EWF

Hello Allstartintchatt,
This is Howard at Express Films.
It would not be proper for me to opine on how SunTek treated you or anyone else for that matter. I compete with them every day and I respect them as a viable competitor. My purpose in writing this to you is to suggest that you consider another option which you might not know is available to you: Your very own brand of film.
The next logical question is who you should work with. My company has been providing this exact service to clients for decades. You can take delivery of the film in glossy boxes that are beautifully decorated with your company logos and artwork. What's more, inside the box will be a roll of color stable window film which is made by a company which I (and many others) consider to be the top quality window film manufacturer on this planet.
All at better prices than either of your current suppliers.
Interested?? Just give me a call for all the details.
Howard - Express Window Films (800)345-6669 howard@buytint.com

Hi Saul,
 
Sincere thanks for the kind words of support.  Yes - we stand behind you.  2015 will mark 33 years in the business for us and we are in it for the long run.  And standing behind EWF is engineering team Garware Polyester, who understand these products from the molecular level. 
 
BTW:  I just wrote back to you via email regarding the sticking issue.  The board members here will know more about it then I do, but it involves the anti-fog coating present on some of the glass out there.  I remember seeing a thread on these boards about removing it.  I know that Rain-X makes a product to remove it and Smartie (as usual) had some good tips on removing it from the glass.  When that coating is present, the film will instantly stick no matter how much soap you use.
 
Regards,
 
Howard

 
Thanks so much Ric,
 
The almost daily FL thunderstorms are starting to settle down.  I am hoping to fly over to visit Ocalastinter and perhaps Rjsi if they have time for lunch in the near future.  I am headed up to Danbury this afternoon and returning on Friday.  Then we begin our preparation for SEMA !
 
-Howard

There remains to a large degree, a great deal of confusion about automotive film laws and which films are compatible with which cars, in which states and under which circumstances.
If these are issues you are already very familiar with, bear with me. Based upon the continuous flow of questions we get at EWF about this issue, I am creating this post to help make things a little clearer for all of those who are still a little confused by it.
Not a week goes by when we don’t get a call from a dealer(s) asking why their customer got a ticket when they put 35% film on a car and “the law says 35%”.
First: There are two types of laws:
Film Laws: Laws that regulate only the applied film
Net Laws: Laws that regulate the net transmission of glass+film (most common)
You are responsible for knowing what type of law your state has on the books. If you need an up-to-date listing state laws, there is a terrific website called Tintdude that has a list. I suggest you visit that site some day.
Second: There are variables
You are aiming at a moving target, so you have to adjust accordingly. Here are some of the variables you need to take into account:
VLT range of the glass 70% - 84% (generally)
VLT variance on your film +/- 3% per industry guidelines
VLT precision on your meter +/- 3% some meters are worse than this
State Law Tolerances +/- 3% (This will vary from state to state)
Some brief Do’s and Don’t’s:
Do own a meter
Do perform a “test shot” (more on that below)
Do discuss the law with your clients
Do ask your film supplier about all the available VLT’s they offer
Do know about the law enforcement situation – Is it part of annual inspection?
Do strive to become an expert on this topic – your customers are depending on you
Do keep your meter battery fresh and learn how to self calibrate it (if possible).
Do keep a variety of shades on hand so your customer has a choice.
Do NOT put a piece of film into a net (glass+film) meter and rely upon that reading
Do NOT guess. Instead, measure
Do NOT guarantee your customer a legal reading unless you are certain it’s legal
Do NOT hesitate to ask your supplier if you have questions.
How to perform a “test shot”:
To do this, all you need is a meter and a small piece of film (4 inches X 4 inches perhaps). Install the small piece of film onto the window and meter it. Do this before you proceed with the actual installation. Show the reading to the customer and discuss the applicable state law (including any allowable variances). Once you both agree that the VLT range is within your requirements and expectations proceed with the job.
Meter Math:
Get out your calculator. Here we go:
Example #1: What is the expected net range for an applied 42% film?
As discussed above, the VLT range on the glass itself is generally 70%-84%
0.42 X 70 = 29.4%
0.42 X 84 = 35.3%
From this example, we can see that a 42% can meter anywhere between 35.3% and 29.4%. Now factor in the additional variables due to VLT tolerances, meter tolerances, etc and the results can vary by an additional 3%-4%. If you do business in a 35% net law state, take note.
You can adapt this example to suit any film you are considering. Just substitute the 42% (0.42) for another value.
Example #2: What film should I use if my net law requires 35%?
For this example, we will do basically the same calculation (backward).
0.35 / 70 = 50.0%
0.35 / 84 = 41.6%
We can see that if the customer has dark factory tint (70%) then 50% film would be required to hit the 35% net target. If the customer has lighter glass (closer to 84%) then a 42% film can probably be used. The calculation will work both ways. Don’t forget to factor in the other variables and perform the test shot.
I hope this post is helpful. If you have any questions, feel free to contact me at howard@buytint.com
-Howard

