TNTLady

I didn’t do this one today as I do not work weekends but I did do this one this week and wanted to share. A 1984 Olds Delta 88. Piece of cake!  ATC 15%


 

I didn’t do this one today as I do not work weekends but I did do this one this week and wanted to share. A 1984 Olds Delta 88. Piece of cake!  ATC 15%


 

I paid a mobile detailer to go to my customer workplace and take care of it. I didn’t want to inconvenience them. 

I would tend to believe drying out would be the answer on a brand new vehicle however, as the vehicles ages the moisture may get contaminated from road dust entry.
 
One solution would be minimize moisture use (e.g. a wipe clean and wetting film only) and use an absorbing towel over a hard card or squeegee to evacuate the solution. Ditto with final finish hardcarding.

I charge more for those little quarter windows 20 to 40 bucks more. Some are easy and and some are boogers!

Is it creepy that I basically have little foreign car voodoo dolls that I torture? 

1985 Bronco strip and re-tint with Global QDP 30/15.  Fun.

14 days training and 20k...You will tint like a pro when I am done with you!!!! Before you say that too expensive....No one in this country that can train you to tint in 2-4 days...it is all basic stuff and hopefully you got the common sense to learn the rest...your failure rate is 90% and you will make very expensive mistakes and you will make these mistakes for years...Not with me...also you will make money after I train you !!!!! And not stuck doing friends and family car for free until you learn....

He does hands on as well as the video series. Most of your major manufacturers are going to have training available as well but I don't think that they're going to be available to your average joe off the street, going to need to be affiliated with a shop that carries their film.

I agree with everyone else . This is the way dodge makes defroster lines ! Nothing wrong with the film or installation job ! If anything dodge needs to change the way they make the glass ! Some old Lexus have the Same problem .
 

I quit using the scrubbies to clean the windows and only razor the sides. I use micro fiber towels that I wash weekly on three hour cycle and are color coded for their uses. Orange for dirty work and green is clean, final pass before tinting and I use a fresh set or two on eash car. The orange ones I clean the gaskets with and the top edge of the glass. I do my final clean pass with my unger pro squeegee and whipe with the green one before install. 
You may need to also disassemble your unger squeegee and clean it good. Make sure it has a good blade in it and always keep extra inserts on hand for it to change out. Peal your backing off on a peeler board with your tint upside down and peel up with the liner going up. Always keep your peeler board clean. If you cut your film on the outside always clean the glass before cutting your patterns. This eliminates a lot of dirt from contaminating your peeler board, tools and film. 
Fortunately I always have clean installs due to these steps I take.

Just way do I attract these?

To me it just looks like the weather strip is dislodged from it's channel. Hard to say 100% without it in front of me but you should be able to roll the window down and get it fit back in place. You could've done it with outward pressure while rolling the window up but more likely it was like that to begin with. Honda's are particularly bad about that in my experience but speaking as someone who works for a new dealer I see fucked up stuff like that all the time on new ones. Generally it goes unnoticed by the public at large, until you work on the adjacent area and they have a reason to pay closer attention. Everyone assumes that the new car they're buying off the lot is flawless when in reality I can find at least one  flaw on every new car on the lot, it may be nitpicky in some cases but they're there. At the end of the day I'd say just take care of it, make your customer happy and move on, it's not worth taking a negative review over.

She is done boys 

That's a beautiful shop!! Post some interior and shop pics too please. 

I quit using the scrubbies to clean the windows and only razor the sides. I use micro fiber towels that I wash weekly on three hour cycle and are color coded for their uses. Orange for dirty work and green is clean, final pass before tinting and I use a fresh set or two on eash car. The orange ones I clean the gaskets with and the top edge of the glass. I do my final clean pass with my unger pro squeegee and whipe with the green one before install. 
You may need to also disassemble your unger squeegee and clean it good. Make sure it has a good blade in it and always keep extra inserts on hand for it to change out. Peal your backing off on a peeler board with your tint upside down and peel up with the liner going up. Always keep your peeler board clean. If you cut your film on the outside always clean the glass before cutting your patterns. This eliminates a lot of dirt from contaminating your peeler board, tools and film. 
Fortunately I always have clean installs due to these steps I take.

Excited to announce that our new shop will be completed this month. We hope to get moved in and using it next month. Been a long time in the making and we are more than ready!

I quit using the scrubbies to clean the windows and only razor the sides. I use micro fiber towels that I wash weekly on three hour cycle and are color coded for their uses. Orange for dirty work and green is clean, final pass before tinting and I use a fresh set or two on eash car. The orange ones I clean the gaskets with and the top edge of the glass. I do my final clean pass with my unger pro squeegee and whipe with the green one before install. 
You may need to also disassemble your unger squeegee and clean it good. Make sure it has a good blade in it and always keep extra inserts on hand for it to change out. Peal your backing off on a peeler board with your tint upside down and peel up with the liner going up. Always keep your peeler board clean. If you cut your film on the outside always clean the glass before cutting your patterns. This eliminates a lot of dirt from contaminating your peeler board, tools and film. 
Fortunately I always have clean installs due to these steps I take.

I quit using the scrubbies to clean the windows and only razor the sides. I use micro fiber towels that I wash weekly on three hour cycle and are color coded for their uses. Orange for dirty work and green is clean, final pass before tinting and I use a fresh set or two on eash car. The orange ones I clean the gaskets with and the top edge of the glass. I do my final clean pass with my unger pro squeegee and whipe with the green one before install. 
You may need to also disassemble your unger squeegee and clean it good. Make sure it has a good blade in it and always keep extra inserts on hand for it to change out. Peal your backing off on a peeler board with your tint upside down and peel up with the liner going up. Always keep your peeler board clean. If you cut your film on the outside always clean the glass before cutting your patterns. This eliminates a lot of dirt from contaminating your peeler board, tools and film. 
Fortunately I always have clean installs due to these steps I take.

Contamination can be many factors. Easy for some and harder for others. The biggest are your prep and environment. I was tinting in my garage for many years and didn’t realize how good I had it. I use to have the garage open when tinting even with a slight breeze would get excellent results. Now that I’m in my new shop I have to have the roll up doors closed when tinting. I’ve also figured out that it has to be closed for a few minutes before peeling. I use to peel the backglass off of the car but can’t do that anymore and use my peeler. The small holes in the shop also contributes. I’ve patched up small holes with duct tape and has helped. There’s small holes at the top of the shop A frames where dust is coming in from my neighbors but I need a big ass ladder to get to. Hard water can be issues. To get excellent results you have to control the environment. Every day I use a leaf blower and dust mop multiple times a day. 
As for using razor blades I’m moving away from that as the new glass are chit and can scratch easy. Use a scrubbie! If you can’t control the environment then maybe it’s time to move. 

The more you do of them the easier it will get....in theory. LOL!

Just finished a new hatchback civic. Shoot me

First time using blister free. Week later added global hp 30.

Did this monster van with CTX 5, 15 and lastly AIR 80 on the windshield. Super easy!

Did this monster van with CTX 5, 15 and lastly AIR 80 on the windshield. Super easy!