DynamicATL

Honestly, I would bet the tint shop is correct and it was defective from the start. This is not uncommon, many models are bad for this...you can literally wipe a micro fiber across the defroster lines and move them. There have been threads on here about Audi, BMW, Chevrolet, Chrysler, and Porsche having this issue. Personally, if we caught this before tinting it, we would not cover it. It would need to be covered by the dealer since it is most likely defective glass.

Yeah, that is the problem with dealerships, as soon as you get anything done to your vehicle they want to void warranties. We had an issue with a Honda dealership when my wife took her new Honda HRV in for a dying battery. They instantly blamed the led lights and remote starter system for draining the battery even though this is a common issue. Cool, we told them we would take everything out to see if it still persists even though I knew that had nothing to do with it. The next day I was taking it to the shop, I noticed the gauge cluster was milky looking and fogged up. When we pull it out, they clearly dropped it and super glued it back together. There was two brackets glued back on, glue was all along the seam where the front/back of the cluster meet, etc. We took it back with everything removed, the battery issue still there, and now with this new issue. They tried to blame the shop (they didn't know I own the shop) saying that we had to tap into the back of the cluster. That's when I go from 0-100 quickly since that is completely false since it was only a remote starter add-on and speed is now tracked through GPS, so need to hook up a speed sense wire. We ended up going through 3 different bosses for them to finally admit they probably broke it and they replace it. Now she is not comfortable taking it back to them and looking to trade it in on something that is not a Honda.

On the tint side of things, you can only completely remove portions of a defroster not loosen it, if it was 3 days old it was a manufacturers defect. Go to different dealer for the warranty work they're trying to blame the tint guy. This is not uncommon for this to be a manufacturers defect and 3 days in very likely is and your service manager is likely full of it. The grids are either loose or not, especially 3 days in..
I'll also add if the tint guy did do anything to cause a defect in the defroster it would more likely happen removing tint or happen on a much older car not a 3 day old car. You should thank the tint guy for pointing this issue out early for you. Don't listen to car dealers, go to another car dealer and just say it was loose so you're not giving them an out by saying it was at a tint place that didn't install tint on defective defroster grid. 
If you're going to try make the tint guy pay for a glass he didn't touch (or in your words "..he didn't apply tint") and warned you it was defective, then i'd tell you to kiss my ass you're lucky i'm even replacing it let alone OEM. Youre lucky the tint guy doesn't just tell you to get lost.

Honestly, I would bet the tint shop is correct and it was defective from the start. This is not uncommon, many models are bad for this...you can literally wipe a micro fiber across the defroster lines and move them. There have been threads on here about Audi, BMW, Chevrolet, Chrysler, and Porsche having this issue. Personally, if we caught this before tinting it, we would not cover it. It would need to be covered by the dealer since it is most likely defective glass.

If you have been happy with Suntek and feel comfortable with the installer, go that route. CXP (Carbon XP) is the same film as Carbon just with more heat rejection. If you want more heat rejection than CXP, they also have a Ceramic called CIR. 3M Crystalline and Huper Ceramic are probably the best deals since those prices are low for CA...shops I know in CA are closer to the $1000 range for those films. The absolute worst deal is F1 Pinnacle being that is higher than 3M/Huper and is nowhere near as much heat rejection. They do have a Stratos line which is what I would expect in that price range. Suntek/Llumar/F1 is a traditional charcoal appearance, Crystalline will have a brownish hue, Huper Ceramic will have a slight reflective appearance.

Absolutely. We sell both Llumar/3M and was previously a Huper dealer. I had Huper Ceramic on one of my cars and switched to Crystalline when we picked up 3M. I felt a huge difference in heat rejection...my tinter said the same thing when he switched his vehicle too. Unlike Ceramic films that absorb the heat, Crystalline redirects a good portion of it away from the vehicle. This means less radiating heat inside the vehicle when the it is not moving. The only downside with Crystalline is the color, some people don't like it. Personally, the only shade I don't like is the 20% since the brown hue is very noticeable.
 
With that being said, since your coming from Suntek Carbon you will be happy with CXP or any of the Ceramic options since it will block more heat. So you don't have to go to the most expensive, the others will be a dramatic jump and noticeable. Think of Crystalline as a car that top speed is 230 and the others are 190...either way you're getting a fast car.
 
As for Solar Gard, I personally never used it so can't say much about it. I've always thought of it as a mid-grade film like Suntek but never heard any bad stories about it.

Both those answers are probably the most common you'll find. Or at least they should be.
 