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Hi TTS,
 
Thank you for allowing me the opportunity to explain.
 
The Similarities:
Both of these products incorporate the nano particles within the laminating adhesive.  Both ATO and TiN are readily available on the commercial market in liquid suspension.  Neither company can make any claims as to the uniqueness of this component.  It is neither proprietary or exclusive. 
 
The Difference (and it's a big one):
Is the base film.  The Global QDPC is based on the tried and true QDP dip dyed base film.  Deep dyed (liquid bath) represents the absolute gold standard in color stability.  Let's put Global aside for a moment.  Does Llumar (the king) use deep dyed base film for their top of the line products, or the method used in the Flex?  When considering the best performing and most color stable products sold in the USA, what method is used to dye the base film?  You guessed it.  Deep dip (bath) dye.
 
Let's just put Flex aside for a moment, because it would not be right or fair to single out Ralph or Flex:
 
Many people do not understand why the imported films just don't have the same level of color stability you would have in a film such as Llumar or Global.  Is it because the foreign manufacturers are trying to pinch pennies?  No.  Is it because they don't have talented technical departments?  No.  The reason is much more simple.  They can't get their hands on the deep dip dyed base film.  So they resort to every other technique possible to get the color into the film.  Coating, dyed chips and other methods.
 
As Ralph mentioned, the source company is a very large and prominent producer of PET films.  I have to admit, when I visited their facilities, I was extremely impressed with the size and scope of their laminating operation.  They probably have more coating lines operating in one place than any other company in the world.  I seem to remember losing count after the first twenty-five or so machines.  I have never seen anything like it either before or after and believe me, I have been to a factory or two.
 
But.....   Finished window film is but a very, very small part of that company.  And they are far from a "powerhouse" when it comes to world wide market share.  As much as I liked both the people and the facilities I saw when I was there, I did not think they had the kind of product that would hit home runs for EWF in the USA. 
 
I have no desire to disparage that product.  I can say a great deal of positive things about it.  The color dye technology used is far superior to the coating and dye chip technologies that are the hallmark of films from that area of the world.  But believe me, if that method were the best method - the USA majors would be using it - and they are certainly not.
 
-Howard

Hi LTL,
Thanks for dropping this "Pearl of Wisdom". It bears repeating:
There are only three things that any window film can do (regardless of the brand):

Reflect
Absorb
Transmit
(Solar Energy)
The laws of physics apply equally to all manufacturers. One of the most important and overlooked aspects of film vs. film comparisons is the ratio of these three parameters, which in all cases must equal 100. Ceramics tend to be higher absorbers for a given VLT. Films like Silver (which are the most visibly reflective) will have lower absorptions. Hybrid Dyed/Metal Films, Sputtered Films, Oxidized All-Metal films will fall in between.
Due to the fact that some of the energy which is absorbed does get radiated inward, it's is always best to reflect it away as LTL pointed out.
What complicates the situation is the requirement that visible surface reflectivity not be appreciably increased. At that point, some solar performance will be sacrificed in an effort to achieve the right balance between performance and aesthetics. You're always working backward from Silver however. Silver is King. If solar control were the one any only objective (without regard to other tangential considerations) we would all be installing nothing but Silver.
There is such an array of choices on the market that even many within the industry are a little overwhelmed. I do not fault the manufacturers for constantly innovating and I do not attribute any dubious motives to their efforts. They are trying to please customers like every other business on this planet.
If there is one fault on their part, I think that the manufacturers do not do enough on an educational level. There are so many myths and misconceptions that continue to pervade throughout the industry. At the same time, as the sophistication and knowledge on the part of dealers increases, they become proportionately less susceptible to the marketing campaigns.
Knowledge is the one commodity that knows no diminishing returns.
My post is off topic.
-Howard

