JoshVette

I have a 60 inch plotter but have never used it past 30 inches.  However I bulk everything including bumpers so I'm not a good person to answer that question.  I just know most installers use pre cut kits for bumpers.  
 
Some cars like the Porsche 911 have a very large rear fender which connects to the A Pillars and lower Rockers so that will need to be done on a 60, possibly a 48 but better to have extra.  
 
I believe Suntek TruCut is $100 per month, no fee per cut, cut as many patterns as you like.  
Not sure if it works on a Mac either, I have a laptop for it. 
 
You should get in touch with someone at Suntek as I'm sure they could better answer your questions.  
 
Josh

tell him to try to peel it off and that should settle it.  
 
Josh

Too many variables to give an accurate answer. What coating, how well the car was prepped fist, where all the curing conditions for the coating met etc. In the long run though I will offer no warranty if covering a coating. And to be honest you would be wasting your coating to do so. A bit like painting the walls before plastering.
Steve
 

Your'e going to try this yourself and of all cars it's an M3!!!    Your'e so screwed.  
 
I'm pretty experienced at installing bulk and you know what the one car is I dread doing the most.......   ding ding ding,  you guessed it the M3, M2, M5, M anything.....  The bumper is insane.  Even the headlights are difficult and most headlights are the simple part of the install.  
 
Wrapping wheel well edges is not a big deal, I do it all the time, you just need to clean them extremely well.  Also if you don't get the positioning and stretch just right with those patterns you'll have no extra film to tuck into the wheel wells.
 
My advise is to not buy anything but the headlights and start with those so you don't waste a ton of money.  Once you realize how difficult the headlights are pay a professional to do the rest.  You're biting off way more then you can chew on this one.  If it was a Porsche or Tesla hood and fenders I'd say you might be able to do it with minimal issues but not a M3.  
 
Josh

Your'e going to try this yourself and of all cars it's an M3!!!    Your'e so screwed.  
 
I'm pretty experienced at installing bulk and you know what the one car is I dread doing the most.......   ding ding ding,  you guessed it the M3, M2, M5, M anything.....  The bumper is insane.  Even the headlights are difficult and most headlights are the simple part of the install.  
 
Wrapping wheel well edges is not a big deal, I do it all the time, you just need to clean them extremely well.  Also if you don't get the positioning and stretch just right with those patterns you'll have no extra film to tuck into the wheel wells.
 
My advise is to not buy anything but the headlights and start with those so you don't waste a ton of money.  Once you realize how difficult the headlights are pay a professional to do the rest.  You're biting off way more then you can chew on this one.  If it was a Porsche or Tesla hood and fenders I'd say you might be able to do it with minimal issues but not a M3.  
 
Josh

Your'e going to try this yourself and of all cars it's an M3!!!    Your'e so screwed.  
 
I'm pretty experienced at installing bulk and you know what the one car is I dread doing the most.......   ding ding ding,  you guessed it the M3, M2, M5, M anything.....  The bumper is insane.  Even the headlights are difficult and most headlights are the simple part of the install.  
 
Wrapping wheel well edges is not a big deal, I do it all the time, you just need to clean them extremely well.  Also if you don't get the positioning and stretch just right with those patterns you'll have no extra film to tuck into the wheel wells.
 
My advise is to not buy anything but the headlights and start with those so you don't waste a ton of money.  Once you realize how difficult the headlights are pay a professional to do the rest.  You're biting off way more then you can chew on this one.  If it was a Porsche or Tesla hood and fenders I'd say you might be able to do it with minimal issues but not a M3.  
 
Josh

I've had Stek DynoMatt on my car for almost 2 years now (installed March 2017, you can see original photos in one of my previous posts).  I can say that the film still looks amazing with none of the issues that DennisJR is posting.  I can post some photos of my car in a couple days as I'm getting the windshield replaced right now.  I usually have the car hand washed once a month and have the original install shop detail the car twice a year.  All the Stek cars I've seen in their shop look amazing with none of the issues other people are mentioning either.  

If I was a business owner, I'd test any and all films myself.  The problem with forums is that you don't know the conditions that were involved in any of the situations, the size of the sample set, or any agendas involved. 
 