Once you know how to tint flat glass, know that it's a skilled trade and you should be compensated accordingly. Don't give it away for peanuts. 
 
 
 

I take the square foot of the window and add a few inches per side to account for wasted film. Then I have a set per square foot rate for Reflective/Dual Reflective films and the rate increases for more expensive films. Then add on charges if a ladder is required, any equipment rentals are needed, and a driving charge that increases with distance. If the windows are french pane or more difficult than regular windows, the rate increases. I also have a minimum charge depending on the distance. So say someone wants just a door tinted but is 15 miles away, it is an automatic $500 charge. We only do 1-2 flat glass jobs a month since we are pretty expensive which works for me since it is a headache and we stay busy with automotive all year.

We get it. You don’t believe in PPF.  Thats great.  So dont comment on PPF if you dont have 20 years of experience selling and installing it. No ones going to comment on Flat Glass films if they arent in that segment.  I just dont see how, in any way, it is productive to keep down talking a product that is 1. Popular for new car owners that value the look of their car 2. Is a good product to sell for a shop that want to make a profit.  Now I remember why I got off this forum. 🤦 yall have fun 

Hey @TomTint, I respect and appreciate that you have an opinion, but man, time to move on I think. 
 
Now people are leaving the forum because of this and that kind of defeats the purpose. 
 
Plus this isn't the first scrap you've gotten into here lately.
 
I think you should take a break from here Tom. Thanks for understanding.

As far as clarity/quality goes they will be on the same level.  Overall heat rejection is almost the same but AIR 80 will block more Infrared Heat...86% versus 68%.  The only difference in warranty is Autobahn films have a transferable warranty to the next owner of the vehicle.  Personally I wouldn't care if the next owner has a warranty or not, but it is a difference.  Lastly, Llumar AIR has been on the market for much longer.  I would not worry about the film as much as choosing the shop that is going to do a better job.  So go with the shop that has the better reputation and the one you feel more comfortable with.

I'm pretty sure the last time I spend a few thousand on a supercharger for a Mustang, that it wasn't for any type of return on my investment.  Except for the better trap times.   
 
Nobody puts upgrades on their car for ROI.  Just my unnecessary two cents.  

The comment is racist not too mention misspelled...not triggered, just good to know your posts are racist garbage.

The glass will be stamped with Subaru or the glass manufacturer that makes the glass for them. Just look in the corners of your glass for the stamp and make sure the new glass has the same stamp.

And like usual here's Tom to poo poo all over ppf.  Go Tom go

Looks great! I do want to add that the color your seeing has a lot to do with the natural color of your stock glass...basically the combo of the two together. If you see the film by itself, it may look completely different. 3M CIR has a very neutral appearance to me. 3M Crystalline 40/20 has no blue, they are both brownish. 3M Color Stable has the most blue out of any of them. I've had 2 complaints from customers about the 3M CS being too blue...both were BMW owners. F1 Pinnacle has a greenish hue to it. I haven't uploaded the last couple of months of photos from the camera but we just did a M2. I will have to get the photos and see what film was installed.
 
To give people another example, the below is a video done by one of our customers. It is 3M CIR 35 (50 on the windshield) on his Mercedes-AMG E63...it shows before tint, after tint in bright sunlight, and after tint in regular sunlight.
 
 

Yep, especially 3M Crystalline. I have seen it look brownish, blueish, and silverish depending on the vehicle. It is a guessing game when selling it since we like to let the customer know what the outcome will look like before we start. Out of the Llumar/3M lines we carry, I like the 3M Color Stable coloring the best but the 3M CIR is my favorite overall film right now. It took them forever to launch the product and definitely late to the market with it but I think it is one of the best Ceramic options out there right now.

Yea, maybe i'll take back my comment "if I had to do it again, i'd go with the F1 Pinnacle" as I didn't think about the glass window color being different on other cars. I just remember F1 Pinnacle on my 17' Miata being more neutral when looking from the outside in (i do remember looking from the inside out, it having a dark green hue to it on a sunny day). Like I said, the "blueish" hue isn't all that noticeable most days with the 3M CIR. (unlike the Suntek CIR, I could not stand the color either inside or out on my Miata, so I had swapped it to F1).
 
Overall I'm happy with 3M CIR and glad they finally put a Ceramic film to compete with other brands :)

Looks great! I do want to add that the color your seeing has a lot to do with the natural color of your stock glass...basically the combo of the two together. If you see the film by itself, it may look completely different. 3M CIR has a very neutral appearance to me. 3M Crystalline 40/20 has no blue, they are both brownish. 3M Color Stable has the most blue out of any of them. I've had 2 complaints from customers about the 3M CS being too blue...both were BMW owners. F1 Pinnacle has a greenish hue to it. I haven't uploaded the last couple of months of photos from the camera but we just did a M2. I will have to get the photos and see what film was installed.
 
