DynamicATL

Its just the ones that ask if you know how to drive it? Yes, your vehicle has been around for over 5 years. 

Hey hey hey 😠🤣

Hey hey hey 😠🤣

I like to do a 15/20 on the rear windows to help block headlights. Up til now, I only did 3M Crystalline, which comes in a 20% but is very brown, so I would do 40% for the 1st layer and 50% for the 2nd layer. No issues with defrosters. We just don't want to risk damage while removing tint from Tesla Model 3s. So if a customer comes back wanting darker, we add a layer instead of replace.

I like to do a 15/20 on the rear windows to help block headlights. Up til now, I only did 3M Crystalline, which comes in a 20% but is very brown, so I would do 40% for the 1st layer and 50% for the 2nd layer. No issues with defrosters. We just don't want to risk damage while removing tint from Tesla Model 3s. So if a customer comes back wanting darker, we add a layer instead of replace.

We only double layer on our personal vehicles...really only offered it once because a customer just tinted his car with us, but wanted it darker.  It was a brand new vehicle and we didn't want the risk of damaging the defrosters.  Other than that, they have to pay to have it removed if they want us to retint it.

Repeated now 1000x on the forum...big brand names do not allow their film to be sold. If you see any being sold on eBay or online, it is fake. Express is going to be as good as you get without being a tint shop.

Yes, Crystalline would be your best choice. I have Crystalline 40 on my driver/passenger doors and love it. It's been there for 7 years and still performs and looks the same as the day it was installed.

As to the glass in the roof, it has laminated glass that is more prone to thermal stress. It also may have one layer of 'tinted' glass that isn't doing so much in terms solar rejection. The best way to tell is to open it partially and compare white clouds looking from the inside to determine glass 'color'.

If the glass has a factory tint to it, you can ask around tint shops to see if they carry a reflective (mirror or semi-mirror) architectural film with relatively low absorption with much better solar reflective properties.. It has to be a film using a pressure sensitive adhesive system (already stick under the protective liner.

Another option in the architectural film choices would be a dual reflective film. Dual (or DR) films have a layer of tint and a reflective layer laminated together to provide low reflective to the interior side and enhanced reflectivity to the exterior facing. They, too, have lower absorption rates with moderate to serious solar rejection. Again, a pressure sensitive adhesive is a must for automotive installations of architectural film.
 
If there is a tint is the roof glass, any reflective appearance of reflective (or mirror type) film will be diminished in the same fashion as laminating a tint layer to a reflective layer to make dual reflect film products. So in essence from outside the vehicle the reflectivity of the roof would  be less than placing mirrored film on relatively clear glass.

Ceramics, ceramic-dyed and straight-dyed films are the most absorptive films on the market.
 
Good luck in your search for the architectural film with pressure sensitive adhesive. You might see if SolarGard, Johnson, VKool, Huper Optiks, or Madico film still sells pressure sensitive adhesive version of their reflective films.

As stated, double layering is typically not advised. However, many tinters do it, including us in select situations. Since the 2nd layer will only last as long as the 1st, we would only double-layer our own film. We've had Tesla Model 3s that wanted to go darker, so we added a layer to the rear window instead of removing the film risking damage to the defrosters. I do it on most of my vehicles since I prefer 3M Crystalline but don't like the heavy brown of the 20%. So instead, I add a double-layer 40 and 50 to get the darkness I want. We've never had an issue of peeling or otherwise. As far as absorption, I would not worry about it. FormulaOne Stratos, for example, has two layers of Ceramic in it, resulting in a higher absorption than the rest of the lineup but no complaints.

As stated, double layering is typically not advised. However, many tinters do it, including us in select situations. Since the 2nd layer will only last as long as the 1st, we would only double-layer our own film. We've had Tesla Model 3s that wanted to go darker, so we added a layer to the rear window instead of removing the film risking damage to the defrosters. I do it on most of my vehicles since I prefer 3M Crystalline but don't like the heavy brown of the 20%. So instead, I add a double-layer 40 and 50 to get the darkness I want. We've never had an issue of peeling or otherwise. As far as absorption, I would not worry about it. FormulaOne Stratos, for example, has two layers of Ceramic in it, resulting in a higher absorption than the rest of the lineup but no complaints.

Both great films, Formula One will have the more accurate IR rejection numbers since they measure across the whole 780-2500nm spectrum. XPEL only measures at a singular wavelength, 1025nm. So across the whole spectrum, that number is much lower; otherwise, they would advertise it.
 
On a side note, it is funny how many people on here used to trip about 3M rating their IR rejection from 900-1000nm but I don't see any posts complaining about XPEL or Global only metering at 1025nm. 🤣

The circled areas are raised film sections that need to be pushed back down. The DOT Matrix (black dots) are sitting on top of the glass pushing the film up and creating air pockets. It will never be perfect, but a credit card wrapped in a microfiber towel might do the job. Just don't push too hard to create an indention in the film.
 
Most of our customers go with 50% on the windshield to add a slight shade. If you want to add shade, switching to 50% might be worth it. I would ride more in your wife's car, especially at night, to see if you want that. I wouldn't waste money swapping to 70% since it would not be noticeable.

If you have any issues seeing at night with the 70, i would not recommend going lower. If no issues, you will most likely be fine with 50. I run 40 on mine and have zero issues with visibility. Here is a couple of videos I did on a previous vehicle. I don't have any night videos.
 
Sunny Day
 
Gloomy Day
 

Morning. You'll need a 60" inch roll. Roof measurement is 41.8X41.8.

A 36" roll is perfect for most rear windows and you can split it in half (18/18) for the side windows. If you want a little more room to be safe, go with a 40" roll.

Yes. We used 18% for the roof.

It is all cheaper quality film but UltraVision would be the best option with a Lifetime Warranty. If you ever need to replace it, the warranty does not cover labor. So you would be paying for the removal plus installation for the 2nd time. Most tint shops won't install film they do not carry so I would call around to ensure you have somewhere to take it. Lastly, UltraVision is a thicker film which takes longer to prep so if the shop messes up during installation due to inexperience, you would have to buy extra film. Not trying to talk you out of it, just want you know it is not as simple as buying it and having someone stick it.

There is a CPU or most likely the radio amp on that side of the trunk. The water can go through the hole and fry it. I would cover the hole if possible or open the liner of the trunk and stuff thick towels in there to be safe.
 

If the film meters 35% or higher (most meter higher), then you should be right at 32%. No film that meters 35% out of the box will drop that low into the 20s. That formula does not equal real-world results. Have the shop cut a small piece of 35% and meter it on your glass. This is the only way to know.

If the film meters 35% or higher (most meter higher), then you should be right at 32%. No film that meters 35% out of the box will drop that low into the 20s. That formula does not equal real-world results. Have the shop cut a small piece of 35% and meter it on your glass. This is the only way to know.

Thats very interesting, the CTX looks more grey than the IRX which looks a bit bluish.  
 
Thanks again DynamicATL!

The easiest way is to have the shop cut a small piece to meter on your glass. This will be the only true way to see the final number. Too many variables for any formula to give you exact results.

I have a 72" that we've only used twice in Georgia. Email me at Sales@DynamicAppearance.com and I will send you some photos.

Llumar used to make an ATR 35 green.  Not sure they still make it so you would have to find someone with old stock. 

What if you were told that they are both the same films and you are paying extra for a name??