CnCCustoms

My price is exactly the same using my film or yours.  Given that and the fact that I guarantee mine... never had to install the customers lol

We’ve seen this many times. Considering 50% of our truck jobs are Silverado’s or Tahoe’s or their gmc counterpart. Previous 10 years as a ford dealership technician leads to contacts in other mannys. I spoke with one. He said this is a widely known issue on especially the 14 and 15 models. GM used an unknown company for their “panel protectant”. The dealerships see them constantly from simple water from rain or spills. We even tried plastic covers. But if left u attended the humidity and moisture alone will sweat the coating loose!  GM technician as well as my own advice if this happens. Used a non abrasive white scrub pad and distilled water with a drop of cheap hair conditioner. And scrub the rest of the panel down to remove the top coat evenly. Pat dry and wait 10 min. Good as new. Hope this helps!

5 hours ago, jh812 said:

How do we know that though? 

So far it’s construction to me is great. And the customer service we’ve been given I have no doubts that “if” we have a failure it will be handled correctly. At the end of the day it performs great. Handles even better. And God forbid it has to be removed due to its adhesive. With the exception of global in my experience every other “big name” film fails and has their faults. We see llumar , 3m and suntek issues a lot come through the shop. And I’d find it hard to believe that all those issues with receipts testifying their origin were bait and switch jobs. No it doesn’t cooperate great with a plotter when your used to global lol. But other than setup switch. I love the film. And it added a great Ir ceramic to our lineup.

added:  not trying to bash any other line. Just defending Xpel this far. Hope I don’t regret it in the future but I’m all but 100% confident that won’t be the case

On 9/14/2019 at 10:05 AM, pbalentine said:

Does xpel actually make their own film?

No they don’t. From common knowledge it’s a garware product. But it’s definitely not the same color nor the same adhesive as global. The adhesive is actually stronger and faster setting. And the color has a more blue grey color across the board. Regardless who makes it. It’s a rock solid film

Security film is a little different than normal neutral or DR flat glass as far as installation goes. But the process is essentially the same... cut, peel, lick it and stick it.  As far as pricing goes that’s an entirely different animal. That depends on what film they’re using? Are you getting attachment?  How high the windows are? And how many square ft is the job. I give my customers a break the higher the sq footage. 

O Reilly sells a cleaner from a private label I can’t remember the name but can only purchase it with a shop account. Works great!  Leave it on couple min and wipe off!  Also cleans headliners and carpets. I’ll take a pic of the bottle tomorrow

We brought them in a year ago along with our global line. And I’d say on average $3000-$5000 per month in film we order. I’ve never once had an issue with anything not in stock?  Never had to ask for $2000 in marketing materials. We use DAP software now with no issues from Xpel. But we only order XR Ceramic and XR Plus Ceramic. Can’t speak for lack of stock on CS and HP

No way I’d pay $350 for even their highest line! Suntek IMOP is absolute junk!  Find a shop even if it’s a little drive that offers any of the brands that @DynamicATLrecommends.   The haze alone from suntek makes me wanna vomit and the scratch coat is the worst we’ve ever seen!  If you can get passed those issues. If and when you have a failure good luck getting it warrantied. 

2017 F-150. Xpel XR Plus 5% On fronts and over Factory privacy. Xpel XR Plus 55% Windshield w/ Global QDP 5 10” Strip

Huge gaps on 2 windows for sure. But I’ve seen worse.  The drivers window is obviously a failed attempt to shave the top edge during install. It’s most obvious to me because I gave up shaving top edges for a while because of these results lol. Take it back and get em to warranty it out. At $400 for CIR. They should. 

With everything law enforcement puts up with daily... I’d be overly cautious as well. Stfu. Answer their questions politely yes sir no ma’am. Go on about your day. It’s simple. But unfortunately this new generation isn’t raised to treat everyone with respect. If you’re gonna be a smart ass be prepared to be treated as such! I’ve been pulled over countless times over the years. Never once lost my cool or forgot my manners.... never had a gun drawn on me...