Hi Jayz81,
Bingo.
The sputtered films are the culprits - the Ni Chrome Films in particular.
Standard vapor deposited aluminum films (typcial dyed-metal hybrids) are no factor. We have been selling the Global CHP for more than a decade without a single report of signal issues. If you are unsure what metals are in your film or which deposition method was used, check with your manufacturer.
For some reason, the myth that all metal films block signals still persists. Having metal in the film provides a dramatic increase in solar performance. It is a shame that many dealers rule it out over unfounded concerns.
-Howard

Hi Jayz81,
Bingo.
The sputtered films are the culprits - the Ni Chrome Films in particular.
Standard vapor deposited aluminum films (typcial dyed-metal hybrids) are no factor. We have been selling the Global CHP for more than a decade without a single report of signal issues. If you are unsure what metals are in your film or which deposition method was used, check with your manufacturer.
For some reason, the myth that all metal films block signals still persists. Having metal in the film provides a dramatic increase in solar performance. It is a shame that many dealers rule it out over unfounded concerns.
-Howard

There really is an awful lot of confusion about this. I get questions about this at least 2-3 times per week here at EWF.
If the film’s construction includes the Titanium Nitride (TiN) or Antimony Tin Oxide (ATO) nano particles, it can be technically referred to as a ceramic. The most significant difference is how the particles are deposited. The most precise method is via sputtering. Films like Huper are sputtered. Another (popular) method is to insert them into the laminating adhesive, since Tin and ATO can be purchased in a liquid suspension. This method is somewhat less precise, but it does achieve the objective of depositing the particles onto the film.
Most of this information is probably a bit too much for the average consumer to absorb.
The single most common misconception involves the base film itself. When people hear the term ceramic, they think about coffee cups and fancy dinner plates. Ceramic films are polyester films (PET), just like all other films. The difference is that they have the nano particles either sputtered or liquid coated on to them. Remember that the particles themselves comprise a miniscule percentage of the film’s total mass.
You can think of them as a typical roll of polyester window film (PET Film) with a special coating (either sputtered or liquid coated/laminated).
I hope this helps.
-Howard

There are already perhaps 100+ posts on these boards explaining this, but it bears repeating:

Of 100% of the Solar Energy which reaches the earth's surface:

49% Is within the Visible Band
49% Is within the Infra-Red Band
2%  Is within the Ultra-Violet Band

ALL of this energy will heat the interior of a car, home, boat or office.

The single performance metric which encompasses this entire spectrum is the Total Solar Energy Rejected (TSER).  The film with the highest TSER is blocking the most Total Solar Energy.  

The IR bulbs emit energy only within a very narrow spectral range and therefore, should not be relied upon for making assessments of the "heat blocking" capability of any film.  The IWFA refers to such practices as confusing and misleading to customers, when TSER data is available.  The NFRC publishes SHGC, which is mathematically linked to TSER.

I though we were over these bulb demos but we are still beating that dead horse.  

As to the subject matter (the title of this thread):

Show me a man who thinks ceramic films are a "gimmick" and I will show you a man that does not understand luminous efficacy, which is the "holy grail" of window film design/engineering.  Ceramic films have given our industry the ability to selectively filter wavelengths, like never before.  They are not a gimmick.  They represent the greatest breakthrough for our industry in the last decade.

-Howard

There was a time (7+ years ago) when our NR 2 Ply Films were 1.2M thick.   For production efficiencies, it started making more sense to run everything as a 1.5.  We have so many legacy customers that order films as 1.2 that we did not want to create a train wreck of confusion, so the names have held.
 
NR Classic Charcoal & Classic Black are both 1.5M thick.
 
Sincere apologies for the confusion.
 
-Howard

Thanks pkj08,
 
You are correct.  The Classic Series films (CS) are all Color Stable (CS). 
 
Regards,
 
Howard

Without question, there are applications where good old Silver 15% will get the job done at a fraction of the cost.  What is unique about the ceramics is that they provide the high TSER at higher VLTs, hence the higher Luminous Efficacy.  That is where they truly excel. 
 
To answer your specific questions:
 
Aesthetics:  If high VLR is not a problem, Silver will not disappoint.  You may run into folks that would not want it on their home.
 
Longevity:  Silver will do very well in the long haul.  Aluminum is quite stable and corrosion resistant.  The adhesive might fail before the base film does.
 
