quality tintz

8 or 9 years ago i feel the bulldozer edges were different. it never left a mark if u hit a dry spot.
 
now if u hit a dry spot it just seems like it leaves a mark like sneakers on a gym floor.

Y'all know the reach is different on each end right? One end is thin and flat and the other end is curved. The thinner flat end will get behind a tight brake light.

Bull dozer isn’t cutting it on some of the tighter windows, need something thin and long lol.. yes that sounds bad haha just looking for what works for you guys 

I like to sweat it black bag and Simple Green.

Nice just with baby shampoo???

Sometimes i use my blow torch heat up the outside glass and pull it off leaving no glue 

I'm old school and just bag using my regular slip solution.  Ammonia is prolly safe but I'm afraid I would have a customer say they are alergic to it and want a new car.

Don't do it in a college parking lot.
 
WAAAAY too much "scenery " if you know what I mean
 
Then there's the " Hey can you do mine for 50 bucks" guys out of the wood work

Bag it or steam it and hope for the best! 
 

Same here, black bag.

Bagging it for sure. I use clear trash bags split down the bottom and side to open it up lay it on the back window Sharpie the pattern then cut it on my peel board. Spray the inside with an ammonia dawn mix pull it out in the sun with heat and defrost going check every 15 minutes to see if it pulls clean. 

Guess I never thought about that. Thanks
Cheers

Also, I've found that there are naturally talented people out there that will learn to tint well very quickly, some I've met had only a couple years experience. Others I've worked with have had decades experience, and I wouldn't let them near something I owned

If you're really good you'll never be satisfied with your work, it's when you think you know it all is when you lose your edge. Just figure you'll always be learning.

One thing that makes it harder starting out is the frequency you tint.  5 a week or just 1? You can forget stuff fast and the more you do the quicker you would catch on. If i could go back, i would tint my own vehicle 1-3 times per day, along with shrinking the bg a few times. The cost of film would be worth the waste.  
 
 

Isopropal alky doesnt break down tint glue from my winter installed jobs(flatglass or auto) for at least the last 15yrs or so and it doesnt break down the adhesive for removals very well either 
 
Windshield washer fluid worked for a flatglass job that was over 100mi away and no good heat at the storefront glass@i just dumped in a few ozs in my 2qt sprayer as the reg slip froze when cleaning the glass
 
 
 
 

Was mobile for 11 years in Michigan.  past couple years been hitting -15 at times.   Have always tinted inside a shop and alter methods for the cold weather.
Inform customers the car has to thaw before it can be tinted.  sucks when the slip freezes on the window when ya spray it.  Tell them  heat and defrost on and car warm before they arrive.  leave it running in parking lot.  DEMAND 70 degrees while tinting in shop and 20 to 30 min wait time before pulling it out.  Switch to drying agent in winter like Ultra-bond and seal edges with heat.  Use pro-handle and extra pressure to remove excess water.  make sure BG is warm before shrinking.   

I saw a couple stories few years ago of it happening but I'm not sure how credible the story was. I'm in the processing of figuring out how I wanna heat my shop this week. 

Do it all the time and encourage it.
Devil

I had that happen as well while in the middle tinting

Tip # 283--Wait for the neighbor to finish cutting his yard before you start tinting. 

Over the years have used many different ones.  soft black in the 80's and switched to yellow, then blue and tried orange and red.  Large turbos often left more water and the film textured as it dried.  smaller ones give more pressure per square inch but then take longer.  switched to fusion 5ES with blue max  and noticed a haze instead of texture and faster cure.  pro-handle is slower and more awkward for prep.
 
Best of both worlds.  Use a yellow turbo cut 9 inches for quick prep and squeegee with a long angle on one side for reach.  the yellow can flex in your hand to adjust to the curve of the window.  final step use pro-handle for max water removal

AGREED! But I have a hard time with that. Gotta learn to be ok with that.

One thing I have learned over the years, you have to be okay with people walking out the door.  Can't please everyone, so why try to?

I learned my lesson. Done this a few times before and I always hated the film. Was cheap, flimsy and difficult to work with. I won't use other peoples film anymore.
 
But they last time someone came in, they brought two different DIY rolls. One was a real roll of film, the other was the static cling type that you can take off and repostition. I tried to explain to the customer not to use it, They were a bit aggressive and insisted that I did. I said screw it and did what they wanted lol.