To give people another example, the below is a video done by one of our customers. It is 3M CIR 35 (50 on the windshield) on his Mercedes-AMG E63...it shows before tint, after tint in bright sunlight, and after tint in regular sunlight.
 
 

Figured i'd post here since there isn't much info on a customer review of the new 3M Ceramic IR. My BMW M2 has 3M Crystalline 70 on the Front windshield and 3M Ceramic IR 25 around the rest of the windows. (Windshield meters out to 60.4% rest of windows meters out to 22.9% on my BMW M2). Hottest sunny day has been 88F degrees and can say the heat rejection is pretty darn good (I had Formula 1 Pinnacle 15 on my Miata and even Suntek CIR 20 on another Miata).
 
I've seen a YouTube video where it is said that the film is supposed to match the factory "Smoke" color to it, but I am not finding this to be the case (at least not on a BMW). From the outside the 3M Ceramic IR 25 does have a hint of blue to it [you'd really need to look at an angle] but it's not really that bad [perhaps the Ceramic IR 20 version shows less?). Anyway, it's nowhere near as bad as the Suntek CIR nor 3M Crystalline in a 20% (both those films i've seen have a strong blueish reflective color to it and swore i'd never get them (20% crystalline) again) .  From the inside, on a sunny day you can tell it has a blueish hue to it and does have some of that ceramic "haze" when the sun is beaming right on it. But again, it doesn't bother me since I know that is due to the properties of the ceramic tint and loving the heat rejection. In my area at least, the 3M Crystalline combo with Ceramic IR was a better price ($200 cheaper) than F1 Stratos (for front windshield) combo'd with F1 Pinnacle.
 
I do not regret the decision i've made (in fact the Blueish hue goes perfectly with a Blue car), but if I had to do it again, i'd go with the F1 Pinnacle on the sides and 3M Crystalline on the front. Personally, from the outside, I think the F1 Pinnacle has the best Ceramic tint color to it ("charcoal").
 
**To date, the 3M Color Stable is still my favorite colored film, pure black and looks nearly factory; but since i've gone Ceramic, i don't think I can go back to 3M CS.
 





 
 

Nah, you want to hear some WTF?! The Georgia governor ordered shelter-in-place for the state but on the EXACT same day he allowed the beaches to reopen to the public for "exercise". Like people can't run anywhere else but on a beach. Yeah, he is a fool.

I heard about that @DynamicATL  He does seem to be acting in a foolish way...  From someone who thought the govts were over reacting 2 months ago... I've changed my views and I think the whole country should be under stay at home orders except for going to get meds and food.  Gotta limit this until they come up with a vaccine. 

PA tint laws are tricky since they do not specify what a legal shade is, only that the windows have to be clear enough to see inside from the windshield and side windows. So it is completely up to the officer if they want to ticket you. Anything below 50% could be considered too dark to see inside depending on the amount of sunlight that day. However, looking at window tint shops in PA, they tend to agree anything below 70% is illegal. So this is probably the level of percentage they are confident that you will not receive a ticket. So it is completely up to you, just know if you do something like a 20%, be okay with paying a fine possibly more than one. Just to give you an idea, there is NO state that allows 20% on the 2 front doors and most do not allow it on the rear windows with the exception of SUV/Trucks. Now as far as inspection goes, I did not see any mention illegal will make you fail inspection. I would contact an inspection station to clarify this.
 
According to Title 75 of the Pennsylvania Vehicle Code Section 4524(e)(1) related to Sunscreening and other materials prohibited it states that No person shall drive any motor vehicle with any sun screening device or other material which does not permit a person to see or view the inside of the vehicle through the windshield, side wing or side window of the vehicle. Subsection(2) this subsection does not apply to: (1) A vehicle which is equipped with tinted windows of the type and specification that were installed by the manufacturer of the vehicle or to any hearse,ambulance,government vehicle or any other vehicle for which a current valid certificate of exemption has been issued in accordance with regulations adopted by the department.
 
PA TINT LAW
PA DOT FACT SHEET
POLICE FORUM

Check out Express films if you want something low priced but good.  If you want junk film to practice check out ATC films.

The sunroof goes way past the headliner both front and back the front about an inch past the headliner. The back window is like the S rear window except it has a third brake light.