Super Dave

On stuff like that,  I’ll just set up a regular finger like your wet shrinking. Right in the middle of that bottom edge. ( on the peel board) pocket shrink it and start laying.

Porsche 918, I did a while back
Ceramic 20% doors
80% shield
 

That’s the other thing, no body used to do windshields!

And the ship is done

Bad reviews will always happen, biggest importance is having a professional response that another consumer can read.  Once you get a bad review, it is just a matter of getting more positive reviews to make up for it.  I always question any place that has a 5.0 on Google...there is always a crazy or two.  In GA the tint shop with the most reviews along with a 4.9/5 also offers discounts for reviews before they even touch the car.

That right there is why I never read reviews online about a company! Normal people don’t write them! You have to give discounts or some people pay others to write good ones, and most of the bad ones are just ignorant, unhappy people with too much time. 
Sounds like he has moisture in his tint (which in most cases will dry up)
and maybe have the shock sensor turned down.
niether problem is something that couldn’t be explained and or fixed with a simple phone call!

Windshields are killing me here, really need to take a day and relearn reverse roll. Haven't tried it in auto and haven't really done flat glass in over a decade. My back is killing me trying to Frankenstein em 

Morning y’all, nothing like dealing with a crying ass customer first thing in the morning. Especially on a 2009 trashed out charger

Yeah hell no to that! You need to be giving out the go away price  

morning 
 
@jh812  One more "semi-useless" tip to make your new more manageable = anything large that is on the floor and not on the walls..... put it on wheels(casters)    
 
Makes things so much easier.  My new 10 foot cutting table is on casters and it is easy to move it around if I have a larger vehicle come in.  Of course the big Matco Box is on wheels, but even the little stuff like cabinets and such are easy to roll around if I redesign for whatever reason.  Anyway,,, just a dumb tip that makes life easier.  

Well boys it's official.

I'm gonna be garage tinting like it's cool this summer.. finally  my 1 car apartment garage wasn't working and too far from ma clients. This year I make

@Super Dave   A Pontiac Vibe backglass is a pain in the a$$ by itself.  Sorry you got screwed on that one.  

I'm loving this thread! Keep it going!  bmw dealer has to have it right meow!!! The veteran salesmen up there don't even mess with my competition cuz they know   everybody that's thinking about chiming in please do so    

That’s one thing I can say... payment was never an issue until that one time... and from then on out I got payment when I picked vehicle up. Not when I dropped it off. I have 3 other dealerships I do a lot of work for that don’t even flinch at my prices. Cuz we’ll lets face it they’re gonna triple it anyways so more I charge the more they make!  But this shit with sending gravy to the fly by night asshole then call me for the shit that takes actual intelligence to complete isn’t gonna fly. I’m just curious if I shoulda handled it differently or if I’m justified in the outcome

When I get my windows tinted, I'm gonna rig my windows so the switches only work some of the times... with a ton of dog hair all over the inside, and pollen on the outside.
 
 

I’m sure there are a lot of different opinions on that one, but I would say if the install is clean, with no light gaps, it is good. I’m sure if it was a good install, the company that did it, would have no problem warranting the film if it did ever peel. I think it comes down to the vehicle more than ( a top loader vs. bottom loader) I do both ways, and some vehicles just aren’t necessary to go under the seal, so I don’t on those.
i do my Ford trucks the same @quality tintz

I’m sure there are a lot of different opinions on that one, but I would say if the install is clean, with no light gaps, it is good. I’m sure if it was a good install, the company that did it, would have no problem warranting the film if it did ever peel. I think it comes down to the vehicle more than ( a top loader vs. bottom loader) I do both ways, and some vehicles just aren’t necessary to go under the seal, so I don’t on those.
i do my Ford trucks the same @quality tintz

I always gauge my bottom to land 1/8-1/4" below the inside rub rail. Compare outside sweep to primary inside and set (bottom) film edge accordingly before trimming sides and top. Have always taught that. 
 
Have always avoided installing below the secondary sweep since; 1) it is softer than the primary and 2) don't want me or another tinter to have hassles removing film and residual adhesive in the future.

@quality tintz 
where did you get a kit with all of them in it? I’ve used only the little orange plus I think. It looks like they make quite a few. I’ve beet using the red little foot quite a bit, but they tear up quickly.

Congrats tm! 

I’ve always cut the white cards into a triangle. Been using the ones with the 1 pointy corner lately. When it gets nicked, I’ve been using that smooth-it thing now. Only had it a couple weeks, but so far so good. 

Thanks, I really don’t have time for removal anymore. Hopefully soon, I can hire some help and it won’t be such a big deal. I generally tell the customer that removal usually runs $200 on a full vehicle. (It can vary depending on how much time it takes). But truthfully, I could charge more and it still wouldn’t be worth it. When you are working alone, You could get out 2-4 other full jobs in the same amount of time. (Depending on the cars of coarse) thanks for the feedback everyone!