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Xpel; rookie (me) popped air pocket and nicked paint
Thanks for the reply! I will see what happens. I tested the paint on a scrap of PPF I had sitting around, the it seems really secure. Just for perspective, I attached a photo of my goof. It really was a small divot, just bugged me that I did it at all. I did place a very small bit of paint on the top of the exposure. Living in MN, rust is always the concern, so I am hoping I have this sealed. While I know that PPF can't heal a cut like this, it was very flat so the exposure should hopefully be minimal. (What looks like a fold is the reflection of a seam in the ceiling) -
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Xpel; rookie (me) popped air pocket and nicked paint
Sometimes customers show up with a few chips but no touch up paint to fix them before the install. I have had pretty good luck putting a few drops of touch up paint in a syringe and injecting that under the film into the chip once they come back with the paint. You might want to try that when that paint on top washes off.- 1
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flat glass commercial and residential installer needed New York / New jersey area
Looking for a flat glass installer with experience NY / NJ area call 212 401-1228 -
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Reimbursement for warranty work on solar or safety film
Just out of curiosity - how much do different manufacturers pay for labor for warranty work on solar and safety films? Thanks! -
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Marks appearing on the window after tint removal
I would go at it with a few chemicals to see what might work and definitely have some steel wool like @Tintguy1980 mentioned. Wouldn't hurt to tape off the edge of the frame and use some plastic sheeting to keep the chems off the paint and rince everything after. Chems I might try: 1. 3m adhesive remover in the red can (not aerosol) 2. Spot Shot 3. Rapid Remover Or maybe just a tablespoon of soap in a bottle of water and a scraper blade. Alcohol won't always do it depending on what the adhesive is polar towards, and can sometimes seem to harden it. If you are BLADING THE GLASS, make a conscious effort to ALWAYS HAVE ONE ARM BEHIND YOUR BACK. Failure to do so can send you to the hospital quickly...this was a tough lesson that I and many others learned the hard way!!!- 2
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We are hiring experienced individuals LAS VEGAS NV
Looking to hire a few window tinters and wrappers for the following locations: Palmdale, CA And Las Vegas, NV Fulltime or Part time. Compensation will be discussed in person.702-909-0202 -
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Experienced Tinter- Inland Empire- 1,500-2,000 salary based on experience
Looking for a tinter with experience in the trade, willing to pay $1,500-$2,000 salary based on experience. We are a high-volume shop working with updated equipment and highest quality materials, you will be working alongside an experienced tinter to complete each vehicle All film is cut by plotter Monday - Friday 8:00am - 5:00pm Saturday 8:00am - 3:00pm You must bring your own tools and are required to show up on time and complete work in a timely manner Please call and ask for Ronnie 619-339-2211 -
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Streaks after window tint
I hope he didn't; makes for excellent business goodwill and PR.- 1
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Marks appearing on the window after tint removal
Sounds like you just experienced dry adhesive, which chemically forms a bond between glass and adhesive. It is the most successful adhesive for long term visual quality and bond strength (longevity). It IS a real bear to remove at any point after it chemically cures to the glass (usually within 30 days). Lots of blades and elbow grease for sure. My method was to scrape a strip and yank, scrape a strip and yank ... again and again until time to remove the residual adhesive. There are not many 'safe' chemicals that can be used to 'easily' remove it. I do know that a dry adhesive will come away from the surface of glass a little easier when the surface temp is below 40 F. Who has that kind of opportunity other than those in Canada/Alaska type environments. Sad. You can try using 000 or 0000 steel wool in an attempt to remove those marks. Outside of this I cannot remember any others ideas for tackling that.- 5
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Streaks after window tint
Yeah, dual-pane glazing units can fail at any point in time from day 1 and up. It's rare in the first couple of seasonal cycles, but you never know until it shows itself. Dual and Triple pane systems rely on the seal between glass and spacer. Even there they can have a single seal; glass to spacer, or a double seal that wraps the outer edges and seals (encapsulates) spacer and glass as well. The latter is found in high quality glazing systems. The former brings trouble before its time. The gas or dead air space between the panes has zero to little impact of failure of seals. Once a seal is compromised (for whatever reason), moisture intrusion occurs. It can be visible to the eye when cool and it can be microscopically invisible. What produces the visible lines, smudges, spots, etc. is the desiccant (located in the spacer to absorb any minute moisture). Kind of like the dry packets used in shipping goods. Desiccant gets wet, heats up to vapor from sun exposure, it deposits on the interior of the system and once the sun dries it, you get a number of different aforementioned looks; some obvious, some not so much until film is applied. You can have the one sash replaced, either through warranty based on seal failure or by out of pocket cost. Be sure you let the window folks know the other panes do not display the same as the one in question. They have a tendency to baselessly blame seal failure on applied window film, which our industry has dispelled through long term studies using the 'right' window film for the system. Good luck- 1
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