Tint Eastwood

My morning was AWESOME!!    
 
 

Tom explained it in a simple fashion. However, it is more complex than what is seen through simple experimentation. In other words, as long as the car is in motion you will benefit from a film's heat control aspect. When tested, all mannies utilize the same means of extracting the TSER of their film product. The published performance of film products are calculated using a wind speed across the glass of 7mph. Obviously, the faster the vehicle moves, the high the TSER because more absorbed energy is carried away and less will radiate inward to the cabin.
 
As stated before, 'ceramic' technology in window film relies mostly on absorption, which requires the glass be cooled by wind across its surface. This absorption will allow you to feel what might be radiating off film and glass while driving the car with the AC running.
 
The one film out there that 'reflects' near infrared (NIR) energy is 3M's Crystalline. Near infrared is the part of the sun's energy that we 'feel' in the immediate when sitting on the protected side of a glass/film barrier. This is because it (NIR) penetrates deeper into the skin, warming moisture surrounding nerve endings and leading the brain to say, warm/hot. Crystalline reflects a very large percentage of NIR (88-97%) in the most intense region of NIR (780- roughly 1200 nanometers). The entire NIR region of the solar spectrum encompasses 780-2500 nanometers.
 
NIR accounts for approximately 48+% of the sun's energy and visible light (VL) accounts for 49+%, leaving the remaining to ultraviolet (UV). Visible light and UV will create heat once it strikes a surface (such as skin) and is 'felt' at a much slower rate compared with NIR.
 
So, it's down to absorption versus reflection and it should be seen a slightly higher TSER values.
 

Find a job as a shop helper, work your way up to installer, in the meantime take business classes and in a few years you may be able to start putting together a business plan. 
 
Really think thats the the best advice I could give to someone wanting to get into this business.  

Find a job as a shop helper, work your way up to installer, in the meantime take business classes and in a few years you may be able to start putting together a business plan. 
 
Really think thats the the best advice I could give to someone wanting to get into this business.  

It never hurts to try new tools so you can go right back to what you were using before 😂

Hey man, why all the hate?  
 
The FG films aren’t too bad, some of them at least.  

$3500 for the opportunity to buy shit film no thanks. 

Thanks Roach kinda of what I was thinking so if felt good to have that validated. Here’s a pic of what we used. Interesting project, used Hanita Tek skylight film. Got to go back in a few days and do the edge seal. Thanks again for the reply. 

....and 14 is the average. That means some days he does more.  
 
A man of your caliber should definitely be on your own. That dealership is holding you back.  

....and 14 is the average. That means some days he does more.  
 
A man of your caliber should definitely be on your own. That dealership is holding you back.  

....and 14 is the average. That means some days he does more.  
 
A man of your caliber should definitely be on your own. That dealership is holding you back.  

You could get something like this... You just have to be neat about it. I've done it before... doesn't need to be anything fancy since you're basically just doing it for aesthetics. 
 
 
 
 

@Tint Eastwood and anyone else who wants to try a SUPER EASY - great tasting bbq pork loin.  This recipe rocks!!   
 
 

That’s a toughy, could have been from trimming the wild edges before shrinking and the final cut.  
 
Also, may want to try that wash again. Them winders is still dirty.  

I wouldn’t let them redo it either.

Did many things in the construction world before tinting....unfortunately roofing was one of them  

Hello all TintDude members,
 

 
I did some testing and the results were surprising and disappointing.  According to my UV meter, the window tint was blocking 70% of the UV light, while a pair of $12 UV blocking reading glasses was able to block 99%.  That's not what I want to see!

I was very curious, since there could be a hundred variables that could taint my result, I ended up running the following tests:
I used different UV metering equipment - (Solarmeter model 4.2 UVA meter, Sper Scientific UVA/B meter, homemade Arduino UV meter with an VEML6075 sensor) For light source I tested with my UV flashlight, as well as direct sunlight I tested performance of the tint alone, as well as the same tint installed on my car's window, in-case the glass itself blocks off some UVB radiation. Besides my UV reading glasses, I also tested my car's front windshield, as well as a pair of transition prescription glasses, and they all blocked 99% of UV radiation. I ordered additional window tint, from cheap tint sold on Amazon, to film from Filmvantage, SnapTint, and Suntek (with 3M on its way)  
With all those variations, I was able to verify my results.  My window tint did not block 99% of UV radiation.  Nor did any of the other tint samples I obtained so far.
Lastly, I played with a very simple test - shine my UV flashlight onto my fiancé's pair of transition lens to see if the lens darken.

I left the UV light on for 30 seconds, and the performance between the window tint and the UV glasses is pretty apparent.  Note that this is not definitive, as there is a chance that the transition lens reacts to wavelength above 400nm, but it help align with my UV meter's findings.
So now I'm very confused.  Is there a specific way that "UV blocking" is measured by a standard committee which I'm unaware of?
 
I noticed that the most common equipment used in demo videos on YouTube are from EDTM, with a meter that display a percentage value.  I'm curious as to how that value is calculated.
Their solar spectrum meter SS2450 detects UV at 350-380nm, while the UV Sentry UV1265 has a sensor that peaks at 380nm.  Both seems to be very focused on UVA1 and doesn't seem to cover UVA2 and UVB.  I wonder if that makes a difference with what I'm using.  The closest I have is the VEML6075 which peaks at 365nm.
 
I have more window tint sample on order, and will be doing more testing in the coming weeks, and I will be sharing my results on my blog here. (https://lanzerdiy.wordpress.com/2019/05/14/uv-test-on-window-tint/)
So far, these are the results from my testing:
UV sensor none UV glasses Alpine 50% VLT Tint Alpine 70% VLT Tint Snaptint UV BLock 80 Suntek 50 Snaptint HP 50 ATMOMO 81 345-385nm 1267 17 285 373 240 505 213 860 295-335nm 133 2 36 37 17 57 27 88   0.00% 98.66% 77.51% 70.56% 81.06% 60.14% 83.19% 32.12%   0.00% 98.50% 72.93% 72.18% 87.22% 57.14% 79.70% 33.83% Upon further research, I found a 2008 report from WAAC(Western Association for Art Conservation) who tested a bunch of window tint and compared their UV rejection rate to the manufacturer's rate.  They also found that some brands do not match their advertised rate.  There's also an update with better details about proper testing methodologies. 
If there are any members in the Bay Area, CA who has Suntek, 3M, Llumar, or other quality tint installed, I'd like to drop by and test your window tint.
 

Good ole tint123.....

I mostly use the center-pull towels I get from a commercial wholesale supplier. They fit nicely in a bucket so it’s easy to hook on the top of a ladder and no more soggy rolls.   

Woof

I mostly use the center-pull towels I get from a commercial wholesale supplier. They fit nicely in a bucket so it’s easy to hook on the top of a ladder and no more soggy rolls.   

I mostly use the center-pull towels I get from a commercial wholesale supplier. They fit nicely in a bucket so it’s easy to hook on the top of a ladder and no more soggy rolls.