Tintguy1980

I'll bite.
 
My back was jacked before I even started tinting; slipped L5 vertebrae with mild spina-bifida, mild scoliosis at lower thoracic, anterior thoracic, mild spina-bifida at T1, reverse cervical curve, and bone spurs at C6/C7 have grown together.
 
Tinted for 35+ years. So, ask me how my back is doing. The upside is I don't have to tint anymore, but I do my own cars and house (slowly and carefully), I can still walk, and I only run for my life. Unable to lift more than 25 pounds. I cannot climb ladders but will do it to save a life. My low back gives me grief daily, my neck is f**cked and bursitis has limited the use of my shoulders.
 
I exercise to keep necessary movement and will do so until they throw dirt on my face.

Now, tell me ... what did you say about your back?

I'll bite.
 
My back was jacked before I even started tinting; slipped L5 vertebrae with mild spina-bifida, mild scoliosis at lower thoracic, anterior thoracic, mild spina-bifida at T1, reverse cervical curve, and bone spurs at C6/C7 have grown together.
 
Tinted for 35+ years. So, ask me how my back is doing. The upside is I don't have to tint anymore, but I do my own cars and house (slowly and carefully), I can still walk, and I only run for my life. Unable to lift more than 25 pounds. I cannot climb ladders but will do it to save a life. My low back gives me grief daily, my neck is f**cked and bursitis has limited the use of my shoulders.
 
I exercise to keep necessary movement and will do so until they throw dirt on my face.

Now, tell me ... what did you say about your back?

My back HURTS! Had a damn 02 civic coupe in the shop for 20% ceramic all around and between having 0 space in the back and having such a tight decklid, I’m HURTING. I’m genuinely considering becoming an SUV/hatchback/truck only shop, I’m tired of crawling all up in the backseat and trunk for the same pay as a truck that I can do in 1/4 of the time with less effort.
 
Rant over, this shit sucks

If the part is even available....
 
Laying film when it's out of the car increases the difficulty by a factor of 5. Also increases the opportunity to damage it as well.
 
I've got a dollar that says he scratches the film before he gets it reinstalled...
 
Nobody really wants to work on old restorations. Half the time they are glued together without the right clips and the fabric/vinyl/leather is brittle with a fresh coat of dye that starts running as soon as it gets wet. Don't even get me started about the cardboard panel backers...
 
Sometimes you have to pay the cost to be the boss. This is one of those times.
 
Without sarcasm, yes the ceramic film is worth every penny.

We need to know the vehicle so we know the difficulty of glass and charge accordingly especially older vehicles. You could have a 1988 Mustang or a 1988 Porsche 944 which takes twice as long and uses more film. No reason to be paranoid, just answer the questions. That way there are no surprises for you or the shop when you show up.
 
Most shops won't tint glass outside of the vehicle since it is hard to secure the glass. We rarely get asked but when we do, it is a no thank you.
 
Ceramic just helps to block heat. Some may last a little longer than base films but I would expect a same lifespan. The longest lasting film will be metalized.

Another also...
 
Just because it is a Bentley doesn't automatically make it a more difficult tint job, and that Kia may just be a pain in the butt to tint. 

Also, you used the example of a Kia and a Bentley, that it shouldn't matter...
 
You have to consider that mistakes happen and replacing a part on a Kia is a little less expensive that replacing a part on a Bentley.

The most important point to pick up from this video is that all the slack & wrinkles are pushed from the centre towards the top and bottom by forming fingers and shrinking them, NOT the sides. Start with a H lock down with the middle laying flat accross to the sides and kep this flat. Do not push anyything to the sides. (Although is some more advanced techniques side fingers may be shrunk, but that comes with more experience.)

Appears to be laminated glass with each glass layer being thin and prone to cracking easily with the right amount of stress in just the right spot. And, may not even be heat strengthened, if they like to cut corners.
 
Edit: Don't use any metal pull back tool for the weatherstrip at the bottom; it may crack this glass, too, if pressure is forcefully applied while the tool is touching the glass edge.

RHE50 is usually an exterior mount film product, however, it can be used inside on sunroofs.

A dual reflective 50 (or DR 45 from Global) would be the middle choice and the top choice, if it were me, would be 3M Crystalline 40.
 
Edit: Oooo ... yes, VKool is another good choice.

Unfortunately the NIR specs in a single wavelength tells you nothing and are useless in determining overall performance of any film. Single wavelength use is a marketing ploy so the maker can thump their chest about theirs being bigger than yours. 92% @ 1025nm wavelength is one of 1720 wavelengths found in the NIR spectrum, with the most intense being between 780nm - 1500nm-ish. NIR is not heat, it is electromagnetic energy.
 
TSER for the product you speak of is 52%; therein lies the performance capability of that product.
 
As to the perforated shade, yes it will assist in the 'feel', however, it allows any transmitted solar energy to be absorbed by its material, converting to far infrared (heat) and radiated to the cabin. Film on the glass is far more effective in reducing heat build up on all surfaces in the cabin (from the sun's energy); making it warm inside.

Wow! Chop job for sure.
 
Why isn't the film all the way to the top of the back glass? WTF?
 
