Super Dave

I keep a white and a blue cut into a triangle. I have a Tri-Edge or two in the pouch, but rarely ever use them, always seem to pull the white card.

This is my double sided pealer board that my hubby and I built for my new shop. You cant see from this pic but I have an led light fixture in between the glasses to use as a light board also for tracing and cutting. Each end also has a holder for my heatgun. The size of wheels I chose makes this easy to roll around my shop.

Back to back
 

Morning everyone
I’ve used the cheap Wagner and the Jiffy for removal. On the roll ups I use the steamer to remove the film from the sides and bottom only then yank it off only because I hate cleaning glue out the sides and bottom sweeps and I normally pull the bottom seals to make the adhesive clean up easier especially if I’m retinting it. On the rear I bag with the steamer and use tintoff with a five way tool to scrape it off before I scrub it. Just make sure you cover the deck with a towel you don’t mind having glue all over it.

Here’s the pics

Man I'd be humble if I were the new guy at any shop, I can't understand the mindset, or the arrogance. I'm thinking he's mentally unstable.

it's enough of a crapshoot that I don't bother to steam side windows most of the time, just strip and go back for adheasive removal. Back glasses I always steam the hell out of and I usually have pretty good luck, sometimes you've gotta set it and forget it while you do the other windows.

@Super Dave no I still think it's a crap shoot. I still bag back glasses as much as possible. Every removal I get I still warm up the steamer (jiffy) and try the removal with it. If it comes off clean great, if not I just rip it off and use ATR from 44 tools to remove the glue. Now of course that's the sides and not the front windshield or back glass . Those I'd say 90% of them I bag with pretty good results.

I usually build a frame out of 1x4’s or 2x4’s and paint and them (or seal them). Then use the metal bracket Home Depot sells on the bottom mount. Mirror clips on sides and top. The bottom bracket can be cut down to whatever length you need. Most of this is not completely necessary, but it will look good on the finished wall. Also if you do a lot of tinting, having the frame let’s the dripping water fall more on the floor than running down the sheet rock and staining it. Another thing is that painting or sealing the wood will help it last longer if you plan on leaving it there for years. I’ve worked a couple places where the glass has just fallen off the wall and broke, due to the material (that is was secured to) being wet And rotten.

"Micro edge" yeah....
 
When that was a new tool the normal edges were 1/2"
 
Today that tools results are not a micro edge.

If it becomes too much just two piece that ho.

Just got my a$$ kicked by an old Chevy, had to do the right front window five f*****g times guess I woke up on the rookie side of the bed today
 
I'm so freaking tired I just two-stage installed on a window that I had already popped the panel and removed the seal.... 

It’s been a little while since I did one, but the back half was pretty straight forward, little bit awkward, but not hard at all. The only thing hard on that one is the windshield.

T 25 under arm rest, remove trim around door pull. Two more T 25's under that. Pop panel working from bottom up, then lift the panel up and off the door. Bombs Away!

Thanks @TNTLady

No offense and I mean no offense you really just need to work on shrinking. When I was learning windshields it did seem they were a little bit more of a struggle to me as well. I think though if you keep at it you'll get to where it's no big deal. Practice and cuss words makes perfect brotha.

I never have understood shrinking flat windows.... 

It really depends on the window, I prefer to hose it down! But certain things like some 1/4 glasses or a door that opens completely over your head. The water could bring trash into your install. On some of those, I don’t even wet the glass before install, only the film.

Did 5 of these today. All 4 doors and rear with CTX and then Air 80 on the windshields. Took one hour 30 minutes a piece. Think Ive got them down now that Ive done 13 of these in two weeks.

Global ceramic 25 on the whole front of this home.

2018 720S
20% ceramic 
Clear-Plex on windshield 

I've done it, I don't flush down my bottom edge and am very cautious with my solution on every windshield/window though. I wrapped my conqueror with a paper towel for the first couple passes on my bottom as well. Just never let water sit, or buy giant microfiber towels from soakshield or equivalent for easy and quick cleanup

Don't stop or avoid them, that takes away from your business, just be aware of the concerns and prevent any future problems. Same thing with everything we do, avoid water in dashes, ford rear view mirrors etc. Prevent a problem by being educated and prevent it. Don't avoid the cars or there will be more cars you won't do, than do.

Well, in answer to your question - No.
 
I think this topic has run it's course... locked for now. Bossman can veto this if he wishes.
 
 

Wet shrinking definitely still has it's place. If I've got a vehicle like a corvette that has too much curve on the side glass for a snap shrink then I'll wet shrink those. I like to learn and try basically every technique out there, they all have their place.