Bham

No, 2023 is the new model. Type R has a big wing but not blocking the glass.
 

You no longer need to remove the rear spoiler or wiper hardware on the new body style hatchbacks. Much easier.

It is just a spam account, AI generated based on how it is phrased.

Can’t have bad tint on our own vehicle.  R&R completed   👍 
 
 

Sweet ride.  

Can’t have bad tint on our own vehicle.  R&R completed   👍 
 
 

Thank you all, this has made me feel a little better knowing it wasn’t totally my fault lol I will not be removing any more Ford rear view mirrors. Not worth the risk 

Those Ford mounts with the spring retention clip are the worst. One time on and not supposed to come back off.  The tool they make for removal is sketchy at best. I spent a very long time, trying many different methods learning how to take those off properly.  If you don't know for sure how to remove these, then skip it and cut around it.  I am glad to see they have gotten away from this style of mount now. 

Those Ford mounts with the spring retention clip are the worst. One time on and not supposed to come back off.  The tool they make for removal is sketchy at best. I spent a very long time, trying many different methods learning how to take those off properly.  If you don't know for sure how to remove these, then skip it and cut around it.  I am glad to see they have gotten away from this style of mount now. 

They seem to be engineered for quick assembly at the cost of being serviceable. Plus the whole planned obsolescence thing.

Those Ford mounts with the spring retention clip are the worst. One time on and not supposed to come back off.  The tool they make for removal is sketchy at best. I spent a very long time, trying many different methods learning how to take those off properly.  If you don't know for sure how to remove these, then skip it and cut around it.  I am glad to see they have gotten away from this style of mount now. 

As soon as I read Ford F350, I knew it was the rear view mirror. We broke one a few years ago. Even with the removal tool, it is a PITA. Now we do not remove any Ford rear view mirrors. Just slit the film to go around the base and seem them together on top.

Autobahn I3 56 has a higher TSER (overall heat rejection) than XR Black or XR Plus. It also has a high IR rejection, but both films are metered at 1025nm so across the whole spectrum, those numbers could be very different. I would check out both films in person to see which looks better to you. If the Autobahn I3 looks better, it might be worth the price due to that and the performance. If the same level of appearance, the performance jump might not be enough for the price difference. Go with the shop that you feel gives you the best results since the difference in the films is not drastic.
 
As for the LED lighting, it depends on your vehicle. Some OEM LED headlamps are great, like Acura, and other brands are garbage. My S63 and Tesla both have amazing LED headlamps that are much better than HID. However, I drove a Cadillac XTS rental, and I could barely tell they were on. I literally had to pull over and check. I also drove a Mercedes C Class that had good LED headlamps and a GLA Class that had horrible LED headlamps. So it varies from brand to brand and even between models. My CL63 that has factory HID has horrible light output, so I upgraded the bulbs to LED, which were about 30% brighter. We are also an automotive lighting store which is why I chimed in on this.

I'm half way through tinting a Lucid Air and just thought I would give you all a heads up.
The rear doors on this model have screens which are in the way. Even if you tint with panels on,
it will be a problem. There's a wide rubber molding that is also in the way. Add in $$ for time and effort.

My thoughts on this are that tint shops should have never started agreeing to discounts for dealerships.  I mean why? Because they bring you " a bunch of cars ".  Well so what.  That doesn't make them any easier to tint.  Dealerships ask for outrageous discounts and blame it on the volume they bring you.  Tint shops should have never started agreeing to these type of discounts.  Dealerships can well afford normal pricing.  If anything, give the 10% off the total of an invoice, not 10-20% off each vehicle.  At least that will cover you if they don't bring you a bunch of cars and will also give them a better reason to bring you more at one time instead of one here and there.  20% is not necessary in my opinion, but they will want at least that just because they are a dealership.  
 
This is just my take on this subject.  Many will have a different opinion, but I think if shops had stood their ground years ago on this, dealerships wouldn't expect these type of discounts.   

I've got the ceramic 70 in a heat/light cube with the ceramic 30, HP30 and clear glass. That stuff is amazing, especially when you can see it side by side. I suspect it's two layers of ceramic base films laminated together to meter at 70vlt. I hope they never change it.
 
 
Thanks @Bham.  Believe it or not I really enjoy educating the customers to find out what they really need and not try to oversell just to turn a buck. Most of my new clients come from older referrals and when they find me I keep em for years.
 
For sure more people are catching on to the product name and I've yet to have a piece of HP or the ceramic fail that wasn't my own fault.
 
It's nice to know I'm not paying for a bunch of marketing collateral and a butt kissing salesman to travel around pass out tshirts and coffee cups that's added into the cost of my roll stock.

My thoughts on this are that tint shops should have never started agreeing to discounts for dealerships.  I mean why? Because they bring you " a bunch of cars ".  Well so what.  That doesn't make them any easier to tint.  Dealerships ask for outrageous discounts and blame it on the volume they bring you.  Tint shops should have never started agreeing to these type of discounts.  Dealerships can well afford normal pricing.  If anything, give the 10% off the total of an invoice, not 10-20% off each vehicle.  At least that will cover you if they don't bring you a bunch of cars and will also give them a better reason to bring you more at one time instead of one here and there.  20% is not necessary in my opinion, but they will want at least that just because they are a dealership.  
 