Signal Blockage:  If it's just vapor aluminum, it will not appreciably attenuate a signal.  Sputtered aluminum may, however.  Check with your supplier regarding the specific process used to metalize the film.  Since this is mostly for architectural application (and not auto) signal blockage is normally not a factor.  If a customer is concerned about their cell phone reception, just take a page sized piece of Silver 15% and wrap it around their cell phone to check the signal strength.
 
Silver 15% delivers great "bang for the buck" if VLR is not an issue.
 
-Howard

There are already perhaps 100+ posts on these boards explaining this, but it bears repeating:

Of 100% of the Solar Energy which reaches the earth's surface:

49% Is within the Visible Band
49% Is within the Infra-Red Band
2%  Is within the Ultra-Violet Band

ALL of this energy will heat the interior of a car, home, boat or office.

The single performance metric which encompasses this entire spectrum is the Total Solar Energy Rejected (TSER).  The film with the highest TSER is blocking the most Total Solar Energy.  

The IR bulbs emit energy only within a very narrow spectral range and therefore, should not be relied upon for making assessments of the "heat blocking" capability of any film.  The IWFA refers to such practices as confusing and misleading to customers, when TSER data is available.  The NFRC publishes SHGC, which is mathematically linked to TSER.

I though we were over these bulb demos but we are still beating that dead horse.  

As to the subject matter (the title of this thread):

Show me a man who thinks ceramic films are a "gimmick" and I will show you a man that does not understand luminous efficacy, which is the "holy grail" of window film design/engineering.  Ceramic films have given our industry the ability to selectively filter wavelengths, like never before.  They are not a gimmick.  They represent the greatest breakthrough for our industry in the last decade.

-Howard

It is as close to indestructible that you will ever find in this industry.
 
Fair disclosure:  I am the exclusive distributor for Global in 25 of the US States.  They are also my main partners for our top shelf private label films, which I sell all over the world, including the most harsh and drastic climates on the planet.  You just cannot kill this product. 
 
I have been involved in the industry since 1982.  I have witnessed and lived thru catastrophic failures.  I know that "bad runs" and "bad batches" are (for most people) just part of this game.  But since I started distributing Global (over 10 years ago) we have been waiting for the proverbial "other shoe to drop".  It has not happened.  Problems with these films are so rare, so isolated and so contained that they are mere "blips" on what can only be described as a stellar record.
 
No window film company will ever please everyone.  Not Global, 3M or even Llumar.  But if I were given a choice to pick from any manufacturer's products to have in our warehouse, I would pick Global without hesitating for a nanosecond.  When the phone rings, we want orders - repeat orders from happy customers.  Not complaints and not warranty claims.  That is what we have with these Global films.  No, they are not perfect (no window film is) but Global is as good as you are going to get.
 
The reason for it?  Global remains (to this day) the only window film company that is producing these products starting at the molecular level.  So many window film manufacturers are really just coating & laminating companies.  Not Global.  These guys are petrochemical engineers whose understanding of this material is far deeper than any other team.
 
Are there other fine brands on the market?  You bet.  But if you have not given Global a chance, give your regional distributor a call today and order up a few rolls of QDP, CHP or the absolutely phenomenal QDP Ceramic.  You will be able to feel the quality as soon as you put your hands on it and aim your heat gun at it.  It's beautiful to look at, work with and it will probably last at least as long as your customer owns the vehicle - not matter how harsh your climate zone.
 
-Howard

Hi Rjsi,
 
Wow those are beautiful pics.  I really like that micro edge pic in the 6th one down - very fine workmanship.
 
And those cars will continue looking that good for a very, very long time.  That film is built like a brick house.  We sell it in the most severe climates on this planet.
 
Thanks,
 
Howard

Ric,
 
I cannot thank you enough for extending that professional courtesy to me.   Hosting this forum is a tremendous responsibility and in addition to all the hard work and long hours, it requires a tremendous amount of discipline, good judgement, discretion and above all, an appreciation for fair play.  I cannot think of anyone more trustworthy to be the custodian of these boards, which are part of the very fabric of our industry.
 
Shadeking continues to ignore my emails, phone calls and overtures.  We have now invested a lot of of time, effort and money flying samples all over the world.
 
To all those who have shown their support, you have my sincere gratitude and thanks. 
 
