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Here are the photos showing what I am talking about. It happens on both rear windows and rollups. We have had couple of different cars with the same problem. They were about 4 months apart in installation date, so wouldn't be the same roll. Maybe the same production run though. It was the Omniflex Color Stable film. The first photo showing that it also faded, originally a 35% measuring around 32% on the car.

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Just a random thought. Do you shrink with a torch?

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I'm seeing geeked up back glasses on good mannys films on relatively new cars alot lately. I know about the " back glass gets more sun" debate.

However I've been concerned of our heat guns and torches being way too hot for the adhesive systems.

I'm wondering if Smartie2shoes or others can share some wisdom on testing regarding g heat numbers for adhesive systems.

It makes some logical sense that our techniques haven't been analyzed enough.

Reason being is some back glasses just take more heat to shrink.

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I'm seeing geeked up back glasses on good mannys films on relatively new cars alot lately. I know about the " back glass gets more sun" debate.

However I've been concerned of our heat guns and torches being way too hot for the adhesive systems.

I'm wondering if Smartie2shoes or others can share some wisdom on testing regarding g heat numbers for adhesive systems.

It makes some logical sense that our techniques haven't been analyzed enough.

Reason being is some back glasses just take more heat to shrink.

I found this answer on LLumartech.com's FAQ # 232 from Dec 2009:

 

Question (12/2/2009): I have heard that some installers use an open-flame gas torch of some sort (butane or propane) instead of a heat gun to heat form the film for rear windows. This sounds crazy and dangerous to me. What is Performance Films' technical position about such a method of heat shrinking? 

Answer: Performance Films' Research and Technology group has informed us in no uncertain terms: "Exposing organic coatings [in window films] to a gas flame is definitely not recommended. There are a host of unstable and energetic species in gas flames that are perfect for initiating photo- and thermo-oxidative degradation reactions. It will shorten product life-times and reduce confidence in weathering predictions and warranties.

 

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I started in 85. Back then we had the Camaro, Baretta, Saturn SL, Cutlass, 944, and numerous other "challenging" shit boxes. Many if not all of them were done with defroster seams. Film was more stretched than shrunk. And there was always film failures a few years later just like today. Nothing has changed.

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I started in 85. Back then we had the Camaro, Baretta, Saturn SL, Cutlass, 944, and numerous other "challenging" shit boxes. Many if not all of them were done with defroster seams. Film was more stretched than shrunk. And there was always film failures a few years later just like today. Nothing has changed.

Tom nailed it :twocents film has got way better since the 80s to work with....but....... I saw stuff like this way before heat forming.

Cheers

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I'm seeing geeked up back glasses on good mannys films on relatively new cars alot lately. I know about the " back glass gets more sun" debate.

However I've been concerned of our heat guns and torches being way too hot for the adhesive systems.

I'm wondering if Smartie2shoes or others can share some wisdom on testing regarding g heat numbers for adhesive systems.

It makes some logical sense that our techniques haven't been analyzed enough.

Reason being is some back glasses just take more heat to shrink.

I found this answer on LLumartech.com's FAQ # 232 from Dec 2009:

 

Question (12/2/2009): I have heard that some installers use an open-flame gas torch of some sort (butane or propane) instead of a heat gun to heat form the film for rear windows. This sounds crazy and dangerous to me. What is Performance Films' technical position about such a method of heat shrinking? Answer: Performance Films' Research and Technology group has informed us in no uncertain terms: "Exposing organic coatings [in window films] to a gas flame is definitely not recommended. There are a host of unstable and energetic species in gas flames that are perfect for initiating photo- and thermo-oxidative degradation reactions. It will shorten product life-times and reduce confidence in weathering predictions and warranties.[/size]

Smartie, Engrish please :beer

I don't shrink with a torch unless I'm wanting to impress someone in class but still it seems the film isn't getting as hot when done right with a torch and nothing catches on fire! I truly feel you are one of the smartest members on the board. If you can break down the last sentence it would help me understand. I believe what your saying I just don't understand. Thank you for all the information you share with us. You make the forum a better place!

Cheers

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