Give every film a fair shot, install them side by side all on your own car (and family/friends/neighbors)  and see how they hold up long term, before making a purchasing decision.  Your reputation and customers deserve a thorough review.
 
I'm not discounting any of the feedback shared on the forums, but if the success of my business hinged upon something (like the long-term expectations of a primary product offering), I'd want to have full confidence gained through adequate personal experience.

Go to walmart and buy some drop cloth in the paint section, it's like a clear garbage bag material.  Use it to trace out your patter and take that template and put it over the PPF and cut it out. Should cost you all of $3 dollars.  
 
Josh

Newer BMW headlights are tough even if you've done them 100's times.  
 
If it were me, I'd skip the pre-cut kits, they are too difficult on this type of headlight.  Use a larger piece of film that's wider and much longer then the light, tack it to the inner part of the headlight near the grill, then stretch it around to the back and use the excess to stick and secure it to the fender and bumper, squeegee it all out and let it settle up for a bit then trim it all out.  This should give you full coverage with just one piece.  
 
 

I agree with Jeff, also try wearing a hat and de lint yourself with a lint roller before you start the larger panels.  
 
Flush out all the seems and panel edges very well as that's the real issue most of the time.  

Sorry but it came across as sour grapes with comments that weren't needed, nothing to do with me being sensitive. Maybe reread your first too unnecessary lines instead of blaming others for why you don't post.
 
So bottom line is guys, Suntek announced 72" rolls are on their way. Others apparently haven't them to but 3 months is too early to start marketing. Enjoy them from whoever you get them from but apparently they will have issue.
 
Enjoy your installs, I'm off to get a coffee.

Shots fired against Suntek hey, not sure why. Well they did market it at SEMA and they also did installs of it I believe, which one could assume wouldn't be done if there was quality issues.
 
No one ever said it was exclusive, just that they are first to announce its release as it is a much anticipated size for some. If Premiumshield has quality issues with their 72" rolls then that's their issue, and if you are not expecting much from it then why would you release it, don't release it at all until you are certain the quality is high. I wouldn't be comparing the sub par quality of Ventureshield to the better quality and more forgiving films of today.
 
 

Not worth the liability IMO.  yes you could do it if you follow these instructions from this video but ask yourself if it's worth the risk.  Imagine trying to open it with wet film on it...  
 
You don't want to be the one making that phone call to the owner that something went wrong and he's got to get a new hood or whatever....

Sorry I'm just now seeing your post.  
 
How did it turn out?
 
I would have told you to tack it down on the fenders yes, starting at each side by the windshield, give it a little tug to flatten it out across the top, then go to the front and do the same but you'll have to give it a lot more stretch to get the front edge to sit flat.  Use surface prep (adhesive promoter) on the entire edge of the valley and front edge.  Use lot of soapy water and tack down that valley edge, then gently push the water out down to the nose.  Squeage those valley's well cause they are a bubble haven if you don't.  If you do get some bubbles in those valley's be very careful when you pop and suck them out as you don't want to blow up that whole valley again with air.  Give it some time to settle and stick down before you pop them and make sure you'll holding down the area when  you stick the needle in.  
 
Make sure you pull the front center area down well as you will have to pull it side to side quite a bit and if it's not pulled down well enough when you trim out those letters you'll get some nasty creases.  And don't try to trim out the letters individually, do the whole word.
 
 
Josh

Nice job

Charge for material and time. Same with film. Because someone has a Mercedes as apposed to an Honda Accord, do you charge more for the Mercedes? Actually not a hard vehicle, just time consuming. You want a hard one, m6 with spoiler and ground effects

Why would you price it any differently?  Just because a car is more expensive, doesn't mean that it is any harder.

Any air under the film is unacceptable.

With 99,000 miles on it I would suggest having the entire car polished out first by a pro so that the film matches the paint.  No need to have slightly faded paint next to fresh film and there be a mismatch look.

I did polish it out after and I wore gloves.  It took me two hours just with adhesive  remover on just one side.  Oh well, getting paid for it I guess.  
 
Important thing is no paint came off and the original paint is still in great shape after 20 years which is great for resale value on this nearing $200K 993 Turbo.  Can't believe how much they are becoming worth.
 
Josh