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Posts posted by WearTheFoxHat
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Have a great day out there
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https://www.reddit.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop/comments/bac9be/diy_home_wrap_job_half_way_done_in_this_picture/
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Nice job of the reporter googling and copy pasting what a squeegee is !
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We never quote "square foot pricing"
We ALWAYS quote time and material for the install and add project related expenses.
We cannot do the math for you as we do not know how slow(or fast) you install.
Is access equipment rental needed?
What about travel / lodging expenses....??
Are you flying, driving or walking to the site? Is a hotel stay required? You need to allow for the client to pay some part or all of this.
Have you thought about what profit margin you expect?
If a client sent me a list like that I'd ask for elevation drawings and floor plans and if its already built I want photos of the site conditions.
Being able to reach the glass standing on the floor is one thing. If this is a curtainwall with the glass stacked it is a very different cost in time.
Some sites often have furniture /store displays and other crap in front of the glass. Its not your responsibility to move it but accommodations to work with occupants need to be scheduled.
Is this during regular or after hours?
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Bubbling happens most often when removing premask too early or a bit too much slip in your slip slowing the bond to the glass.
The wait for the film to bond to the glass better than the film to premask bond is the hardest part to learn. SOOOO glad for smart phones now!!!
When I would do a one off I'd often wait 10-15 or more mins before a test tug on the premask to see how its sticking.
3M has at multiple levels of tack in their premask offerings. SCPM -3 (low) SCPM -2(medium) and SCPM 53 (high) There is also SCPM 44x also a medium tack .
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EVERY time it snows I see multiple ASSHATs like this or similar.
Did not know until today there was a Jessica's Law. We need that one here!!
Story below. It looks like there are multiple "Jessica's Laws"
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Not sure what premask you are using.
One of the reasons the centers "float away " or get places they do not belong can be a combo of light tack premask or simply taking to long to lock them to the glass.
When they get wet they want to let go of the premask.
With "itty bittys" we will often would use a higher tack premask on a large panel with partial graphic like what you are describing.
If you are hesitant yes use 2 men for the install.
In any case be quick with targeting and lock down the cut area first taking care at the edges of the premask . ( the step to no premask can hold slip if you don't work perpendicular to the edges) then work above the cut area with wider and wider horizontal passes with hard card with the intention of keeping any slip above the cut area from getting down to the "logo" or text.
Our guys use the 6" Silver Lidco hard card for anything premasked then use any favorite 6" slip removal squeegee for the rest.
I should add that it takes some experience to learn how long to wait for premask removal afterwards.
Too much slip in your slip or too short a wait can result in pulling itty bittys away and losing them.
This can result in learning through necessity to hand cut by tracing replica itty bittys on the liner which hopefully is still clean and you have scraps.
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Sound familiar I think Mike posted it
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Shave everything and install NEKKID
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Puckered Butt can relax now huh lol
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Stop what you are doing and call client right away and ask how long ago the stone hit the glass...
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Happy Trails Bill !
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Thats Purty
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On 12/31/2018 at 11:22 AM, gimpy said:
What is wrong with cutting out of the box?
I use a standard Olfa blade for 2 mil and a 4" scraper blade for 6 mil+. Width plus 1".
I rarely attempt to cut the width perfectly as truly square window frames are uncommon.
Also widths can vary from window to window by 1/4 to 1/8.
Once you know how to cut corners properly, edge cutting is easy.
Tons of guys use variations of the blade through the box method and it works .
I used the 1" olfa handle with black carbon blades in it.
I cannot locate a photo of the awesome purple heart worthy photo of a former installers leg with a 12"ish gash down his leg at the knee from when he "lost balance " getting up from a prolonged pull session when he had used only the blade without a handle.
If you are gonna pull outta the box FFS cover the effing blade protruding out of the box and keep the box in an area where it is not in a traveled area.
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You found an inexperienced tint guy.
As noted by many others the damage was 100% by the person who cut the film on on the glass .Send the installer a link to Tintdude.
He can learn things here ......like how to avoid cutting directly on the glass.......
Contamination issue
in Window Tinting - General Discussion
Posted
Are you using a different sprayer for the different slip?