In life, we all make mistakes.  I make more than my fair share, I can assure you of that.  I think ShadeKing has taught us a lesson in how not to handle yourself when you find yourself in that situation.
 
Regards,
 
Howard

Good Afternoon To All,
 
I have arrived here in sunny Florida.
 
A UPS pickup request has been entered.  I have sent Shadeking an email respectfully requesting that he respond to our legitimate request to send us back a sample of the removed film for inspection.  I also need the roll number.
 
If I am reading posts #32 and #43 correctly, Shadeking installed the film 2 years ago and that definitively rules out Classic Black based upon his purchase history.
 
If this turns out to be a bona fide warrantable failure of that product - I am promising (in a public forum) to do the following:
 
I will travel to his location and apologize to Shadeking person I will pay him (in cash) full invoice value for every car he retinted I will pay him and additional ($500 total) in cash for the inconvenience I will call every one of the retail customers, take personal responsibility and apologize to them I will send every one of those retail customers a $100 gift certificate for their favorite restaurant But first I need a sample of that film, a copy of the warranty and the sales receipt and the master roll number.
 
Again - I believe that this is a paperwork error, but I owe it to him, the factory, my staff and all of our valued customers to get to the bottom of this.
 
Shadeking - please give UPS that removed sample.  I need to get it evaluated on my end and sent to the factory. 
 
I am so confident in the quality of the products that I am willing to honor every one of the promises above, but I need your cooperation.
 
 
Thanks,
 
Howard

Sincere thanks for all the support (from all over the world).  Any long term user of CB would take one look at that pic and know that it's not CB or any of the color stable Global/Garware products in the EWF line.  A complete loss of color after 2 years?  Fuhgetaboutit (as we used to say in Brooklyn).
 
It's a shame that a paperwork/record keeping snafu took on a life of it's own.  For the record, I still have not received a return phone call, a returned email and as of yesterday there is still no sample on the way to us for evaluation.
 
SK - please, please do not put a piece of that faded film on display in your shop area and label it Classic Black.  Call me as soon as you can so we can get this all worked out.
 
Thanks,
 
Howard  
 
SPECIAL NOTE:   POST #87 (2 POSTS DOWN) CONTAINS FALSE AND MISLEADING PICTURES.  THE FILM IN THE PICTURE IS NOT CLASSIC BLACK.  THE AUTHOR OF THE POST HAS BEEN NOTIFIED AND A DEMAND HAS BEEN MADE THAT THE PICTURES BE REMOVED FROM THIS THREAD.  SAMPLES OF THIS FILM HAVE BEEN COLLECTED AND ANALYZED.  THIS IS NOT CLASSIC BLACK WINDOW FILM.

In the defense of the ShadeKing.. It could still actually be a misunderstanding.. I think that SK has just mistaken his films.. Either way.. I was always 100% sure that it wasn't the Classic Black from the outset. Just need the Shade King to man up and admit to the errors of his ways now.

Edit post.. I kind of said what Howard said... However as usual.. He said it far better than I...
No need for my post now

It is as close to indestructible that you will ever find in this industry.
 
Fair disclosure:  I am the exclusive distributor for Global in 25 of the US States.  They are also my main partners for our top shelf private label films, which I sell all over the world, including the most harsh and drastic climates on the planet.  You just cannot kill this product. 
 
I have been involved in the industry since 1982.  I have witnessed and lived thru catastrophic failures.  I know that "bad runs" and "bad batches" are (for most people) just part of this game.  But since I started distributing Global (over 10 years ago) we have been waiting for the proverbial "other shoe to drop".  It has not happened.  Problems with these films are so rare, so isolated and so contained that they are mere "blips" on what can only be described as a stellar record.
 
No window film company will ever please everyone.  Not Global, 3M or even Llumar.  But if I were given a choice to pick from any manufacturer's products to have in our warehouse, I would pick Global without hesitating for a nanosecond.  When the phone rings, we want orders - repeat orders from happy customers.  Not complaints and not warranty claims.  That is what we have with these Global films.  No, they are not perfect (no window film is) but Global is as good as you are going to get.
 
The reason for it?  Global remains (to this day) the only window film company that is producing these products starting at the molecular level.  So many window film manufacturers are really just coating & laminating companies.  Not Global.  These guys are petrochemical engineers whose understanding of this material is far deeper than any other team.
 
