Tintguy1980

Most seasoned window tinters in the US know that the vast majority of film makers, converters and suppliers are in bed with each other. The big guys might buy a component or more from a smaller guy and vice versa.
 
Last I knew Garware was the only vertically integrated window film manny in the world (i.e., capable of manufacturing every component needed to construct any of their film offerings), with Eastman (formerly CPFilms) coming in second to Garware's capabilities.
 
That's about all you'll get out of this tintguy because all others should be considered converters (i.e., having to buy more than one component to construct a film product).
 
I might be way off one this because it's been too many years since being immersed the industry.
 
Nice of you to pass through. I believe any cold shoulder feel from visiting may be based in the fact that NDA's rule the industry at many levels and those slinging the film daily don't give two how it's made or who makes it as long as it will last.

I have three scenarios that come to mind (all back before net reviews):
 
1. Regular customer accuses us of scratching his hood. After explaining we don't work at the front of the car (vehicles were always backed in and we didn't do visor strips in those days), nor do we f**k around on people's hoods. He stood his ground saying something about a newbie doing it. I was the one that tinted his car so at that point I told him to get the hell out of my shop. Yes, he got a freebie, but I never had to see his azz again.
 
2. A new hire did the fronts, I did the side quarters, she bitched about the side quarters, which led to a redo. I had the new guy redo the quarters and she bitched about his work. Third attempt was still a downer so I simply asked her to return and leave her car for another attempt.
 
She calls asking if the car is ready, I say yes ma'am. When her husband rolled in and she got out looking at her car and storming in, everyone in the shop scattered but me. She came in asking why we removed all the tint from her car and I simple replied with, "Ma'am, we couldn't [please you on three different occasions and felt we would not be able to meet your expectations on the fourth try, so here's a refund check plus $20 for the gas used to come back over and over; take your business to another shop. Thank you".
 
As she swung around to leave, she bumped her husband and he reached over and smiled with an extended hand to shake mine.
 
3. Naples FL, 1993, very affluent community; lady comes with her cadi saying the dealership explained that I would take care of it and pointing out something in every window. This was a dealership sent vehicle with high recommendations about our reputation. She stops me at some point and asks why I didn't look at the back window and I says well if its the same as the others there was no point.
 
Meanwhile my friend who owned a shop across town also walked around following us and shrugged his shoulders out here sight. I offered a full refund IF she had someone else remove it because I saw no reason to remove such a fine install. She did and came back for her refund with no tint and I asked what the dealership charged her ... $100 for that 4 dr sedan ... I says, well how about that, they gave you a deal because they didn't up-charge from what they paid me.
 
Details guys a couple doors down asked why I gave her money back ... She was looking at the inside pimpling of the film surface that was stuck to the black ceramic material around the windows, better to see her taillights heading away.
 
Moral of the stories told in this whole thread is, when you're in the business for years and are good at what you do, you pretty much can spot the customers that think installed film is suppose to look like factory glass and those who are lying through their teeth to get a freebie.

Perforated vinyl might be your only solution. Unfortunately it will reduce the amount of light coming into the room from those doors, but it will eliminate any exterior surface reflection and still allow visibility out the doors. Also consider doing partial glass coverage. Hopefully, you don't have an HOA to deal with.
https://www.amazon.com/VViViD-Perforated-Privacy-Air-Release-Adhesive/dp/B01BLVCU4A?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A10111992WJRYRFBZH9IS&th=1

The physics involved simply put = heat always seeks cold and therefore when cooling the interior, the absorbed heat in the glass migrates to the inside where you are using AC. There, Capt Obvious to the rescue.
 
Have you considered looking for a solid whiteout static-cling vinyl material that you could cut to fit the outside of the glass shape? This would certainly reflect the sun's energy away from the dark glass and assist in shaving a few degrees off the internal temp.. The static-cling would allow for easy removal when wanting to relocate. It does require the glass to be clean before applying. The beauty of static-cling is it's reusable over and over again.
 
Example: https://www.amazon.com/VELIMAX-Blackout-Blocking-Whiteout-Darkening/dp/B08CXP3RK4?th=1

@Tintguy1980This coating reminds me of the old school flow-on. Kinda brownish, scrapes horrible if you accidentally get into it. Like ATL says, you can feel that something is there if you rub your hand across it. 
 
The hydrophobic glass that was shedding water was fun. Now a bunch of the detail lots are using a ceramic infused glass cleaner that acts about the same. I've had some luck breaking it with a white(least aggressive) clay bar.

I'd be searching the Net for a supply to complete this. It's really best to let the film set up a couple weeks before installing a sealant product.

Yeah, it would be cool to use that. 👍

I'm curious about whether this is the same coating that interferes with film tacking up well? This was an issue a few years (maybe a decade) back and the solution was to remove the coating using a high grade glass polish (Zaino12 comes to mind)>
 
Is there anyone who can enlighten me on this, since I've been in retirement and don't know if this coating is something different?

