CnCCustoms

It’s hit or miss. ALOT have the set screw and the new trucks I’m seeing more and more have the old school compression mount u just peel from the top down like they used for 20 years!  Took technicians breaking enough Windshields trying to remove them to finally ditch that stupid crap they used for the last 15 years

I use quickbooks.  It’s easy. User friendly. And makes quarterly batching for my cpa a breeze!  Plus you can send the file to an excel spreadsheet for end of year books

Gotta agree!

Haven’t had a real lunch break in probably 6 years

46 minutes ago, jh812 said:

 

yup

SolarFX makes a damn good ceramic for the money.  Talk to @whitehog to see bout a sample to try. If you want to get pricey you can contact huper the name will sell it. But it’s still a tough sell because of the price. Express, scorpion, global. All offer one but best bang for your buck for you and your customers is SolarFX. 

That’s a loaded question really.... any idea what price point you wanna be in... what film are you currently using

50 minutes ago, highplains said:

I bet! I always wondered on the ones that I've done if anyone in the sales process (be it the salesman, parts rep, or service advisor) warn them that the trucks end up permanently modified and can't be returned to stock without a replacement frame

No they don’t explain that!  When a walk in customer asks about it my shop I explain every detail. Your chevys now can be returned to stock with a retro bracket that is welded in. I’ve done a few.  But yeah the dealerships trip me out they don’t know what’s going on normally so they don’t explain it correctly.  I got the old “you have to put water on it?” Once while tinting on site at dealership and almost fell over lol

41 minutes ago, highplains said:

 can you imagine how it would've gone if you were installing a 4"+ and they happened to poke their head in while you were cutting off the frame brackets

Oh it happens. Was doing a 6” kit on a new 150 one day. Salesman on the deal at the dealership came to get some info off it. Walked in while I’m cutting the crossmember for new diff mounts. He shit a brick. Customers amaze me...  want custom work but wonder why I need to remove or modify what’s there to do so smh

Blue max is great... try the clear max it’s a little softer. But whether you use those or orange crush or anything related... before each job take a white scrub pad and a little glass cleaner and scuff the edge.  All but guarantee it to stop your scratches.  Also if you push it into side seals. Wipe it off before your next pass

2 hours ago, jh812 said:

Just another reason why the customer shouldn't watch. Can you imagine hiring a plumber and saying OMG why are you tearing out the sheet rock

 

In the end it doesn't matter what method you use as long as it's a clean outcome and the customer is happy with it. I don't care if you pull every window completely out, it's your method and I'm sure you do it well.

 

I’m like you tho.... some guys use the one method they’re taught and that’s it.  I use every trick and method I’ve learned over 10+ years.  No 2 vehicles are the same. And sometimes different methods work better. Keep on slingin!

Go with the SolarFX can’t beat the sales team. My rep Chuck Siders has literally become more of a friend than a sales rep. Great group of people to say the least. @whitehog can hook you up. I’ve used both. And hands down the SolarFX can’t be beat by express in my experience. Get a sample in your hands and try it. You won’t regret it

20 minutes ago, jh812 said:

Well I grew up in a garage so it's second nature to me. I don't know why so many people in this industry act like this. 9 out of 10 of these brand new vehicles the customers take to have a leveling or lift kit put on. You take it to have anything else done their not gonna say oh I'm not gonna take apart this new vehicle. Nope they get the job done and return the vehicle back just like it was. Do you run the risk of breaking stuff? Absolutely. Do you run the risk of messing up stuff half peeling? Yep sure as hell do. Half these seals literally pull right out. I can use a gasket tool also but if I can pull it I will. I've converted over two people that were strictly I don't pull anything. The last one I was with bottom loaded his first window and said man I think that's the cleanest window I've ever laid. Some people get stuck they learn one routine and that's it. Me I've decided to learn as many techniques as I can to best suit the job. Rant over

That’s funny!  We were doing a leveling kit on a new Chevy Monday... customer walks around corner. Sees spindle hanging and strut removed and freaked out!!!  Started yelling and cussing wanting to know why In the hell I was taking his truck apart.  Just shook my head

Go with SolarFX. 

I don’t even take the push pins or the screw out. Pop the sail panel off. Roll window down. Roll the panel off the hard plastic channel of the seal. Pull out from rear end of door.  NOTE:  when reinstalling the seal... shoot a lil slip on the channel to slip in under the panel easier

30 minutes ago, BRITEworks said:

I'm looking at this 

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LH05S5Y/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Those work ok for quarters and sometimes Windshields. But if you have a back glass that’s a lil deeper it’s hard to hold light and cut.  That’s where a longer one helps cuz it has better coverage from one position

Mountain LED Underhood Light Bar!   Works great. The spring loaded clamps for holding to a hood can be used to grab B and C pillars or door jambs to position the light where you want. Completely versatile and cordless rechargeable 

Not frameless but as recommended PULL THE SEALS!  One of those cars that can either be a cake walk or a royal pain in the ass. 10 years old also. Scrub the s*** our of it

He shouldn't have an attitude with you.... I always say... what kinda day did he have?  Ya never know. I get grouchy with customers sometimes and it's not their fault just a bad day... when he said it may be better it may not be if he redoes it.... that's sometimes true. You have adhesive on the glass. Behind the seals and felts and the more you disturb them to really make sure everything is removed- the higher the chances are to end up with more contaminants in the replaced film. Another reason you should leave it with him... the Installer will most likely be more patient and not rush the process. Best of luck to ya!

2 heat guns. One under film one on top... think it's called ryk method. Can shrink on in 10 mins that way

We back blade every back glass followed by 0000 steel wool with spray way cleaner. And I haven't had a peanut in over a year since doing this

I use the square touch less chip system. The terminal is like $120 and if you do more than 100 transactions per month I get lowered processing fees

I spray the Scorpion coatings bedliners and my rep sent me a couple samples of film the other day. Venom series(nano carbon) and shield series(Ceramic).  I've used both on reg customers cars so I can keep a close eye on em. But has anyone else used the films?  Longevity?  Warranty claims?  General use?

Tattoos...handyman work around the house.... even had that one girl who really wanted her Windows tinted...... lol. Oh well married with kids now, Cash it is!