Bham

Again sorry, still confused. How could this add more time? It's still the same piece of glass ( i.e. = it's still the same process no matter which type of glass ). Is surface B (inside surface) different ? This just doesn't sound right to me unless I am missing something obvious.

Pardon me for being dumb, but why is this, or what makes it harder? What exactly do you mean by double glazed? Are you talking about the new door glass with the laminate in-between the two pieces of glass? If so, how does this make it harder than a single pane window? Again, sorry for the dumb questions but that makes no difference on the other vehicles like Dodge and Ford that have these laminated pieces of glass on the front doors.

Even after doing this for 30years I still don't guess at what shade film is. I always use a meter. That being said, you also will not be able to tell exactly what the percentage is with just your eyes. Especially with tint on top of factory tint. The other part of your problem is that 25% is an odd number for tint and film off the roll can vary quite a few percentage points from what you are being told it is. Factory glass also varies, so all these things make your math question,,, questionable because you don't have all the proper information. If it bothers you that bad, stop by a shop and ask them to put a meter on it.

The main problem with your situation is the yellow glass on the front doors. No way to fight that. Sorry. Finding tint to match the rear is not an issue, but when you add to the yellow front doors, any film is gonna look different after install.

I was thinking that but just didn't say it. That sh!t get stuck in ever E thing = teeth, fingernails.

Audi Rs6 - 20%

Straight Line - Go Fast Car = now faster This is a custom LS Turbo doing mid 5's in the1/8th.

I've been playing with the lighter shade of Luxe headlight film and it seems to be a good shade. As far as the Eyesite system, that is in the windshield and is a radar type system. Only way to mess with it would be to cover the lenses in some way that are on the top of the windshield.

You could possibly be not shrinking enough but I'm gonna go with the second half of Smookee's comment, and say it's the way you are installing the piece. It sound like you are squeegeeing it down wrong and creating the fingers.

Man that sucks. You got hit by a bad installer with improper training or supervision, in too big of hurry. Probably jacked up on Mnt. Dew.

Yeah, if he shrunk those windows on the car, above the seals... then I was wrong and it was from the debris and the hard card. Sorry.

I guess if there were sand and grit there when he was carding with a rigid card,, maybe? I've seen ice scrapers to some pretty bad damage.

I still thinks it's from debris, but either way, I don't think a tinter did that with any hard card; even if he did shrink on the car. It's hard to scratch glass that bad.

These scratches were done by sand or dirt being in the sweeps on the outside of the window before it was rolled down. The bottom of the window(where the window is the most curved and tightest against the sweep) will release a little from the sweep as it goes down, which is why the scratches are not that long. The debris moves out of the way as the window goes down. I am willing to bet there are full length lighter scratches also. Not sure where you live but if it is coastal or northern with the possibility of sand being in the environment, then that would be your culprit. Also, the reason you can now see them better is because you tinted the windows. Exterior scratches and pings will show up more after tint.

VW's are "harder" than most due to the felt and lack of room past the matrix,,,and the Golf is no walk in the park,, BUT, that is an unacceptable install for sure. More prep and precaution steps needed to take care of that. Also,,,,,,,, That Zipper

From the looks of that picture and the other prep picture, you are using way too much dryer sheet or DSP residue. It doesn't have to be a thick layer of residue to work, it only need to be a thin layer. Too much residue can actually cause shrinking problems. Unless you lifted that piece before that picture, It looks you are really over shrinking and not pressing or carding hard enough, in my opinion according to pic above. Just my two cents from a computer screen

It's not to much film on the sides, but that you are shrinking to much film on the sides. You can leave the sides, but you must push all the fingers to the top and work them out that way. From one of those pics, it's obvious that you are trying to shrink the sides to much. Film doesn't shrink that way and once you do, it's hard to come back from it, hence the reason you can't the top correct.

Hard to describe / easier to show. You are being too aggressive with your shrink and need to pre shrink certain parts of the fingers before planting them with a card. Film will only shrink so much then it gives up. You need to leave more at the top so you can lift and pull while shrinking, so that the fingers aren't as tough to deal with.

My schedule stays at least a week or better out. I know what's on each day so I do my best to make each day "even" as far as difficulty. Saturdays are always the easiest days. Hopefully only trucks or super easy cars on Saturdays. Once you get a good rhythm down of how you want to schedule things, it gets easier as you go. Been 100% by myself for a long time and am doing well over 100K a year without killing myself.

This,,, this is what I am currently doing and it's about to kill me. I would love to hire someone but training is so expensive on the backend and they usually leave after a year anyway. Finding an experienced tinter who is honest and not methed out and won't rob you blind is hard. The ones who are good are usually happy where they are and don't ever leave,,,,, the ones that jump from shop to shop are tough to tell and you just hope you don't get one of those. edited to say that I only do 3 cars a day and some sets of doors every day. 4 cars is tough unless they are easy. :tired

Whole car is easy, just tight for a tall feller. There is A LOT of suede on the doors and the whole hat rack is suede. I put a piece of scrap film cut to fit the hat rack before I started. The C-pillars will still get wet as well as the edges of the hat rack,,, but it will be okay if you go ahead and dry it off mostly with a microfiber.

Might have drooled on this one.

The new Genesis G70 Great looking car and a piece of cake to tint.

If you find a reputable shop that is installing a quality product, temperature won't matter unless it is below freezing and going to stay there.

I would have to agree with @Ryker , something seems a little off with those numbers. I install QDP40% all day and 30% is the lowest number I get on most any type of manufacturer. The 4Runners with the yellow(kaki) color windows sometimes meter 29% with 40% film. VW's have that bluish glass but it still doesn't meter illegal with 40%.