Are there other fine brands on the market?  You bet.  But if you have not given Global a chance, give your regional distributor a call today and order up a few rolls of QDP, CHP or the absolutely phenomenal QDP Ceramic.  You will be able to feel the quality as soon as you put your hands on it and aim your heat gun at it.  It's beautiful to look at, work with and it will probably last at least as long as your customer owns the vehicle - not matter how harsh your climate zone.
 
-Howard

It is as close to indestructible that you will ever find in this industry.
 
Fair disclosure:  I am the exclusive distributor for Global in 25 of the US States.  They are also my main partners for our top shelf private label films, which I sell all over the world, including the most harsh and drastic climates on the planet.  You just cannot kill this product. 
 
I have been involved in the industry since 1982.  I have witnessed and lived thru catastrophic failures.  I know that "bad runs" and "bad batches" are (for most people) just part of this game.  But since I started distributing Global (over 10 years ago) we have been waiting for the proverbial "other shoe to drop".  It has not happened.  Problems with these films are so rare, so isolated and so contained that they are mere "blips" on what can only be described as a stellar record.
 
No window film company will ever please everyone.  Not Global, 3M or even Llumar.  But if I were given a choice to pick from any manufacturer's products to have in our warehouse, I would pick Global without hesitating for a nanosecond.  When the phone rings, we want orders - repeat orders from happy customers.  Not complaints and not warranty claims.  That is what we have with these Global films.  No, they are not perfect (no window film is) but Global is as good as you are going to get.
 
The reason for it?  Global remains (to this day) the only window film company that is producing these products starting at the molecular level.  So many window film manufacturers are really just coating & laminating companies.  Not Global.  These guys are petrochemical engineers whose understanding of this material is far deeper than any other team.
 
Are there other fine brands on the market?  You bet.  But if you have not given Global a chance, give your regional distributor a call today and order up a few rolls of QDP, CHP or the absolutely phenomenal QDP Ceramic.  You will be able to feel the quality as soon as you put your hands on it and aim your heat gun at it.  It's beautiful to look at, work with and it will probably last at least as long as your customer owns the vehicle - not matter how harsh your climate zone.
 
-Howard

Hi Addicted To Tint,
 
I am glad that it all worked out in the end.  The people working here are all very careful and they really do try.
 
Just a few points here to clarify:
 
I know it seemed to take a long time to get to you, but the in-transit time was as published (2 days) for your address
 
If you look up the order history - it is timestamped as 11:45PM on Dec 26th (we close at 5PM)
It was packed and shipped at 09:01AM on the 27th, which was the next morning (also timestamped in the order history)
Dec 30 was a normal UPS ground transit day
Dec 31 UPS was only delivering air packages
Jan 01 UPS was completely closed
Jan 02 UPS delivered the package
 
UPS sent a tracking email (it's completely automated) to the email address given when the order was placed.  The published delivery date is included.  Sometimes our customers do not receive them (spam filters, etc) but they are sent automatically by the UPS Worldship System.
 
I believe that I wrote about this previously, but I stand by my statement that net meters should not be used as film-only meters.  This is the advice we were given by the factory as well as the manufacturer of the net meter.  If you know something that I do not, please share it.  As it was explained to me - there is a large fixed gap in those net meters and a lot of light leaks into it unless you fill in that gap (with the glass).  By contrast, film only meters have very tiny apertures to prevent any ambient light from effecting the reading.
 
I understand your anecdotal argument that the sample page was reading differently than the actual roll which is why we offered to pick it up, meter and swap it.  As it turns out, the roll you received was within the +/- 3% tolerance.
 
Please do ask your coworkers there.  I myself had called and left numerous messages before I got Paula.  She is very nice and I enjoyed speaking with her, but I was not able to convince her either that net meters should not be used for film only measurements. 
 
Pasquale did enter your pickup tag on Jan 09 and UPS Transmitted it the very next day Jan 10.  It looks like you gave the driver the package on Jan 13 and we received it on Jan 15th.  No delays there.
 
We did meter the film at 46% but for the sake of accuracy, we sent samples to the factory for confirmation.  We also sent along samples of the roll we intended to send you as a replacement.  A lot of effort went into this on our end over a very small difference in percentage - but we will always do what it takes to help a customer.  As I mentioned before, I know your request was based on the legal requirements.  I have other customers with the same requirements.
 
