Film_Pro

Poly sprayer 2, thought everyone used them. They last for years

Spray it down with your tint solution and rub it out with a clean micro. It willl blend it in and dry fine.

why you don`t talk about xpel loyalty to their dealers....
because is NONE!
i been 3 years exclusive dap and xpel ppf , than you guys decide to wipe me down from your dealer list because some greed decisions , to force me to buy a minimum , now after 5 years of dap fees and credit payed for cuts , new rules, keep your rules Jeff , is America and is an competitive market!
i will always have options , but the way you treat your dealers/ customers just turn people off to deal with you guys..... take that to your boss!
yes, Suntek has better customer service and a good line of products , tell them that too
 
 
 
 

I pass on that car. Too many glass cracking issues for me to even want to deal with it. Plus I don’t carry 60” rolls of auto film. I’m more than happy to refer a different company for that car and let them take the chance of cracking the BG. 

Maybe no one else will tell you. Don't waste your time sanity and money. Pay to get it done.

impressive is not the word-it's way beyond impressive.
i'm just trying to wrap my head around the thought of doing 14 cars on average a day-holy crap
14 hour day??  pulling cars in and out, cutting, cleaning, shrinking, applying. and no comebacks!!!!!  DAMN!!!!
hands down-best i've ever heard of
 
i've never wanted to meet a fellow tinter, but you, sir, are someone who i would like to meet and also learn from

Maybe no one else will tell you. Don't waste your time sanity and money. Pay to get it done.

Maybe no one else will tell you. Don't waste your time sanity and money. Pay to get it done.

It depends on who you order the kit from.  If ordered by phone through customer service, we (XPEL) offer wrapped edges when requested.  I'm with the others on this though.  It's not a matter of spending time.  In fact, the longer you take on ppf, the worse in turns out, in many cases.

Yea, get it. If you will be sad when your bumper is chipped then it's worth it. It will be chipped

Im going to start tucking more on the easy ones. Ive even been pulling just the front and tucking the back if i can. I have been mainly pulling stuff on the easy ones to get better at removing stuff and from just getting bored. Now I can get most panels or seals off in about 15 seconds to 2 minutes probably. Just comes down to  choosing which method is quicker, cleaner and less aggravating. 

Just spray the entire cloth area as if you are detailing the car and dry it as good as you can with your towel. It will dry uniform then. Every panel out there needs a good cleaning.

Maybe consider trying a bulldozer next time. 

Poly sprayer 2, thought everyone used them. They last for years

XPEL does not design patterns to install this way.  We intend for bumpers to be started at the centermost alignment point(s).  Often this is some combination of the tow hook, parking sensor, headlight, and radiator inlet.
 
I cannot speak for other pattern companies though.

All depends on the car and how many installers are on the case. Usually if there is a badge in the middle then I would start from there, other times I will start from underneath a headlight and work left and right or even a wheel arch and go coast to coast. I guess what I am saying is there are no hard and fast rules. 
 
Steve

Amendment to what I was saying. As PPF Distributing mentioned, I would say either way would bring the correct results and would be up to the comfort of the installers. I like to anchor sides first and some may be more comfortable anchoring from the center. Thanks

I disagree with drtint on the pattern side. I know from our design team's perspective they design the bumpers most of the time to be installed starting from the center. We also have a mapping system in place within the software to point out where to start and where to go. I would think a majority of bumper patterns would start from center and then move out but that is more so based on the drawer of the pattern itself. 

The DAP is very good, but I think some kits coverage is excessive in spots and makes it harder to install in certain valleys etc where it isn't needed.  Aside from that, I would wrap one layer of the light green window microfiber around my squeegee and go over edges to absorb any excess solution.  Then move towel to dry section and repeat on all edges. This will help get it out without letting it run back.

Having the top edge locked down before shaving will prevent that. I use it for frameless windows or when I get a plotter pattern that doesn't have an acceptable fit up top (particularly common on replacement glass) you just bump the pattern up a little bit and shave away. Same thing if I'm hand cutting, if I don't get that perfect micro edge from my initial cut but the rest of it is good then no biggie just bump and shave. I see it as just another tool in the box and you can never have too many in my opinion. 

I find precut is good for quick jobs, low end vehicles.
 
Most of my clients are car collectors and millionaires and people who trade in their car every year. I have no choice but to do everything in bulk, need to tuck all edges. The only thing i precut is all doors (manually extend all edges, dont like seeing that corner nib from software wrap edges options) also mirrors (some) and headlights or if something has an odd weird curve where you cant reach inside with the knife. Everything else i like doing by hand.

Going to cut from the DAP system tomorrow for the same car that was giving me issue. We will see if DAP lives up to the hype. Durango srt with hood vents. Water was pooling by these inserts. No matter how I stretched the film I would need trimming around these inserts. I'll report back

if you should need to trim, use these blades.  BD2000  Blades    30 Degree Carbon
 
https://www.amazon.com/NT-CUTTER-Precision-100-Blade-BD-2000/dp/B003B3F0SK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1528428053&sr=8-6&keywords=nt+30+degree+blades

You shouldn't have to trim kits very much.  If you are, you're either using the wrong program or putting them on differently than they were intended to install.

Try and use a heat gun to speed up the cure process so that the drying happens sooner. Should lend the chance to trim faster. Obviously don't melt it but use the dry heat to help with the evaporation. Then let it cool down for a few min and then you should be able to trim.