Jake

1 hour ago, drtint said:

I got a bag of them years ago from my cousin who is diabetic ( hard to get otherwise). Been using the small insulin ones for years and not a single issue. 

I have had some in shop I have shown how to use them properly and not leave behind any issues. Issue comes in where someone decides to give it a try and goes straight into the bubble (instead of parallel through the side of the bubble, as in having blood drawn) and into the paint or clear coat causing a micro dimple to the surface and will be seen when done. The small ones for diabetics and pets leave absolutely no evidence in the material or the adhesive layer.... I see more issues pulling the material up and creating adhesive lines introducing contamination back under the film than anything.

 

 

I agree. I hate getting the weird look when I go to the pharmacy to buy them. You don't need a prescription to buy them.I always though "if I am a drug addict wouldn't you rather have me use clean needles". I ended up ordering them online. I only use them one time so they are super sharp. I bought 15 boxes of 100 needles, so i would have to get any for  a long time.

I opened a shop years ago in Idaho. I am in Utah. Had a old employee running it. I put up all the money to get it started. The deal was as soon as my investment was paid back he would have 50% ownership in the shop. My thought was he would have ownership their for he would run it like it was his own. It lasted about a year and cost me a ton of money as I ended up having to buy out the rest of our 3 year lease and shut it down. If it is local to you it maybe a different story. I used to have no problem getting good employees that stayed long term. But in the last 3 years or so I can't even get anyone decent in my shop now. Maybe it's me getting older and just don't have the patience to train anymore.

2 hours ago, STEK HOWARD said:

You definitely should not be using a needle to pop water bubbles, this will only create a permanent defect that will most likely haunt you and the customer down the road.

How so? Every PPF installer I have ever known will use a hypodermic needle to pull out a small air pocket if needed myself included. I have never once seen an issue.

Straight 70% alky will burn the adhesive. Most installer will use anywhere between 10-20% 70% alky to 80/90% water mix. Cleaning debris from the edged of the film will work best with a soapy water mixture. Then use an alky mixture to rinse the soapy solution to tack down.

I have a friend in Vegas that has been doing a lot of stainless elevator panels. 

Did they give you a warranty card with the install? In the Suntek warranty (same film as Llumar) it states "to prevent lifting do NOT use automatic car washes". That being said, in our area we have a large car wash that has monthly memberships. If we told all clients they can not use it we would loose a lot of jobs.We do a good amount of PPF. We have had some lifting from the car wash, but it is rare and we warranty it. You have to remember the film is meant to be removed. When you go through a car wash with a billion psi of water spraying on the car if it catches the edge of the film it can lift. Also wrapping edges will help stop the chance of lifting. IMHO all ppf jobs should be wrapped where possible.

I have a friend that installed a lot of auto and flat glass ASWF film in Vegas. All the auto went to crap but he has had no issues with any of the flat glass films. I think it has been about 5 years or so now that it has been on the glass.

I have pulled paint on a Ferrari. It was about 10 years ago on a 460. I know others that have also. But I agree with you. I wouldn't pass up on the install. 

It seems to me most windows are wider then they are tall so you have more area to shrink top and bottom.

Pic's are going to be helpful.

I don't know what docking is. But what I think you may be talking about is using a Matte PPF film like Stealth on Gloss paint and being able to see gloss in areas the film may need to be relief cut to fit angles.The Stealth film will not conform like a vinyl. Although I do find it more conformable then the Ultimate it is still a ppf. When we do matte film over gloss we mostly will hand cut to be able to cover as much as possible. That being said ,when you wrap a car matte, you are taking most the light reflection away from the paint. You will be surprised how much a small area of gloss paint will take on the matte look. At the end of the day as much as we all like to think we are masters of conforming film, it is still a 2 denominational product being installed on a 3 denominational surface. Physics still apply.

3 hours ago, smartie2shoes said:

Secondary Edit: My apologies for speaking in terms of window film patterns instead of PPF. What I did learn about PPF patterns is that no one applies, pulls and strokes a PPF pattern the same as all other users so just that one variable can lead to a poor 'fit' review. That said, I was privy to PPF complaints during the first few years LLumar was providing them up until late 2015 ... the consensus from the field was seemingly more so described as DynamicATL put it. I am no fan of PPF and didn't even want any part of gathering patterns for PCS at the time.

 

Also, always remember the old adage; one man's trash is another man's treasure. This holds true for patterns from any precut software.

