Stewy

3mhave a hugh selection, llumar have good selection.  We maily use 3M deco film.  We own digital plotter that range from 30k to 150k each.  When we were looking to buy a digital printer that can print white ink, it was a million dollar for 1 printer and was advised that printing white is difficult.  That is why deco film is expensive. Decorate dfilm.com sell 3M film for 40% more than what I get it for from 3M.  They are charging alot knowing that most don’t do much in deco film. 

I learned from @flat rock stan at Oregon. It is always a better learning experience when you are physically there learning. But, i have been told that he has had many students learn just with his videos. Great teacher and I would not be where I am today if it weren't for him. 

My paint protection price is low as shit right now. But, I want to land everything I can so I can put more practice into vehicles. I dont wanna do it for free so pricing low, atleast I make a little something while trying to get really good at it. My price is only $600 for a quarter front. It was once at $500. It used to take me 6 hours to do the front but now Im down to 4 hours.

My paint protection price is low as shit right now. But, I want to land everything I can so I can put more practice into vehicles. I dont wanna do it for free so pricing low, atleast I make a little something while trying to get really good at it. My price is only $600 for a quarter front. It was once at $500. It used to take me 6 hours to do the front but now Im down to 4 hours.

Thanks guys! Gonna try it out. Its like a 20 million dollar house. I dont even know why im doing it.

@pbalentine I use to go with express. If all you want is film and nothing else. Then express is your place. But if you want to be able to get free new product samples, marketing product, shirts, hats, and a rep then you should give SolarFX a try. Plus, SFX has weekly specials. Last week I recieved a free roll of 10" for glare strips. I can keep going but then I wont be able to watch my Cowboys play. 

He owns some jets and airplanes. He took 2 teslas and 2 jags for ppf and dub tint all paid in cash. Im basically hooking him up with the residential tint though. Only charging $180. 

I'm not the best on arches... but I can do them w/o any problems. This was how I was taught - which I have no doubt is the worst way to do them. lol
 
I just cut the arch as a square or rectangle... like any other window. I make sure I have a good a amount of slip in my water and put up the film... trim and finish. I use a hardcard to cut my film - I'm not good at free hand cutting. After I initially put the film up, and I get it in position, I'll then chop off the top left and right corners.
 
That being said... I know tinters that will pre-cut the film on the ground. If you have done other windows in the job that are slightly bigger then the arch window, take a liner from a previous window you did.. go up and use that as a template. Put it up on the window and cut it out. Then take that pattern and cut the film on the floor. That way you don't have a ton of extra film around the arch that you're trying to deal with.
 
Another option if you can't do that - prior to putting the film on the window - chop some of the left and right top corners.
 
Basically you're trying to not have any extra film then you need. Extra film can bunch on, fold over/under, etc. So doing what you can to minimize that is helpful.
 
Like I said, I use a hard card for my cutting. So I'll start at one end, cut up and over the curve and down to the other end. The hard card flexes enough to conform to the curve.
 
I dunno... that might help you some. There is def a knack to doing them. Half the problem is that you're generally on a ladder doing all this by yourself.
 
How big is the arch?
 
 

Just remember... No good deed and all that stuff. It's a saying for a reason. Lol

I have found it to be much easier, especially when dealing with large arch top windows, to precut them as close as possible. 
 
You can make a simple compass with some string and a sharpie. I’ve even used a strip of film when I had misplaced my stringed marker and had to cut it on the job.
 
Mark your halfway point at the bottom of your piece and then mark the height, extra included each way. Tape or thumb the string  on your center mark and trace out your curve.
 
Arch tops with the extended legs can be marked by dropping the center below the bottoms of your piece. Just mark you leg heights and center height. Play around with the amount you drop the center until all three points line up. 
 
When it comes to gothic, ellipse, or bell top type windows I’ll usually try to tape the piece up and mark a general outline. Makes it so much easier not having to deal with all that excess.  

Been a while since I did one, as I usually stick to automotive, but what I usually do is put up rectangular cut film, cut excess down(be careful not to cut back too much!!), push film in carefully,  bend your hard card to the same shape as the curve then cut.
 
Some arched transoms can be really deep with little frame, so relief slits cut into the excess film can help with getting the film closer to the glass until you can see better how much more excess you can trim off.
 
Hope that helps!
 
Oh, and no one ever cleans them, so..

Those dodge vehicles are easy to top load without creasing the sides. Took me forever to figure out. I learned how to top load well because of 200s, 300s, Darts, and Jeeps. When I see a toyota or a nissan i get excited cuz i can get that car done in 45 min compared to a dodge in 1.5 to 2 hours. I also noticed that the faster you install, the less contamination. It might just be a coincidence though. But, the best way to install is bottom loading. Its the safest and cleanest way. 

Those dodge vehicles are easy to top load without creasing the sides. Took me forever to figure out. I learned how to top load well because of 200s, 300s, Darts, and Jeeps. When I see a toyota or a nissan i get excited cuz i can get that car done in 45 min compared to a dodge in 1.5 to 2 hours. I also noticed that the faster you install, the less contamination. It might just be a coincidence though. But, the best way to install is bottom loading. Its the safest and cleanest way. 

One of the glass company we do work for gave us 2 48in by 72in and installed it on the wall for $180. He hook us up with some strong tempered glass. It works for us. We also have another 48in by 72in mobile peel board. This peel board is acutally pretty sick. Dont mind the mess it was busy today and we have a shit ton of boxes that came in.

One of the glass company we do work for gave us 2 48in by 72in and installed it on the wall for $180. He hook us up with some strong tempered glass. It works for us. We also have another 48in by 72in mobile peel board. This peel board is acutally pretty sick. Dont mind the mess it was busy today and we have a shit ton of boxes that came in.

One of the glass company we do work for gave us 2 48in by 72in and installed it on the wall for $180. He hook us up with some strong tempered glass. It works for us. We also have another 48in by 72in mobile peel board. This peel board is acutally pretty sick. Dont mind the mess it was busy today and we have a shit ton of boxes that came in.

SFX ceramic and PPF. Finally got our Race Ramps tested.

Topgun. The trainer reminds me of Stan so going with that guy for sure.

Topgun. The trainer reminds me of Stan so going with that guy for sure.

The trainer interviewed us today. We are set for January training. Eye exam, physical exam, and an interview before he can take us in. We basically past it. My back isn't a problem. We are doing electronics and tinting BG so its all good. Cant wait!

Classes are anywhere from $5k to $10k for a 2 week training. Trying to send 3 people and $30k is kind out of the question. Im still doing my research, just like i did my research for @flat rock stan training. @Midtown Houston i know what you mean but age is what you make it. I still feel like Im in my 20s and Im 35.
 
You guys think that having a back problem is going to affect my ability to do this trade? 

I paid for rightlook online class $800...It is something I want to learn but I feel I am spreading myself thin...wish I learn this skill in my twenty.

I talked to Jeff from beachcities. Good guy, just by talking to him on the phone, he has already showed me what to watch out for. Definitely going to use him at some point.

Here's what I know, these are the top 3 that I'd go to if I were learning again. These are in the best order. I know Techs that have learned and become successful from "rightlook and Dingking" but they are known as training mills and pump out students. I think your desire has a lot to do with weather your succeed or fail in PDR. Good luck in your journey. They will most likely tell you not to practice or buy tools until after training, because no one company makes the best tools. I love ultra dent and dent craft and a few others. 
http://www.beachcitiespdr.com/training.asp
 
http://www.topgunpaintlessdentrepairtrainingschool.com

http://www.beachcitiespdr.com/training.asp

I think Rightlook offers them, at least they used to