. 

Those wrangler fronts are a bottom load for me. I bottom load most fronts, but have been top loading lots of rear doors with seal or panel off.  Sometimes you gotta try both ways to find which is easier for you. 

All of us know how long it takes.  At one point its obvious your’re cutting corners and quality suffers. I remove dealer work weekly and I can tell they dont press out any contamination dots to get it done quicker. Also see gaps so big thats it obviously theyre not heating the top edge before rolling the window up.  

First lose the h pattern.  Its not needed, just do a line across the middle. Also, sometimes you wanna move the line up or down to lessen film to shrink in that area. Stick with the glove and use soap to dry shrink. 

For the corners, shrink exactly toward factory edge.

1 hour ago, Blackwolftinting said:

I pass on that car. Too many glass cracking issues for me to even want to deal with it. Plus I don’t carry 60” rolls of auto film. I’m more than happy to refer a different company for that car and let them take the chance of cracking the BG. 

Last 3-4 customers for these were aware of the breakage. The ones I did I just two pieces the bg two inches above the middle defroster line where you couldnt see the seam.  The 3m dealer here prices high to avoid one piecing them(extra $350). 

Rear 1/4 windows:

Rear 1/4s I found easiest to reverse roll them. First, remove interior hatch cover, so you can sit in hatch area for installation.  To clean its best to flush real good, since its an impossible bitch to clean. Reverse roll film from front of vehicle to the rear.  

Side swiper/stroke doctor work good on these. 

Im glad I chose to not tint that big ass bg anymore. I still charge the same without tinting the bg though. 

Did a 17’ F Pace. For the rear doors I didnt see any torx at edge, but was able to just pop it to remove seal. 

For the BG I took off the wiper blade (10mm).  Just slide the piece of film up as high as you can.  When shrinking the last couple inches along the top I used a Blue Quick foot to smooth.  Trim everything but the top, pop hatch and lay film in with liner still on, tack it and mark the top edge with sharpie, then trim it. Then its ready to install. 

Some just have thicker lines. I can tell right away by feeling with a finger nail. When they’re really thick, hitting with steel wool just wont do it for me. Last week I did a 16 300 and used 000 steel, followed by lightly sanded the sides (about 5 inches) with 2000 grit. None. 

BTW that Charger BG looks good.  

As mentioned don’t put a bunch of water along side before squeegeeing window. Also, squeegee window just once time. If you need to squeegee twice, you’re not cleaning right. 

Got this last year and love it.  Its 1000 lumens I think.

12 hours ago, florida tinter said:

Tesla windows are defective from the get go....they need a better window supplier 

Yep, a lot of people that own these know too and are ok without having the bg done. I had one customer said he was heard if the issue and didnt want to waste money retinting the bg if it cracks. 

Door Panel Removal

Front/Rear - T30 under top trim, T30 behind door handle cover (pry from top corners)

Door Panel Removal

Front/Rear - 2 T25 under large cover thats below handle, T25 in middle/bottom of panel

Door Panel Removal 

Front - T25 under door lock cover, T25 in middle/bottom of panel, T25 bottom edge

Rear - T25 under speaker cover, T25 under door lock cover

I never been in any FB group, but have seen the negative comments in tint related videos. People putting others down, saying they dont know what theyre doing?? I wonder who knows what theyre doing, the guy making a video or some troll hiding behind a computer??

10 hours ago, CaliTINT said:

I tried green, now on orange. Not sure which I like better. 

Thinking about trying the orange. I need more slip for bottom loading in hot summer months. Just dont want to waste money on a big bottle of it. 

Glad your’re back. Ive been wondering where you’ve been, since your last activity was right before the new year.  I thought you went on some new year bender!🍺

Centimeter size gap?? Looks closer to an inch. I wonder if the sun blazing through that gap brought it to his attention. 

 I actually want to give one a try. Just gonna do which ever way is quicker, cleaner and less aggravating. I picked up up a quick foot and shuttle recently. The shuttle is already in a box and the quick foot I may use every once in a while. 

Been tucking more when i can lately. Saves time and the install is just as clean. Kind of missed the challenge of tucking too. IMO theres more skill in tucking than bottom loading. Also, been top loading with seal out for some rear rollups, which is easier for me than bottom loading.  

On 4/20/2019 at 6:24 PM, Long027 said:

Customer wants full windsheild 35% plus a 5% sun strip. Is that possible?

After educating the customer on the film specs of a lighter film, I can usually talk them out of it. Same goes for customers wanting 5% film, which I rarely do. 

The bg is a pain. Just a bunch of peanuts and the bottom edge kept coming away in middle. This one is going on my do not tint list. The shrink takes forever too...Just not worth my f’ing time!