Now, what to do; have film removed, get money back & go elsewhere, have them redo using different installer, or even trust them with any of the aforementioned?

Yes, Crystalline would be your best choice. I have Crystalline 40 on my driver/passenger doors and love it. It's been there for 7 years and still performs and looks the same as the day it was installed.

As to the glass in the roof, it has laminated glass that is more prone to thermal stress. It also may have one layer of 'tinted' glass that isn't doing so much in terms solar rejection. The best way to tell is to open it partially and compare white clouds looking from the inside to determine glass 'color'.

If the glass has a factory tint to it, you can ask around tint shops to see if they carry a reflective (mirror or semi-mirror) architectural film with relatively low absorption with much better solar reflective properties.. It has to be a film using a pressure sensitive adhesive system (already stick under the protective liner.

Another option in the architectural film choices would be a dual reflective film. Dual (or DR) films have a layer of tint and a reflective layer laminated together to provide low reflective to the interior side and enhanced reflectivity to the exterior facing. They, too, have lower absorption rates with moderate to serious solar rejection. Again, a pressure sensitive adhesive is a must for automotive installations of architectural film.
 
If there is a tint is the roof glass, any reflective appearance of reflective (or mirror type) film will be diminished in the same fashion as laminating a tint layer to a reflective layer to make dual reflect film products. So in essence from outside the vehicle the reflectivity of the roof would  be less than placing mirrored film on relatively clear glass.

Ceramics, ceramic-dyed and straight-dyed films are the most absorptive films on the market.
 
Good luck in your search for the architectural film with pressure sensitive adhesive. You might see if SolarGard, Johnson, VKool, Huper Optiks, or Madico film still sells pressure sensitive adhesive version of their reflective films.

Yes, Crystalline would be your best choice. I have Crystalline 40 on my driver/passenger doors and love it. It's been there for 7 years and still performs and looks the same as the day it was installed.

As to the glass in the roof, it has laminated glass that is more prone to thermal stress. It also may have one layer of 'tinted' glass that isn't doing so much in terms solar rejection. The best way to tell is to open it partially and compare white clouds looking from the inside to determine glass 'color'.

If the glass has a factory tint to it, you can ask around tint shops to see if they carry a reflective (mirror or semi-mirror) architectural film with relatively low absorption with much better solar reflective properties.. It has to be a film using a pressure sensitive adhesive system (already stick under the protective liner.

Another option in the architectural film choices would be a dual reflective film. Dual (or DR) films have a layer of tint and a reflective layer laminated together to provide low reflective to the interior side and enhanced reflectivity to the exterior facing. They, too, have lower absorption rates with moderate to serious solar rejection. Again, a pressure sensitive adhesive is a must for automotive installations of architectural film.
 
If there is a tint is the roof glass, any reflective appearance of reflective (or mirror type) film will be diminished in the same fashion as laminating a tint layer to a reflective layer to make dual reflect film products. So in essence from outside the vehicle the reflectivity of the roof would  be less than placing mirrored film on relatively clear glass.

Ceramics, ceramic-dyed and straight-dyed films are the most absorptive films on the market.
 
Good luck in your search for the architectural film with pressure sensitive adhesive. You might see if SolarGard, Johnson, VKool, Huper Optiks, or Madico film still sells pressure sensitive adhesive version of their reflective films.

Yes, Crystalline would be your best choice. I have Crystalline 40 on my driver/passenger doors and love it. It's been there for 7 years and still performs and looks the same as the day it was installed.

As to the glass in the roof, it has laminated glass that is more prone to thermal stress. It also may have one layer of 'tinted' glass that isn't doing so much in terms solar rejection. The best way to tell is to open it partially and compare white clouds looking from the inside to determine glass 'color'.

If the glass has a factory tint to it, you can ask around tint shops to see if they carry a reflective (mirror or semi-mirror) architectural film with relatively low absorption with much better solar reflective properties.. It has to be a film using a pressure sensitive adhesive system (already stick under the protective liner.

Another option in the architectural film choices would be a dual reflective film. Dual (or DR) films have a layer of tint and a reflective layer laminated together to provide low reflective to the interior side and enhanced reflectivity to the exterior facing. They, too, have lower absorption rates with moderate to serious solar rejection. Again, a pressure sensitive adhesive is a must for automotive installations of architectural film.
 
If there is a tint is the roof glass, any reflective appearance of reflective (or mirror type) film will be diminished in the same fashion as laminating a tint layer to a reflective layer to make dual reflect film products. So in essence from outside the vehicle the reflectivity of the roof would  be less than placing mirrored film on relatively clear glass.

Ceramics, ceramic-dyed and straight-dyed films are the most absorptive films on the market.
 
Good luck in your search for the architectural film with pressure sensitive adhesive. You might see if SolarGard, Johnson, VKool, Huper Optiks, or Madico film still sells pressure sensitive adhesive version of their reflective films.

Yes, Crystalline would be your best choice. I have Crystalline 40 on my driver/passenger doors and love it. It's been there for 7 years and still performs and looks the same as the day it was installed.

