CnCCustoms

It’s definitely not SolarFX. I was with them for 3+ years... I did receive several(5) sample rolls of the prime xr ceramic line from xpel and I’ll tell you right now... that stuff has the most aggressive adhesive here in Georgia I’ve ever seen!!!!!  I’m almost certain garware makes SolarFX. As they do global. Not sure about armalon. But the xpel is a different animal from anything else I’ve used.  It’s almost annoying how fast it sets up!

41 minutes ago, Prim3e said:

 

Wow! Yeah I’m definitely being underpaid big time. I still haven’t accepted the job so I still have some negotiating power.

 

how many years of experience do you have?

Over 12 years... but when I worked for the dealership as a technician. I only had about 8 years of part time 

Screw that!  I was a flat rate technician that also tinted at the dealership.  They supplied everything to do the job. And a 4 door sedan-(mostly fusions and focus) paid 4.5 hours.... times that by my pay grade was $112.50 per car. A 2 door glass job was 2 hours which paid $50. We also did door edge guard and handle cups. Flat pay of 3 hours for them or $75.  If you go for $25 and $45 per car they’re takin extreme advantage of you!  I’m also in the southeast. Athens GA was where dealership was located.  If you have experience and are bringing a trade to them to make big money off of.... make them pay for it!!!  Remember a dealership will normally take a $160 tint job and mark it up to $299-599 depending on the sale.  Best of luck!!

Doesn’t look like huper per say. Could be Autobahn or Performa series tho. Same company. Different lines

Several cars... none worth mentioning. And this lil pool house... wall windows were trimmed in Cyprus.... talk about splinters everywhere!

You cannot go wrong with global.  If you wanna spend double for CTX. That’s fine go ahead.... but at the price point global is the way to go!  I’ve installed dozens of brands over the years. And global for the most part out performs or at least contends with all

10 hours ago, DynamicATL said:

 

Absolutely, it is all about how you explain it.  We explain that if the vehicle is sitting in the sun for hours, it will get hot in there.  That the film is only going to slow the buildup which helps when the vehicle is only sitting there a short time.  We focus more on how fast the A/C works to cool the vehicle down and the reduced amount of heat you feel while driving which means you're more comfortable.  The heat lamp is a great tool but has to be used properly.  In 2018, our entry-level film sales are about 10% with the majority being our two highest films.  With all those higher-end sales this year (and previous years) I have never had a customer call back to complain about the films not performing as advertised.  If a shop is having that happen, then they need to adjust their selling tactics cause the current way is not working.

We have a lot of “ballers on a budget”. Which if you can sell them anything they expect it to be extraordinary. Those are the ones that have called or come by to express their concern that the car is still hot. Lol. I’m right there with you. Since March and changing my lineup and pushing higher end films. I’d be willing to bed my entry dyed film is less than 20% of my film sales. HP taking maybe 20-30%. And ceramic rules the roost!  My sales tactics now are the AC system working less. And the comfort inside the cabin once cooled.  We just had too many issues with the heat lamp. Trying to explain that that was just an example. 

13 hours ago, DynamicATL said:

Honestly, there is not an accurate way to demonstrate heat rejection to the customer.  There are too many variables once it is on the vehicle to duplicate in the shop...it is impossible.  The heat lamps are about the best it can get when showing the performance of a film as long as you are not misleading them by saying this is the same as your vehicle.  Numbers are great, but a lot of that goes over the customers head...they need something tangible to know what they are buying.  So to all the people against the use of a heat lamp, please show me a real-world TANGIBLE demonstration that any shop can duplicate and easily demonstrate for a customer.  IMO this does not exist.

Best tangible demonstration I offer... here are the different films. Here are the different prices. Yes... the most expensive will block more heat... agreed. Tint the vehicle and they see for themselves lol. I won’t use a even a heat lamp because it’s misleading.  Too many customers got in their car and wanted to know why it was still hot as hell inside....in north Georgia... 100 degrees.... 70% humidity. Sorry tint made from kryotonite wouldn’t cut this heat 100%

Buy express window films. You can order online and get whatever ya want. Call solar control films as well set up with global.  You can’t go wrong

Look up express window films. Order through their online catalog. The new charcoal line is global. Which you can NEVER go wrong with. The classic black is their stuff and is also good film. Buy good quality film from day one and I swear to you your life will be easier in every way. Don’t go cheap. Don’t try to learn with cheap film. I did years and years ago. Sucks ass looking back. The films now are so much better than they were 10-15+ years ago. Best of luck!

