Bham

Hard to tell how bad it is from a zoomed in picture. Doesn't look that bad although it is a defect. It is rather difficult(not impossible) to get that huge piece of film installed across the rear glass and it be spotless. Dust, debris, carpet fibers etc, all these things are in play when trying to get a statically charged piece of film in there correctly. That being said, it really depends on the size and location of that defect, and how much it bothers you. It is probably not going to get any worse over time and on the next install there could be a different issue than this one. The 100% perfect tint job is rare. There is going to be a speck or two here or there especially if you are looking really close. 1 = step back a couple of feet from the vehicle. Is it still very noticeable? 2 = is it in your vision from inside the car? Does it bother you while driving? If yes to these, then it might be worth redoing. If no, then you are probably going to okay with an acceptable install for a long time. All in all, it really depends on how bad the spot is and how bad it bothers you. If the shop will work with you on redoing it if it bothers you that bad, all the better for you. Good luck.

You are correct for stopping by here,, sorry about the rudeness. Happens with tinters sometimes If you can't feel those marks in any way (not scratches or abrasions) then it's probably not your fault. Also the fact they are only visible at certain angles and times of lighting,, then it's probably in the film or in-between the film and glass. Edited to say = Please don't go back expecting to get a full refund because of that defect. You are as much at fault as the tinter for not taking back sooner. After this long it must not "really" bother you, so I would at least try to meet him half way, IF he decided to work with you on it. Good luck.

That should be redone. Pretty sure that won't ever go away . Hard to tell which part of the process that is being caused by, but it's either ghost marks from improper shrinking techniques. Or it's from a slip solution issue on the install side. Either way it needs to be redone and more care taken during install.

Three has pretty much been my limit, unless I knew I was getting close. It's not that I can't do a C6 it's just that day was just not my day. We all have those, especially on cars like that. As a solo person, I can't risk wasting too much product at any time and there is no one to hand it off to, so I have to be smart. If I had an employee who burned up all my product on one vehicle and then had to not be able to do the following appointments until new film came in, well,,,,, I wouldn't have that employee anymore. At what point do you put your job on the line to "be the man". I've been "the man" before, it's overrated Too old for ego chest bumping these days.

Such an awesome car and color.

What is your magic number on difficult installs? What is the number of times you will attempt a difficult install before you are upside down in it and are losing money? Had a C6 the other day that was dealing me fits. Attempted the back glass 3 times and had to call it quits. I still wasn't sure the 4th time was going to work and I had other appointments for the day that had to be done. So I had to make the decision to stop and not do that vehicle. At some point, even if you complete the install, you have to realize that you are not making money on that install. So when do you call it quits to keep from burning up all your product and future profits on one vehicle?

Low angle haze will happen with any line of film. It is a side effect of adding the ceramic layer for performance. Out of the ones you listed I would go with the Xpel, can't speak for the Solarguard but they are more reputable than ASWF as far as I know. Please stay away from any ASWF films unless you only want it to last a couple of years at best.

It can yes, if it removes enough of the lines off of the glass when being peeled. At that point the defroster is not likely to work. If the defroster lines are hit with a razor blade, they will not work and can rarely be repaired properly.

Another fun one. Not bad at all really.

Been doing Toyota's a long time and specifically remember around that time, yes, the defroster lines were a lot thicker than normal. Also worth noting, not long after that, a few years later, the defroster lines on Camry's and Corolla's starting coming off during cleaning, before install. So there's that.

If you are referring to the blueish fade that they used to put on the top 6" of the windshield, I do not think there is any aftermarket film made like this. I could be wrong but I don't think they make this in automotive quality film.

None actually. Weird but there wasn't any in the way. Don't think it's correct that way but that's how it was. The quarter windows had nothing at the bottom so it was like bottom loading a frameless glass. Rear glass didn't have anything in the way. Strange.

Came out great. Super happy with this one.

Ummm. Yeah.

And then when you call Tesla to try to get the camera,,,, " IF " you get someone, they'll just tell you to buy a new car. Disposable pieces of

The easy (and nice) answer is = Rayno is not a proven film that already has issues. 3M is a stable, proven product with a good reputation.

Imagine that. Probably smart on his part,,, plus Jeff was just on here, sooooo.

I'll be the first to say it......... You mind sharing that list??

Who makes the whiteboard film? please.

Nice,,, Thank you @Roach I can tell you that the paint is just like anything else involving paint. If not prepped properly and and not enough coats used (not rushing between coats), then it doesn't work or last. Now if you do it right, it can work rather well. One coat on an improper surface with the paint stuff just doesn't work out.

I would like to know the same for the "white board film". What all can it be applied to? Is it glass only ?

Don't get in a hurry = with your work OR wanting to do it for a living. Get good before you get deep. In the area that you are in, there are many quality shop already established with good tinters. That's gonna be tough to complete with, so know that before you get started. Make sure you do quality work with quality tint. Even if it's your first few jobs and you have to redo windows to get them to come out right. Don't let a window leave if you know it's not up to par. If it needs to be fixed before delivery do so, and if there is something after delivery, fix that also. This is all part of the job and part of making yourself a good quality tinter with a good name for yourself. Letting bad work leave and not standing behind your work will get you gone quickly. Those other guys already know this and will eat you alive if you continually do poor quality installs. Good Luck.

Let's play a little game called "Oh,, By the way" Things you need to know that the customer fails to tell you. Try to keep it tint related and please, Keep it clean and have fun. started this because of one I had today and thought we all could have a little fun with this. I'll start with, Got and early 2000 S-10 in today. Oh, BTW = The drivers window has film that needs removing. We tried to clean the passenger window but left glue around the top edge so the window is glued to the rubber. " " = The rear window has film on it that needs to be removed, but I'm gonna act like I didn't realize that. " " = The plastic is brittle so you can't open the extended cab wing windows to do them properly. Grrrr,,, Okay guys,, your turn. Keep it going. Have some fun with this.

The hard one. But that 7.0 will GO!!!

If you want to do this, it's on you and would probably help for a better install yes. BUT!!! you have to make sure all the window switches are still there and working otherwise there is no need to do this.