As to the glass in the roof, it has laminated glass that is more prone to thermal stress. It also may have one layer of 'tinted' glass that isn't doing so much in terms solar rejection. The best way to tell is to open it partially and compare white clouds looking from the inside to determine glass 'color'.

If the glass has a factory tint to it, you can ask around tint shops to see if they carry a reflective (mirror or semi-mirror) architectural film with relatively low absorption with much better solar reflective properties.. It has to be a film using a pressure sensitive adhesive system (already stick under the protective liner.

Another option in the architectural film choices would be a dual reflective film. Dual (or DR) films have a layer of tint and a reflective layer laminated together to provide low reflective to the interior side and enhanced reflectivity to the exterior facing. They, too, have lower absorption rates with moderate to serious solar rejection. Again, a pressure sensitive adhesive is a must for automotive installations of architectural film.
 
If there is a tint is the roof glass, any reflective appearance of reflective (or mirror type) film will be diminished in the same fashion as laminating a tint layer to a reflective layer to make dual reflect film products. So in essence from outside the vehicle the reflectivity of the roof would  be less than placing mirrored film on relatively clear glass.

Ceramics, ceramic-dyed and straight-dyed films are the most absorptive films on the market.
 
Good luck in your search for the architectural film with pressure sensitive adhesive. You might see if SolarGard, Johnson, VKool, Huper Optiks, or Madico film still sells pressure sensitive adhesive version of their reflective films.

Back in my install days in Florida I had a client stop payment of their check. When the bank informed me I put together a letter to the client stating that I would have him served and see him in court. I went on to say I would likely prevail because he never came back to complain and the fact that Florida has a law dating back to, I think, 1914 that covers defrauding an innkeeper, which his actions would be treated in a similar manner. He caved and brought in the money for the job but I would not accept it until it included the fee for having him served.

Few folks try anything to get a freebie.

Another regular accused my employee of scratching the hood of his car. Funny thing was I tinted the car, not the employee and I knew I didn't scratch the car. He wanted me to give him a free job in exchange. I said, NO! He left in a huff and before his wife left she said she saw a cat clawing at the windshield mister that morning.
 
When I left the manufacturing side of my career, I was asked if I would be starting a tint biz. 😂🤣 Oh HELL NO!

I cannot recall the number of times I've taken on this position with a customer. I call it the taillight refund.
 
Like TD said, people suck; for the most part they are entitled, petulant children.

I cannot recall the number of times I've taken on this position with a customer. I call it the taillight refund.
 
Like TD said, people suck; for the most part they are entitled, petulant children.

I’ve heard this from you a very long time ago and just never felt the need as the prices went up so did most of the bad customers. I have my screening techniques down but this one slipped through the cracks. Trust me my techniques would have fished this one out except for the fact someone else booked the appointment for her. 🍻 brother. 

People just suck.

Double layering is not advised, however, it has been done extensively over the last 40 some years. The only issue I've ever experienced with double layers is when it comes time to replace it, the first layer will remove the scratch coat from the base layer. If you deal with a scratch coat that is known to easily scratch during installation, you might want to avoid double layering.
 
No matter what tint is on the glass; single layer, double or triple, the car's interior is going to heat up. Slower depending on the film's performance, but the interior will still achieve the 'hot box take your breath' away temps over sun exposed time.
 
Absorption level of film is a non-issue with tempered glass found in cars. The idea of absorption and how the performance of film plays out in the case of a car, is the faster the car moves, the more air passes over the glass, carrying away what has been absorbed. Hence, the car is cooler while in motion, but park that puppy in the sun all day and it'll still be hot when you climb in.
 
Remember; heat always seeks out cooler air until a balance is struck on both sides of any barrier.

No, no. Only in make believe. This is where you playact the role of a client wanting to have their windows tinted.
 
Have window glass dimension(s) ready and call. Explain you want an estimate on those measurements and you are looking for something in a medium darkness range. Play dumb about film and be careful not to let them in on you being a potential competitor.
 
The key is to move the conversation toward your end goal of getting an estimate without them coming to your place. Once you have a price from them you can reverse determine they're pricing per meter or per foot. 2-3 different calls would give a good range to work with in respect to setting your own pricing.

No, no. Only in make believe. This is where you playact the role of a client wanting to have their windows tinted.
 
Have window glass dimension(s) ready and call. Explain you want an estimate on those measurements and you are looking for something in a medium darkness range. Play dumb about film and be careful not to let them in on you being a potential competitor.
 
The key is to move the conversation toward your end goal of getting an estimate without them coming to your place. Once you have a price from them you can reverse determine they're pricing per meter or per foot. 2-3 different calls would give a good range to work with in respect to setting your own pricing.

No, no. Only in make believe. This is where you playact the role of a client wanting to have their windows tinted.
 
Have window glass dimension(s) ready and call. Explain you want an estimate on those measurements and you are looking for something in a medium darkness range. Play dumb about film and be careful not to let them in on you being a potential competitor.
 
The key is to move the conversation toward your end goal of getting an estimate without them coming to your place. Once you have a price from them you can reverse determine they're pricing per meter or per foot. 2-3 different calls would give a good range to work with in respect to setting your own pricing.