We sincerely appreciate the update and the upgrade - we really try hard to get it right.
 
-Howard

Hi Pjtintz,
 
Physical properties are as follows:
 
Global Quick Dry PLUS:
Type:  NR Dip Dyed Polyester
Ply - 2
Thickness - 1.5M
Color Stable - Yes
 
Express Classic Black:
Type:  NR Dip Dyed Polyester
Ply - 2
Thickness - 1.5M
Color Stable - Yes
 
Classic Black has been color matched for EWF to compete with the Carbon product from Sun-Tek.  The other difference is that the warranty on CB is backed by EWF whereas the warranty on QDP is backed by Global/Garware.  We have been in business for 32 years, they have been in business for close to 100 years,
 
Also - the Global product ships in that beautiful glossy black box.  It is perhaps the strongest, most beautiful (and most expensive) box in the industry.  Our new EWF blue boxes are very strong as well.  I weigh close to 180lbs and I an stand on it without crushing it.
 
I am here for you if you have any questions.  (800)FILM-NOW
 
Regards,
 
Howard

There remains to a large degree, a great deal of confusion about automotive film laws and which films are compatible with which cars, in which states and under which circumstances.
If these are issues you are already very familiar with, bear with me. Based upon the continuous flow of questions we get at EWF about this issue, I am creating this post to help make things a little clearer for all of those who are still a little confused by it.
Not a week goes by when we don’t get a call from a dealer(s) asking why their customer got a ticket when they put 35% film on a car and “the law says 35%”.
First: There are two types of laws:
Film Laws: Laws that regulate only the applied film
Net Laws: Laws that regulate the net transmission of glass+film (most common)
You are responsible for knowing what type of law your state has on the books. If you need an up-to-date listing state laws, there is a terrific website called Tintdude that has a list. I suggest you visit that site some day.
Second: There are variables
You are aiming at a moving target, so you have to adjust accordingly. Here are some of the variables you need to take into account:
VLT range of the glass 70% - 84% (generally)
VLT variance on your film +/- 3% per industry guidelines
VLT precision on your meter +/- 3% some meters are worse than this
State Law Tolerances +/- 3% (This will vary from state to state)
Some brief Do’s and Don’t’s:
Do own a meter
Do perform a “test shot” (more on that below)
Do discuss the law with your clients
Do ask your film supplier about all the available VLT’s they offer
Do know about the law enforcement situation – Is it part of annual inspection?
Do strive to become an expert on this topic – your customers are depending on you
Do keep your meter battery fresh and learn how to self calibrate it (if possible).
Do keep a variety of shades on hand so your customer has a choice.
Do NOT put a piece of film into a net (glass+film) meter and rely upon that reading
Do NOT guess. Instead, measure
Do NOT guarantee your customer a legal reading unless you are certain it’s legal
Do NOT hesitate to ask your supplier if you have questions.
How to perform a “test shot”:
To do this, all you need is a meter and a small piece of film (4 inches X 4 inches perhaps). Install the small piece of film onto the window and meter it. Do this before you proceed with the actual installation. Show the reading to the customer and discuss the applicable state law (including any allowable variances). Once you both agree that the VLT range is within your requirements and expectations proceed with the job.
Meter Math:
Get out your calculator. Here we go:
Example #1: What is the expected net range for an applied 42% film?
As discussed above, the VLT range on the glass itself is generally 70%-84%
0.42 X 70 = 29.4%
0.42 X 84 = 35.3%
From this example, we can see that a 42% can meter anywhere between 35.3% and 29.4%. Now factor in the additional variables due to VLT tolerances, meter tolerances, etc and the results can vary by an additional 3%-4%. If you do business in a 35% net law state, take note.
You can adapt this example to suit any film you are considering. Just substitute the 42% (0.42) for another value.
Example #2: What film should I use if my net law requires 35%?
For this example, we will do basically the same calculation (backward).
0.35 / 70 = 50.0%
0.35 / 84 = 41.6%
We can see that if the customer has dark factory tint (70%) then 50% film would be required to hit the 35% net target. If the customer has lighter glass (closer to 84%) then a 42% film can probably be used. The calculation will work both ways. Don’t forget to factor in the other variables and perform the test shot.
I hope this post is helpful. If you have any questions, feel free to contact me at howard@buytint.com
-Howard

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