Going out on my own after 13years and I was struggling finding a logo so I drew this up and had it scaled and digitized. I’m over the moon with how it came out. 

Looks like something sneezed out from food in the teeth.
 
Anyone else ever have that happen?

I remember back in the day people getting upset that I didn't match the new glass to the old one, color and all.

It varies wildly to be able to nail it down; you'll have to ask the dealer of your choice.

That's the norm from the early 80's and is how I was doing them when first getting in the industry. As the edges migrated closer to the edge, I would migrate as well. Today, no shaving accept an occasional frameless, but the gap is <1/32.
 
WFT looks old enough to know them days.

That's the norm from the early 80's and is how I was doing them when first getting in the industry. As the edges migrated closer to the edge, I would migrate as well. Today, no shaving accept an occasional frameless, but the gap is <1/32.
 
WFT looks old enough to know them days.

That's the norm from the early 80's and is how I was doing them when first getting in the industry. As the edges migrated closer to the edge, I would migrate as well. Today, no shaving accept an occasional frameless, but the gap is <1/32.
 
WFT looks old enough to know them days.

Perforated vinyl might be your only solution. Unfortunately it will reduce the amount of light coming into the room from those doors, but it will eliminate any exterior surface reflection and still allow visibility out the doors. Also consider doing partial glass coverage. Hopefully, you don't have an HOA to deal with.
https://www.amazon.com/VViViD-Perforated-Privacy-Air-Release-Adhesive/dp/B01BLVCU4A?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A10111992WJRYRFBZH9IS&th=1

Perforated vinyl might be your only solution. Unfortunately it will reduce the amount of light coming into the room from those doors, but it will eliminate any exterior surface reflection and still allow visibility out the doors. Also consider doing partial glass coverage. Hopefully, you don't have an HOA to deal with.
https://www.amazon.com/VViViD-Perforated-Privacy-Air-Release-Adhesive/dp/B01BLVCU4A?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A10111992WJRYRFBZH9IS&th=1

Great idea. Thanks TG. 

40 front sides, 35 rear sides and back, if I didn't have factory solar control glass. No windshield; been there, done that, and not looking to do the task of R & R on any car.
 
I have a black interior, including dash. Hot as f**k sitting in the sun. Bought a beige dash mat and the temp off the dash dropped dramatically.
 
Illegal? Not so much a worry involving enforcement, however, insurance accident investigations can leave you paying the tab on all involved.
 
 

It is in the US if it's classified as a passenger vehicle. I've noticed more and more vehicles being classified as MPVs on the Vin tags in the doors jamb and they're mostly shipping with privacy glass in the rear. I also believe that in the international market (certain markets anyway) they're allowed privacy glass from the factory on sedans

Um, it appears Mercedes IS installing factory solar control (dark) glass on the back of sedans.
 
There's no way to get an exact color match to factory glass using after-market window film. Close, but no cigar in the results.

Maybe a straight-dyed film product would come closest, but anything with ceramic or metal deposition would be a crap-shoot.

The difference between a ceramic film and crystalline is the fact that crystalline reflects near infrared whereby a ceramic film strictly absorbs near infrared. Personally, I'd pick crystalline over any ceramic on the market.
 
Window film, no matter how well it performs, on car glass only works to keep the interior cooler when the car is in motion. Sitting in the sun all day, well, window film loses to the sun. It certainly does help in slowing the build up of heat in the car when parked, but it will still take your breath away after a full day exposure time.

The physics involved simply put = heat always seeks cold and therefore when cooling the interior, the absorbed heat in the glass migrates to the inside where you are using AC. There, Capt Obvious to the rescue.
 
Have you considered looking for a solid whiteout static-cling vinyl material that you could cut to fit the outside of the glass shape? This would certainly reflect the sun's energy away from the dark glass and assist in shaving a few degrees off the internal temp.. The static-cling would allow for easy removal when wanting to relocate. It does require the glass to be clean before applying. The beauty of static-cling is it's reusable over and over again.
 
Example: https://www.amazon.com/VELIMAX-Blackout-Blocking-Whiteout-Darkening/dp/B08CXP3RK4?th=1

The difference between a ceramic film and crystalline is the fact that crystalline reflects near infrared whereby a ceramic film strictly absorbs near infrared. Personally, I'd pick crystalline over any ceramic on the market.
 
Window film, no matter how well it performs, on car glass only works to keep the interior cooler when the car is in motion. Sitting in the sun all day, well, window film loses to the sun. It certainly does help in slowing the build up of heat in the car when parked, but it will still take your breath away after a full day exposure time.

The difference between a ceramic film and crystalline is the fact that crystalline reflects near infrared whereby a ceramic film strictly absorbs near infrared. Personally, I'd pick crystalline over any ceramic on the market.
 
Window film, no matter how well it performs, on car glass only works to keep the interior cooler when the car is in motion. Sitting in the sun all day, well, window film loses to the sun. It certainly does help in slowing the build up of heat in the car when parked, but it will still take your breath away after a full day exposure time.