Bham

If you try to precut to fit before shrinking, there is NO room for error. Most errors come at the end of the shrink not the beginning(i.e. = where the edge of your pattern is has the most room for mistakes). Most cars leave enough room around the edges to be able to shift the pattern if there is a mistake at the end of the shrink. Not possible if you precut before you shrink.

Absolutely love this little ride. RDX A-spec awd/turbo

Ghosting can technically happen with any film. If you had Global Ceramic installed and the installer used a torch then yes, ghosting can happen. Overstressing the film with to much heat instead of using a less intense shrink method can cause this. I use Global daily and don't have ghost issues and if I do they aren't bad enough for anyone to complain. As for your vehicle. Difficulty is partly on the experience of the installer. That is not that difficult of an install, in my opinion. My other opinion is that the installer was trying to shrink to much to fast and over stressed the film.

That is what is called "ghosting" or ghost marks, from the heat gun or torch when shrinking the film to fit the glass. When we use heat to manipulate the film and make it fit the windows, some films leave these marks due to the heat changing the structure of the film slightly. Cheaper films and ceramic films tend to have this issue. Honestly unless your windows are always foggy it really shouldn't bother you otherwise. (unless you focus on it because you know it there).

'38 Ford Coupe

You can't win against physics. There is no exact solution for this problem. As far as the lights on the windows at night, this will work to an extent if they are really bright and pointing directly at the windows. Duplicating what the sun does is going to be tough at night. This will also affect the the interior view and the amount of light will be noticeable. The darker the film (i.e. a 5% silver) will be the most effective but the darker you go the harder it will still be to see out of at night. Good luck.

I can't believe none of y'all have complained about this yet New Ford Ranger rear headrests don't come out. Rear seat doesn't move and the post are too long to force them out.

Absolute blast from the past from the past on this one. Pun intended. I really enjoyed working on this one.

2013 Escalade with the funny little camera attached to the heavy rearview mirror.

Well, I "was" finishing up this Cadillac Escalade windshield and right at the end trying to get just barely behind the stupid camera thing that sticks down off the rearview mirror. (I did try to remove the set screw first and it seemed like it was glued to the mount so I cut around the matrix to get install done)

Look man, I'm gonna be honest here. It looks like you have an experienced excuse guy and a not so experienced tint guy. I read your post all the way through before I looked at pics and that is not what I expected to see. In my opinion that is an awful lot of "weld splatter", unless that vehicle has been in a bodyshop for major repairs on the rear hatch. I personally think that entire install could be quite a bit better and that rear glass seems to be just plain inexperience. There is no way to tell about that rear glass unless you pull the film and check the glass when it is completely clean.

Nope sorry. A little to worried about it. so, Haven't messed with one yet to see if it goes bonkers when you tint the whole windshield or not. Also passing on all the new Ram windshields because of the Push-to-start issues.

Prayers going out to all of our Australian brethren whether you tint windows or not, WE ARE ALL PRAYING FOR YOU. The world of freedom as we know it is falling apart and the good people of Australia are fighting back. The news and footage of the clashes between police and the public is absolutely shocking and ridiculous. Hang in there people. Fight hard. The world is watching. Just want you all to know we are praying for you.

This is a rather old thread. Not justifying, just sayin. Also have to point out the fact you call yourself HotGirl but complain about someone wanting just that. Again, just saying.

Or maybe they could just learn what the actual benefits of ceramic films are and what they actually do. Ceramic film is not magic. It does not keep the car magically cooler. Ceramic film is for what YOU feel from the suns heat. There are many reasons we feel heat from the sun, but ceramic films block more of the spectrum of that heat that we FEEL ON OUR SKIN. If our skin was not involved the "IR" part of the reason ceramic film works would not be a factor. That being said, ceramic films block more of the infrared spectrum of the suns heat so that YOU feel more comfortable BEHIND the film. i.e. = when the sun is coming through that particular piece of glass with ceramic film on it, you will feel more comfortable behind that film. It's like being in direct sunlight then being in a little bit of shade, you will still get hot, just "not as hot" because you are in the shade. Cheers.

Completely agree @Diablo's Tint I quoted $800 for a basic 12 passenger Econoline simply because they wanted a last minute appointment. Is that too much for regular film on that vehicle, well yeah, but, If they choose to pay that, so be it. Am I wrong for doing that, hell no.

Not at the moment. Sorry.

Just know that PPF adhesive, just like window tint adhesive does not cure properly or work well with plastic. PPF on paint is different which is why you see it for interior parts. Parts that are painted. Clear screen covers such as heads up displays (HUD) and climate controls are a big no if they are not truly glass. Most in dash HUD are not. PPF will adhere properly to glass, painted metal and non porous stone. Clarity on glass is questionable, of course.

You probably won't find those patters because PPF is not designed for that type of install. The adhesive is not designed to work with a screen and will most likely destroy the screen if ever removed. If the adhesive were to cure wrong or if the piece needed to be fixed, it could not be removed without destroying the screen. Most climate controls are also not glass, but a plastic of some sort and PPF adhesive does not do well with plastic at all. This is not a recommended install in my opinion.

An extensive Ozone treatment with an ozone machine would take care of your problem.

This is odd question and I am sorry that has happened to you and your dogs. That really sucks man. As for the chlorine, I would think this would not be good for the tint, but at the same time I really don't know. Ammonia vapors and gas are what we use to start the removal and to cause immediate failure to the adhesives in the film. It's not actually the liquid that does anything but the vapors and gas permeating the film to get to the adhesives. Chlorine gas being way stronger than ammonia and more fatal to you, I would think this might cause failure of the film. That nick in the back glass has nothing to do with whether the chlorine will hurt the film or not. That gas will go through the film with no problems. That failure might not happen immediately, then again it might, but I really don't see the tint surviving that type of onslaught. But again, I really don't know the proper answer because I have never used something like that, am not real familiar with chorine gas or bombs, so all this is purely speculation from my knowledge. I would look into some sort of fogger system or treatment also. Good luck

The two-stage install = roll the window down a couple of inches, install half the piece of film, roll up window, tuck the bottom and finish the rest of the install. Standard old school install. The OP is having issues with the amount of space at the mirror part of the front doors. Door panel is pretty high and that upright side of the window is very short, making it difficult to install in two steps. Pulling the panel and doing like an unframed glass is easiest but those panels are pita to deal with. I just did one the other day. You have to slightly roll down the window just enough to work with it and not worry much about the short side until after you get it rolled up. Once you have it tucked and stuck well enough at the bottom, you can bump it back down and finish pushing out water and making sure it's stuck properly. The bottom sweeps are not so tough that it will mess it up if you have it cut properly and do a decent push out when you tuck it. It is tricky but it can be done. It's not as hard as Lexus IS front doors. Good luck

Haven't had a favorite car/vehicle color in a long time. This is now my new favorite. Pics don't do it justice AT ALL. If I were to do a project build, it will be this color. Absolutely cool color. Kenny Wayne Shepard approved.

Nice work there Sir. Very Nice.