 

WF

I was once the main provider of patterns for PCS (approx. from 2003-2012 model years). There were other sources during that period but, by and large there were far fewer complaints on patterns I provided. I was pulled from the team after speaking directly with a couple of PCS users who were not happy with pattern fit. I simply said to each that quite possibly their standards for pattern fit was higher than what PCS could provide.

 

During the height of my time with the PCS team we came to understand that there existed many variables in glass top edges, how the knife was held while cutting top edges, one person's desire for added amount side to side compared to another's wish to just barely cut out light intrusion, user expectation toward fit, and the fact that black border material was never consistent from car to car. All these listed here were endlessly verified yet, complaints continued even after passing this info on to users.

 

He!!, I even took a front door pattern from a Mustang that a complaint was submitted on and ran to the local Ford dealer to test fit. The pattern fit nicely on 3 out 7 front doors. Until users of these precut systems come to understand and accept these variables exist, 'fit' complaints will always flow to providers and negative reviews will always be stated.  Variables are the sole reason software was updated to allow users to make subtle adjustments to patterns. If you are expecting the top micro-edge to fit precisely along the glass edge leaving no gap every single time, the Mustang front door example previously mentioned shows just how futile that expectation is.

Although I do agree with all your points above, when it comes to PPF it is pretty much agreed upon that the DAP patterns fitment is much better then all other software. So until the other software company's have patterns consistent with DAP then something is wrong that can be addressed to improve on the fitment of those patterns.

15 hours ago, Saved! said:

Yea.Tell that to someone who lost a loved one sitting at a red light and been ran into by some jerk who wasn't paying attention. Drinking.smoking .texting.

When some tinter covered  up the light witch could of and should of been seen .  A split second can make the difference.

Your telling me that the light don't matter . That's why in 1986 is was standard on all passengers cars and 1994 all trucks .

It a federal motor vehicle. standard.!

I sleep good at night knowing im not responsible for doing something so petty. 

So sorry about it. Dont take it so personal. As for me thanks ill just take a 🚌. Your response is funny. Ha ha. Its safety.Frist 

Your argument may be valid if covering the third brake light made it opaque. But the light is still clearly visible through the window film when lit. Even with 5% the light will shine through. 

60" is the biggest at the moment

I would say you are better off finding a good brand name used one then getting a new off brand cheapo.

Thanks i will give them a try. I also am going to order the NT Cutter 30 degree blades for clear bra . Olfa 30degree's are over $1 a piece. These are $10 for 50. https://www.amazon.com/NT-Snap-Off-Precision-50-Blade-BD-50P/dp/B009F6BMQQ

I am now trying to give my guys an hour. This way they can take care of things if they need to during that time, and they get a break. We are open 9-6pm. For me? I am with the other guys, what lunch break.

With Xpel Ultimate i use baby shampoo. With Suntek i used dawn Ultra. I felt the dawn gave a better tack with Suntek's less aggressive adhesive.

Well I will be the odd man out here. I have tried all different ways over my years installing. I flush the shiz out of my quarter windows before installing the film. I get my best results this way. This is after they have been thoroughly cleaned of course. What ever works for you is the best way. I always say you judge a good tinter buy his quarter glass.

Worst/hardest car would definitely be a Black AC Cobra I did for a MLB player. 

Potato potato , tomato tomato. 

12 hours ago, DynamicATL said:

100% cover it up...I have never seen a vehicle with the 3rd brake light cutout that looked good.  Some states it is illegal, but I would still do it in those states.  Also when shopping around, if the shop uses a plotter to cut the tint, ask them about of it.  I see most of the jobs with the 3rd brake light cutout coming from plotter shops.

You say you would still cover them. But in a state like Utah where have have had a annual  inspection you would be redoing quit a few back window from inspection failure.As of Jan 1st of this year we not longer have a safety inspection. It is still the law though. But with out the inspection to worry about I have not cut one out since. Hope it doesn’t bite me in the ass. 

You need a good accountant. Every state is different. It's the best money I spend. It is not near as much $$ as most people think.

These are the same customers that think the hair can just be vacuumed up.

On 1/12/2018 at 10:51 AM, Slick said:

Been using their stuff for over 6 months now.  Zero issues.  Awesome scratch coat, really durable.  Nice color.  really fast set up time even in cold conditions.  I was using Global and absolutely loved it, but was having a problem with supply issues, so gave the XPel tint a try (a former employee of mine recommended I give them a try when she heard about my issues) and am sooooo glad I did.   

I have been using it for about 6 months also, and agree with everything Slick said. I use the CS-black and the XR-black Ceramic.