Go with the xpel!  You can look at suntek wrong and scratch the hell out of it. I’m excessively rough on film and have never scratched xpel films!  Heat rejection is great for a color stable dyed film. And personally the xpel takes way more abuse shrinking it that the suntek!

From my experience 7 years ago it’s definitely not llumar. And even their highest “lifetime color stable” films fail and turn purple and adhesive fails in 3-5 years

Black pearl lineup is junk. Couple years with it. Nothing but failures!  At least here in Georgia which is even more sad because they’re in Georgia as well

So far so good with it. Aggressive adhesive for me. Sometimes too aggressive lol. Certain vlts have a very blue hue to them that some mind some don’t. I mainly use the xr60blue for windshields and I absolutely love the film. Nothing compares in the heat rejection department.  Like any other film take the good with the bad but overall great company and great film (if you hand cut) lol @jh812

Can’t speak for the llumar. But run from the suntek for sure. Too many issues. Then there’s the xpel... which I have nothing but good things to say. We use global but have sampled plenty of the xpel and it handles the same. Installs the same. Shrinks the same. BUT the xpel has the most aggressive adhesive I’ve ever seen. Screw brand recognition 99% of our customers don’t know nor care what film we use. 

Our bay isn’t climate controlled. This summer I saw as High as 120 degrees in the shop. Past winter it was so cold that bottles of slip froze over night and actually had a beetle on day water froze between the glass and the film before I could squeegee it out. Film always stored laying flat. And I’ve got some bs rolls that I know are 10 years old.  Wouldn’t worry!

I took @jh812 advice a while back and actually switch my whole shop over to global. Hated the ceramic line with my previous manny because of haze. So I never sold it. Since picking up global MAN!  60% of film sales is ceramic. Can’t go wrong with global. 

Reverse roll everything here. With no to little contamination every time.... sounds crazy but after you shrink and prep inside. We use dollar tree windshield squeegees to wipe the liner off. Spray the liner side. Pick the corner. Spray as your peeling he liner half way. Spray film. Use one hands to wipe the liner back onto the film from middle outward.  Repeat on the opposite side BUT DONT PULL THE LINER ALL THE WAY TO THE OTHER STOPPING POINT. Leave about 1” spray and wipe from that line outward.  Spray outside of the entire liner. Roll it up doesn’t matter if it is pencil tight or broom handle loose honestly. Leave a few inches u rolled and the liner will be a hair long than that.  Pull liner back. Rack down a few inches of film.  Unroll while sliding your other hand along to lay it down as you go. Squeegee and done. 

Still wouldn’t work. They’d want medium-dark.  Or dedium lol. If I get another customer ask for 9% I’m gonna come unglued!  At least a dozen kids lately want 9%. Sorry. 5 10 20 30 35 50. That’s it

All lifetime warranty. NO ECONOMY FILMS! Draws in cheap asses and pisses higher end customers off. 

Dyed

HP

ceramic

and we sell 60% ceramic consecutively 

In my area for deep dyed film you’re looking at anywhere from $200-$250. Hp add $75. Ceramic would be $375-$500.  We only do ceramic on windshields and it’s $150 flat fee under 40”

Varies from region to region. Also what is the year make and model of the vehicle. What all are you wanting tinted on it. And then a lot of ringers have a good better best tier. So. Do you want economy job?  Deep dyed?  HP?  Carbon?  Ceramic?  Also completely depends on the film the installer uses. The guy that uses tint club is gonna be significantly cheaper than the guy that uses llumar or 3m. So many variables there

1 hour ago, ElmoHongZito said:

I am in Miami. This place is in Brickell and they do a ton of business. Executives coming thru there all day long to have their range rovers, porsches, mercedez, audi’s, and beamers, washed inside and out. I think they are reasonably priced because they do high volume and probably have aggressive wholesale pricing with 3M. 

 

I guess its impossible for me to know what they actually put on my car but I will tell you that everything seemed legit and they had sponsored 3M stuff everywhere.

You’ll be able to tell if it’s crystalline