TintNerdz213

I mostly use the center-pull towels I get from a commercial wholesale supplier. They fit nicely in a bucket so it’s easy to hook on the top of a ladder and no more soggy rolls.   

I use these. They are washable and last a long time 
 

I use Scott paper towels, i believe it's the most basic paper product out of them all.
But Bounty, Brawny, Scott i'd say are the top 3 off the shelf products. 
None of them are truly lint free, and i believe the cleaning process should assume the paper or cloth towel is leaving some small amount of debris behind for you to rinse and squeegee away just before install. 

In my experience they all do to some degree, so yes. In my opinion they're not as bad as others and I like the select a size feature and they're cheaper than Bounty.

Blue shop rags for glass/panel wipe down during tinting. Bounty for final clean with Spray Away. 

I like the blue shop towels but they’re pricey!

Brawny 

Bounty

For some reason the search function doesn’t seem to yield the same results as google for threads on this forum. If you can’t find what you’re looking for search through google with “tintdude” included in the field. 
 
 

If you are working for a dealer in their building and have no skin in the game..as far as expenses go. All you are is a laborer. Same as a car detailer. Your pay will likely be in line with what people in your area make to roll paint onto walls, mow grass, vacuume carpets or wash cars. 

Please visit Instagram @maopodstation for pricing and pictures... You can email me your order at norngllc@gmail.com

Carpet protection film, also good for back decks, you can probably find cheaper than this one-
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WD4NLR/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_wbAwCb2G2TJFK 

Ive used slip, dish soap in bottle and sprayway.  IMO sprayway is best for many reasons. No filling bottles, floats contamination and squeegee cleans better, and the film tacks better, since there is alcohol in it. It also breaks down some adhesives for removal like an adhesive remover does. 

@TintNerdz213 I feel scrubbing back glass with the straight 409 helps clean better to make the film stick a little better, then the Dawn 4x and scrub again, then i make sure it's all dry after cleaning. i use one of those 3M tub and tile handled scrubbers for leverage when scrubbing, i just slap a white scrubby over the existing blue scrubber so i can re-use the handle, certain back glass i use 3M 000 synthetic steel wool instead of white scrubby. i always use the 000 synthetic steel wool and 409 to scrub the dot matrix. I use the Joy Non Ultra and Dawn Simple clean for slip because they're the gentlest dish liquid meaning less chance of adhesive abuse and that Dawn Simple Clean is amazing slip, i wouldn't use Dawn 4x for slip because of it's higher acidic cleaner content, but most pro glass cleaners use it for window cleaning, it works well for side glass, i don't use 409 on side glass.I'm not sure what exactly that i do is good or bad, i know it works for me.

Would only be a hack if he or she refuses to learn and take tips from the pros. Then you would have another hack.  

definitiley the tinter unfortunately , 3 things could of happened 1] he had the right blade [ss] but was dull which would be a mistake , 2] he had the right blade and was sharp the way its supposed to be BUT, your glass is soft [which if thats the case it is technically his fault BUT, in A away not his fault because there is no way to know of the glass was soft prior to cutting on it, OR the worst of all he used a carbon steel which cuts the glass no matter what at which point he is 100 percent to blame, I guess the real question is it worth the hassle about a line that you didnt even know was there and  will forget about next week and likely never see it again unless your purposely staring at it , I know its not the best response but its true, almost every car in the world is full of minor dents and scratches including all over the windows BUT you dont notice them unless your really trying to. .  same case in this matter, 
 

I use Joy Non-Ultra or Dawn Simple Clean for my slip, and Dawn 4x to clean windows, i also use Formula 409 on back glass then Dawn 4x. I also use different knives for different cuts. I'm sure someone can do an install with one of everything but i tend to overthink the chit out of everything. 

You can call me whatever you want when you're handing me 100 dollar bills
 

I think it’s quite simple. If our cheapest 1 ply Tint lasts as long as everyone here has spoken, just imagine how long our good stuff lasts, just saying!

I put 20% Classic Series Black, which is their cheapest 5 year warranty film, on my truck front windows to test it out i think 3 years ago and it hasn't faded or changed color at all. I looked at the edge of the glass at the top where it gets hidden by the gasket when the window is closed and there's no color change or fade, i love it's black color and great clarity. Another tint dude told me he had it on his car for 4 years and no fade or color issues. We're all told to stay away from 1 ply or cheaper films, but this stuff is better than some of the 2 ply out there, it lays down great on dot matrix and defrosters because it's thinner, and the clarity is amazing. I really have no complaints about the product at all, i rarely use it because i suck at shrinking/installing 1 ply and sell mostly SolarFX's CarbonFX. I should note that your results may vary if your down South, i'm in the chilly Northeast.

