I forgot to ask about Low Angle Haze (LAH), do any particular films have less LAH than others?
Is LAH so much of a problem that it's better to avoid ceramic tint and go another kind of tint like SunTek CXP (CarbonXP) CXP
In the jurisdiction in which I live, we are allowed to have 35% in front and 20% in rear. I'm wondering @ what VLT% does the driver's visibility in adverse conditions like night time driving, storms, cloudy weather, fog, floods, etc., start being impacted?
Front side windows:
45.00%
43.00%
42.00%
41.00%
40.00%
39.00%
38.00%
37.00%
36.00%
35.00%
Rear Side Windows:
38.00%
33.00%
32.00%
31.00%
30.00%
29.00%
27.00%
25.00%
23.00%
22.00%
21.00%
20.00%
Rear Window:
45.00%
43.00%
42.00%
41.00%
40.00%
39.00%
38.00%
37.00%
36.00%
35.00%
33.00%
32.00%
31.00%
30.00%
29.00%
27.00%
25.00%
23.00%
22.00%
21.00%
20.00%
If the only tinter providing MEP Films is a mobile tinter that uses more water than normal and I don't have a garage to tint in then would you avoid the tinter and opt for a tinter with a workshop that uses either:
SunTek CIR (CeramicIR) CIR
SunTek CXP (CarbonXP) CXP
SunTek Evolve
Solargard VTX Pro Premium Ceramic (by the way, does anyone know where the Technical Spec sheet is, I tried finding to no avail)
XPEL Prime XR Black
Johnson Window Films InsulatIR IR
GLOBAL WINDOW FILMS QDP CERAMIC FILMS
Global OZ Window Films CBXtreme Ceramic
Your film might be sliding around in your GCC Jaguar V plotter due to several reasons. Firstly, ensure that the film is loaded correctly and securely in the plotter's rollers. Check for any debris or dirt on the rollers that could cause slippage. Additionally, ensure that the plotter's settings, such as speed and pressure, are appropriate for the type of film you're using. Using a tackier or adhesive-backed film can also help prevent sliding. Lastly, make sure the plotter's firmware and software are up to date to avoid any compatibility issues that could lead to film slipping during plotting.
MEP Films distribute Llumar in Australia.
I for one have been using Llumar since 1984 and have very rarely had or seen any issues with quality and that is why the brand is my go-to the majority of the time.
Sun Tek have some good automotive films that I like, but other than those, I am strictly a Llumar user.
BTW Eastman Chemical own both Llumar and SunTek so I imagine their film technology may be somewhat shared.
Hi guys,
Im new here and learning how to tint…
I live in Europe and to find tools and tints to buy here is very difficult.
I just got some tools and tint on this website:
tintwrap.eu
This website was the only one I could find some felt squeegee and high quality films with the best price to deliver in Europe without ripping me off.
the delivery was quick, about 2 days.
and the material was high quality as well.
Do you guys have any other websites suggestions?
Thanks
I've never had PPF done before and never had issues with the paint on the car looking bad.
I usually park in the garage and have had Kia Casa White - Solid on my Sportage since 2015 and no noticeable issues with the paintwork.
The new car is Glacier White - Solid
I've been told that PPF is beneficial, but very few people I know have actually opted to get it for their cars.
I've been told there are many benefits such as:
No need to ever wax or use sealant after the coat is applied
Stops the paint fading
Makes cars super easy to wash
Prevents Acid Etching from animal contaminants, hard water spots, tree sap
UV Rays
Acid Rain (although I don't think I've ever seen acid rain)
Repels Water & Grime
Saves Water
Will not wash off, crack or peel
Non-abrasive
Self-Healing Properties: repair minor surface scratches and swirl marks on their own when exposed to heat.
So is this all simply marketing spin to provide another product to the market without any noticeable benefits?
Does the average family car really need PPF or is this more the reserve of the show car, tuner set, car aficionado niche?
Brands
SystemX Australia
Johnson Paint Protection
3M Cleargard Paint Protection Pro Series Film
OMNI Nano-Ceramic Surface Coating
3M Scotchgard Paint Protection Film Pro Series
Ceramic Coating Package
Graphene Coating Package
SunTek PPF
OZ Paint Protection Film
OZ Paint Protection Films
GTechniq Ceramic Coatings
Tint Haus 10H Ceramic Coating
XPEL Ultimate Fusion
Swissvax handmade wax range.
Opticoat Pro
Ceramic Pro 9H
CQuartz Finest
Pompanazzi
Gtechniq Crystal Serum
Follow up:
Attached is the performance data for Johnson's Resi/Comm window films and if you look to the bottom you'll see DN50 has a solar absorption of 39%, which is well below the threshold of concern which is generally accepted as 50% absorption (with no shadow). With a straight line shading from the roof this does increase the risk, which is usually low for straight line shading compared to other types. I've also attached a pdf of Johnson's film-to-glass chart which is used to determine how safe a film is. The thicker the glass the higher the risk; you say 6mm tempered and 4mm is the cracked one (interior pane).
The question now is what compass direction do these panels face?
In the end, I'll just suggest you hook back up with the person that installed it and get his input. He had to have been comfortable suggesting that film. I still believe it's a one off cracked panel and the rest will be fine. It takes 2 seasonal cycles to know for sure. Truly your call as to whether or not to replace with something lighter such as DN60.
Here's more helpful info that helps you question the glass type on the interior; is it plate or is it heat-strengthened (HS). I believe it is plate and not tempered or HS. Why?
Plate glass with suffer thermal shock if the edge temperature is different than the center of the glass by 50 degrees F.
Heat strengthened requires 100 degree F difference, and
Tempered requires 200 degree F difference.
Ryker chimed in and that stimulated further review. Good Luck with this.
johnsonFilmToGlass_2021.pdf
Whatever that glass is that cracked it is NOT tempered.
DN 50 is pretty high solar absorption and your saying shadows too so you probably need a more reflective film.
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