pbalentine

I believe on the Ram 20+  theystopped
covering the computer module on the drivers side under the dash to the far left. You’ll want to cover that. Also, put two soak ropes and dont use the mini rope. Its too small and fits loose. 

Probably too much slip and it shifted. 

Maybe he was hungry? I swear can’t tint good at all if Im hungry. 

Maybe he was hungry? I swear can’t tint good at all if Im hungry. 

Don’t lay too much of the film on the glass before sliding into position. 

I've been using a 6' plastic folding table standing up vertically with one set of legs out to support it and a second 4' table to set my gear on. No glass to break, light weight and I don't worry about some genius hurting themselves on it. Cutting on it can be tricky but does the job and easy to move around the cars.

The car is my peel board.  I use a liner to cover the panel unless the vehicle is really clean....
 
California reverse roll the back window. 

Also lightly mist the headliner, when possible, and where a cap to contain head hair.

They should of covered the deck with paper towels or tape. Also, need to clean bottom edge and then flush after cleaning= no hairs or dots. Dont be lazy and tape that damn headliner too!

thats like early 2000's pricing. 

Looks like bad placement. I squeegee big 1/4s like these but flush all small ones. Never get any contamination dots, especially in the top corner!

Looks like bad placement. I squeegee big 1/4s like these but flush all small ones. Never get any contamination dots, especially in the top corner!

Wow, jobs like that really give tinting a bad name. Not sure what caused the scratch, but I think you are right about it being them.
 
Yeah, they should have cleaned up the seats and shelf after.
 
The last picture is adhesive that was left behind from the first job they removed.
 
What a hack job. I wouldn't let them work on it again.  

Get a head start and read Dave Ramey's Entre leadership before you put down any more money....
 
 
https://www.ramseysolutions.com/store/books/entreleadership-by-dave-ramsey

If heat reduction is the goal I would absolutely use ceramic.
 
Also that install is going to wear you out getting it right if you're not used to handling film on the regular. I would find an installer and offer a days fishing charter for two with bait, poles and beer in trade for a ceramic install. Since you were probably going fishing anyway, everybody wins.

There has to be a way around scrubbing adhesive for ever. Ive always wondered if it could be done with a 3” disc on an angle grinder or some type of DA sander?? I have several air sanders from removing paint from my car. 

FYI they had an 866 number on their site, the new number to call them is (614)264-0147
The guy told me he's going to change it on website he didn't know it wasn't updated

Those are nice. Put them in my Amazon cart to try. I’ll let you know how it goes with the discs when I have a chance, thanks. 

I have some of the scrub pad discs. The steel wool on a disc is a good idea. I also have one of the adhesive removing wheels. Thanks Tint Slayer!

You can't really go wrong with the Madico name, they've been doing film since the genesis of the industry.
 
In regards to dirt, well, it's everywhere. Here are some recommendations to minimize contamination of film before it touches the glass:
 
- Use filtered water.
- Clean spray bottles, spray tanks, and squeegees frequently.
- If using a tank spray system with hose, splice in an inline filter and change regularly.
- Tape off top and side vertical auto window gaskets, if felt. With rubber gaskets, a good clean wipe in lieu of tape. 
- In automotive, spray and squeegee clean any surface the film is to be laid on, whether the surface it is to be installed to, the outside surface of auto glass when hand cutting patterns and the peel board surface before each pattern is placed on its surface.
- Spray mist the path from peel board to auto glass and mist the pattern (liner) surface on your peel board before peeling the liner.
- Residential, lightly spray the area path to window before peeling the liner.
- Do not have fans running during installation.
- Do not wear clothing such as sweaters or other materials that easily shed fibers or collected airborne particles.
- Rinse fingers tips if they will be in contact with the film's adhesive. Use only (rinsed) thumb and forefinger when handling exposed adhesive.
- Keep fingernails clipped short.
- Enure body hair (head, face, brows, etc.) does not pose a shedding threat. I would even spray mist my arm arm hair when in short sleeves and spray mist my head before entering the back seat when installing a back glass pattern.
- Lightly mist back seat and headliner (caution should exercised with some headliners that are sensitive to water staining).
- Ask the client to wash there car before they arrive or rinse the car yourself before entering the bay.
 
Okay, I'll let others think of more.  Good luck!

It'll gum the disk, harden on the glass from the heat and it'll shoot everywhere. I thought about it too, but i wouldn't get far with the fine grit sandpaper needed to not damage glass. 
They make flap disks that are basically steel wool on a disk, rotating wire brush, scotch brite disk or a bristle disk, maybe that's a way to try. just a suggestion.
They make adhesive removal disks for glue and emblems on car paint, that's a thought but may take of defroster lines idk

If the film is anything except clear, he's correct. 

Express makes a bronze tint. 

Just slow down and think. 

Thought about the waiver some, but the access for windshields sucks now. The center consoles are getting bigger and most have stuff by the mirror. If you’re doing them now you better have 1-2 soak ropes, and have that module covered.  I did 22 Lexus RX460 yesterday and glanced at the shield and said no way.