Last time I thought about quiting was in the first year of tinting, as much as I wanted to I couldn't. My girlfriend was pregnant and I had recently been fired by my uncle at his restaurant for being really late. The guy that took me under his wing to teach me had a business but decided to bail due to personal reasons and asked if I wanted to keep the business or he was going to ask for his deposit on the store. With a pregnant girlfriend and nowhere to go I said "fuck it". He taught me for about half a year, I was only pasting side windows and barely started to cut on cars and I had only done a back glass twice (G35 and Jetta). I would take like 4 hours on a car and I would fuck up many times but I always looked at ways to get better, I would always try new ways to improve my quality work (main reason how I found this forum, thank you everyone) I set a goal to what I wanted to be as a window tinter and I haven't looked back. 5 years later I can say IF I want I can do a regular car or crossover in about 45 minutes, the regular for me is 1 hour and 30 minutes. I can do about any car now and not worry about how I'm going to do it or any doubts, except really old purple removals. Just hang in there and always try to do a excellent job because your work speaks a lot about you. I'm happy to say that I still have many returning costumers from my first year of window tint. 

Last time I thought about quiting was in the first year of tinting, as much as I wanted to I couldn't. My girlfriend was pregnant and I had recently been fired by my uncle at his restaurant for being really late. The guy that took me under his wing to teach me had a business but decided to bail due to personal reasons and asked if I wanted to keep the business or he was going to ask for his deposit on the store. With a pregnant girlfriend and nowhere to go I said "fuck it". He taught me for about half a year, I was only pasting side windows and barely started to cut on cars and I had only done a back glass twice (G35 and Jetta). I would take like 4 hours on a car and I would fuck up many times but I always looked at ways to get better, I would always try new ways to improve my quality work (main reason how I found this forum, thank you everyone) I set a goal to what I wanted to be as a window tinter and I haven't looked back. 5 years later I can say IF I want I can do a regular car or crossover in about 45 minutes, the regular for me is 1 hour and 30 minutes. I can do about any car now and not worry about how I'm going to do it or any doubts, except really old purple removals. Just hang in there and always try to do a excellent job because your work speaks a lot about you. I'm happy to say that I still have many returning costumers from my first year of window tint. 

Last time I thought about quiting was in the first year of tinting, as much as I wanted to I couldn't. My girlfriend was pregnant and I had recently been fired by my uncle at his restaurant for being really late. The guy that took me under his wing to teach me had a business but decided to bail due to personal reasons and asked if I wanted to keep the business or he was going to ask for his deposit on the store. With a pregnant girlfriend and nowhere to go I said "fuck it". He taught me for about half a year, I was only pasting side windows and barely started to cut on cars and I had only done a back glass twice (G35 and Jetta). I would take like 4 hours on a car and I would fuck up many times but I always looked at ways to get better, I would always try new ways to improve my quality work (main reason how I found this forum, thank you everyone) I set a goal to what I wanted to be as a window tinter and I haven't looked back. 5 years later I can say IF I want I can do a regular car or crossover in about 45 minutes, the regular for me is 1 hour and 30 minutes. I can do about any car now and not worry about how I'm going to do it or any doubts, except really old purple removals. Just hang in there and always try to do a excellent job because your work speaks a lot about you. I'm happy to say that I still have many returning costumers from my first year of window tint. 

When I'm pricing my jobs, I start with a sq/ft price depending on the film they are looking for. Then I add extra if it's high ladder work, if the edges of the windows are horrible and will require extra time to clean, how far the job is away from me, etc.
 
If the job is small - then I have a min. amount I charge to go out. If the job happens to be super close, and super small, and for people I feel like doing a solid for, I'll lower it. I did one window in an over 55 development for some woman for 1/2 my normal min... still made it worth going out, but she was really close to me and she was happy it didn't end up costing too much for her.
 
But by and large, sq/ft + extra for extras.
 
The issue I see the most with people who don't do much in flat glass is the film. If the job is smaller, you're gonna have to order much more film then you will need. But it wouldn't be fair to put that all on the customer - it's not their fault you don't use it often. So you might have money sitting in your shop until it's used.
 
 
Just a couple thoughts.
 
 

Hi Ryker,
 
Not sure if the Klingon range is available for Earth currently?
 
Communication with the supplier can be tricky, especially when you don't have a gravitational energy photon receiver. The last time I ordered from the distributor the delivery crew was vaporized by an exploding dwarf star whilst in hyperspace. Their no refunds policy left me 3 standard di-luminum crystals out of pocket, and with no Klingon... 
 
Logistics can be an issue. The nearest stockist is 2-3 light years away. If you want it delivered Express via a tear in space time... That's going to cost you.
 
Also, I picked up a interstellar communication from a tint shop in Gamma Zone section 12-B. Apparently Klingon are setting up exclusive territories. And our solar system has been allocated to Regon 6J. And we know those guys are just going to keep all of the Klingon for themselves... Or double the price. 
 
There are other good local Milky Way based options, but nothing beats Klingon... The stuff shrinks like butter!
 
Cheers