Def left over adhesive of some sort.  As far as the prime xr... got several samples last week and holy sheep shit what an aggressive adhesive!!!!  And the scratch coat is tits!

I occasionally had that issue with Johnson films. Never did with SolarFX and def don’t with global... I always dropped tint slime tho. Only use fusion now which is baby shampoo with a lot of glycerin. Tint slime has some quality control issues. We received several gallons that had NO slip at all. Same color. Same smell. But was like installing with alcohol. 

4 hours ago, DynamicATL said:

Haze will be the least of your worries.  

LOL. I was trying to be nice

I do know for a fact on the Flexfilm carbon ceramic and tint club carbon ceramic (same film from the exact same warehouse) has such an awful haze I wouldn’t carry it anyway. I’ve received samples and tried em.  And I don’t like it at all plus it’s like installing straight rubber

21 minutes ago, quality tintz said:

Do the heat lamps and all the info lie just wondering???

Not with a true carbon film... a real carbon no-dye film will reject more heat.  Me personally- why add more lines in the shop?  Deep dyed for an entry level film. Gets 30% of my customers. Hybrid HP has a little better heat rejection. That takes care of about 20% of my customers needs. Then the other 50% in ceramic.  I just don’t see the need in keeping every vlt in more than 3 lines. Especially when MOST manufacturers “carbon” film is a catchy name. 

Wrapped in Global QDP Ceramic. Also installed 4” lift. Wheels and Tires. Along with 2 sedans not worth mentioning. And 3 sets of roll ups to match

When it’s super hot. I’ve got my kegger with reg solution... if it’s not enough slip even with summer mixture I have a hand sprayer with a shit load of dawn in the water. I spray the window with that. Then spray film with my normal mix. Usually does the trick

2 hours ago, pbalentine said:

I think sungard is the worse film Ive tried out.  Didnt even shrink. 

Funny thing about that is.  15 years ago when sun Gard was actually Sun Gard.  I used more of the shadow line than any film since.  It was flawless. My dad still has a truck I tinted 15 years ago with shadow 38. And it looks like it was done last week!   But when they went under and then resurfaced under madico. All sun gard lines went downhill 

16 hours ago, DynamicATL said:

That sucks, we have only used some of the Wincos.  It is odd that none of their films are listed as color stable on the website...I was expecting atleast Wincos and Charcool would be have it listed.  Another oddity is there is zero warranty information I could find on their website.  Only thing mentioned "warranty" was on their terms and conditions page which was more geared to the consumer.

I never had an issue with the charcool on Windshields.  But the black pearl became very very problematic in the last few months we used it.  The wincos never gave issues. 

7 hours ago, quality tintz said:

What are other brands 

I honestly can’t remember who offers a true carbon.... I don’t buy into that crap. Offer deep dyed/hybrid HP/ ceramic.  Good better best. All carry lifetime warranty. 

We had a lot of issues with the Black pearl before the BPC launched. It was fading super fast. Even on a meter the vlt on one in particular dropped from 18% to 41 or 43%. Can’t remember exactly.  Madico wouldn’t do anything about it. Even under warranty.... dropped the manny from there

I can’t speak for Flexfilm.... but MOST companies that offer a “carbon” are selling a film with carbon in its name.... I may be wrong but I think there’s only like 2 true carbon films on the market

On 6/22/2018 at 11:06 PM, Super Dave said:

Yes, I prefer to wet shrink everything I can! Certain films (sputtered) have to be dry shrank. But you actually need quite a bit less heat when you wet shrink, I usually have to turn my heat gun all the way up when I dry shrink. 

Also, I always mix new bottles with more slip for windshields. I never use my tank for those, for obvious reasons. I have really liked using the film on, but I think you’ll find just about anything will give you more slip! The film on sets up fast and dries up fast- great for a back window that wants to roll or peanut, but bad for a windshield that takes a couple minutes to get lined up.

Hope you get it on your next go, I know how you feel, I ripped off about 4-5 ft worth of my most expensive film today on a 720S.

How do you use less heat to wet shrink?  You’re having to heat up water as well as the film?  If anything when I do occasionally wet shrink and used to 10+ years ago. It took twice as long and double the heat

We do 2-3 windshields every day... for the longest time they would bite me...... a lot of it is a mind f*** because “it’s and windshield and needs to be perfect”. Hammer the center top and bottom down. Use a gloved hand as @jh812 said on the bottom corners. And a light stretch method on the top corners. Leave excess to pull on. Works every time

Damn... I pay $2500 per year.  But that’s coverage on the shop (100k) contents(100k) garage keepers which covers cars inside and if while driving them something happens up to one million. And personal and customer liability up to one million