This is just my take on this subject.  Many will have a different opinion, but I think if shops had stood their ground years ago on this, dealerships wouldn't expect these type of discounts.   

My thoughts on this are that tint shops should have never started agreeing to discounts for dealerships.  I mean why? Because they bring you " a bunch of cars ".  Well so what.  That doesn't make them any easier to tint.  Dealerships ask for outrageous discounts and blame it on the volume they bring you.  Tint shops should have never started agreeing to these type of discounts.  Dealerships can well afford normal pricing.  If anything, give the 10% off the total of an invoice, not 10-20% off each vehicle.  At least that will cover you if they don't bring you a bunch of cars and will also give them a better reason to bring you more at one time instead of one here and there.  20% is not necessary in my opinion, but they will want at least that just because they are a dealership.  
 
This is just my take on this subject.  Many will have a different opinion, but I think if shops had stood their ground years ago on this, dealerships wouldn't expect these type of discounts.   

My thoughts on this are that tint shops should have never started agreeing to discounts for dealerships.  I mean why? Because they bring you " a bunch of cars ".  Well so what.  That doesn't make them any easier to tint.  Dealerships ask for outrageous discounts and blame it on the volume they bring you.  Tint shops should have never started agreeing to these type of discounts.  Dealerships can well afford normal pricing.  If anything, give the 10% off the total of an invoice, not 10-20% off each vehicle.  At least that will cover you if they don't bring you a bunch of cars and will also give them a better reason to bring you more at one time instead of one here and there.  20% is not necessary in my opinion, but they will want at least that just because they are a dealership.  
 
This is just my take on this subject.  Many will have a different opinion, but I think if shops had stood their ground years ago on this, dealerships wouldn't expect these type of discounts.   

I have not used it but I don't trust it because of a trusted friend and his inside knowledge.  This knowledge was from a few years ago though di maybe it's ok now but in but playing Russian roulette.  I'll stick to Global. 

I'll put it this way = it is very hard(almost impossible) to waste a piece of film because of a sharpie marker.  
 
Cutting directly on the uprights = once you make that first cut, the second cut BETTER be perfect. Otherwise that piece will never fit the window properly and you will have to make another pattern.  There is no room for correction cutting directly against the uprights.  Same principe applies to the rear glass or windshield or quarter window. It's impossible to hurt a piece of glass with a sharpie. It is rather easy to etch a piece of glass with a blade. 

I'll put it this way = it is very hard(almost impossible) to waste a piece of film because of a sharpie marker.  
 
Cutting directly on the uprights = once you make that first cut, the second cut BETTER be perfect. Otherwise that piece will never fit the window properly and you will have to make another pattern.  There is no room for correction cutting directly against the uprights.  Same principe applies to the rear glass or windshield or quarter window. It's impossible to hurt a piece of glass with a sharpie. It is rather easy to etch a piece of glass with a blade. 

If you are talking about when you are cutting the edges of a roll-up window = you have to start your cut above your beginning point and then swoop in at a curve to make contact with the edge so that you can slide you blade along the edge.  Kinda like the curve of a skateboard ramp.  If you just plunge the knife in exactly at your cut point, the plunge will push the knife blade a little farther than you are wanting to start your cut. Hence the gouge that is lower that your glass edge cut. The gouge at the end of the cut is due to the angle of your blade when you finish your stroke.  Again, curve the cut out and finish the edges(make them straight) with a ruler on the peel board.  
 
Also, the cut along the edge of the glass should be one smooth stroke. If you pause or try to restart you will have "ticks" in you cut line.  
 
Came back to say as I am cutting one out that if you are trying to cut down the sides of your roll-up windows by pushing the knife into the edge and running it down, instead of marking and cutting on a peel board, you will ALWAYS have that gouge in your pattern.  This method of cutting never works properly and you will not see a reputable shop using that method of cutting patterns. 

That is 100% heat gun damage.  It is from them trying to fix those creases in the tint that should not even be there.  
Sorry you got hit with a bad installer.  There is no reason fo creases in that area other than inexperienced installer. Whoever did this tint job should replace that plastic piece and re-tint that window.   

Reminds me of Tintwizards method of blasting the entire film.
 
Don't see any concerns other than just don't drop the thing and possible mobility issues in old age from repetitive movement with the weight of the heater(s) used.
 
Seems, as though heat is being dispersed over a wide area, moving along, and at a distance off the surface in a similar fashion to control excessive heat exposure; same as what a heat gun does over a smaller area.
 
My guess would be temp doesn't exceed that of using a torch, which was always given the stink eye from tech support, because it was 'suspected' of causing chemical changes in adhesive and coloring. Haven't heard any long term reporting to back the suspicions.
 
Do eat your spinach before jumping on board with this. Then watch your arm build massive muscles. You'll be going around with one popeye arm and well, a wimpy arm in comparison. 😆 💪

By the way, I remember seeing the Global shrink of a VW back glass way back about the time stated.