alberts316

3 hours?? Sounds like a bit of a stretch if you did grill surround, bumper, headlights along with hood fenders and tint all around.  Granted super easy truck to work on but c'mon 3 hours

Finish your edges with a hot-mix of alcohol? (14oz of 70% in a 32oz squirt bottle, the rest distilled water)  I have not had any headlights, etc peel, so maybe that is the issue?  I suggest and do as many headlights as possible. NO soap at all, just that mix of alcohol for the installation, no problems sticking. (Other than Porsche headlight which I never do because of the stupid hard coat that peels off the headlights)
 
I often spray the last 2 or 3 inches of whatever with that alcohol.  Who's film are you using?  All the top brands should be fine, Suntek, Xpel, 3m, etc...

Can you have any worse experience getting your car tinted?  

Hello, what did you end up using eventually? And how was the final result?

Yes I did. We aren't really a review site, that is best left to sites like yelp.

Is it time to hang up the pouch? I think i've seen it all at this point. From issues with water frying pricey electronics on door panel switches ( new range rovers), frying computers on rear decks (new Mercedes), and faulty brittle defroster lines (I've seen it on jeeps, chrysler, and Buick), the delicate U.V. coating on the newer Lexus and Toyotas, and now your telling me that plastic can scratch glass?! it seems like doing cars is starting to be a liability, regardless of safety measures.  To the OP, thanks for posting this. will keep an eye out for these Audis. 

That is definitely installer error. You can see where his tool went past the film when he was shrinking it, scratching the glass. I mean, what is this installer using to shrink the film? A metal puitty kniife?
 
I would NOT take no for an answer from this shop. That is what they have insurance for.

If you can feel the scratches with your nail, they wont polish. Polishing also leaves a visible distortion.

It seems like that glass is way more fragile than it should be.

These scratches were done by sand or dirt being in the sweeps on the outside of the window before it was rolled down. The bottom of the window(where the window is the most curved and tightest against the sweep) will release a little from the sweep as it goes down, which is why the scratches are not that long. The debris moves out of the way as the window goes down.  I am willing to bet there are full length lighter scratches also.  
 
Not sure where you live but if it is coastal or northern with the possibility of sand being in the environment, then that would be your culprit.   
Also, the reason you can now see them better is because you tinted the windows.  Exterior scratches and pings will show up more after tint. 

They called me and I told them I wasn’t at all interested in their film. The girl said ok and told me to have a nice day. I liked that. She wasn’t pushy or nasty. I still don’t want their film, but the girl on the phone wasn’t an asshole. So that’s what merited my comment, and all I have to say about Xsun. 

Will the warranty claims deliver your payment as fast?  To get you into buying is easy for them... once the catch is on the table is easy pickings.   I have seen a few shops here use it, even fly their banner... I cannot face palm myself anymore every time I see one using it.    

I think a small spoiler like a "Lip" if you are referring to, would be ok attaching with double sided tape.  Tesla OEM spoilers are all held on with it, and none fall off.  I would say every "lip" style spoiler is held on by tape.  If you are worried, just put some adhesive promotor on the film before you attach it.  No way it will come off the film after that.  
 
I guess a picture of said spoiler would solve this question more accurately. 

Charge as much or more than anyone around then do the job until it looks good enough.  You might not make much but you won't be lowballing the pricing either!  

He's only done 4 cars. Near perfect is a long way off.  

I'd take a step back and reevaluate doing retail work until you have more skill. Your best bet would be to work as a helper in a shop until you have a lot more experience. 
 
When you are to the point you can tint any car with confidence and do it well, also knowing how to handle a customer and their expectations, then start advertising and taking in work.
 
If you are doing good work and have happy customers, they will advertise for you. So wait until you are much better at this before charging. 
 
If you jump in this too early and start putting out sub par work and unhappy customers, you are going to have nothing but grief.

A few jobs, some printed film and 3M Dusted Crystal.

Its been 16 ish years . Pretty sure they are over it....???

When I sense a customer is expecting perfection, I try to explain a little about the process and lower their expectations, then if I meet or exceed those expectations, everyone is happy, otherwise the perfectionist customer will always be disappointed or worse.

This is the "thunderdome" and you must not have been around long!
 
 
The truth is this golf guy is NOT going to be happy. He is going to think that he didn't get dark enough, the heat rejection isn't what he thought it would be, defroster lines will be sparkling with headlights behind at night, the normal less than perfect tint job will have to many "bubbles" of dust, he'll see the imperfections in his window glass that show up with tint applied!
 
He will not be happy....so I told the truth.

You answered your question by searching.  Is your forecast "freezing"? NO!  Even if it was i bet you park in a garage....
 
I don't think you are going to be happy with any tint you get.  You're way to worried about EVERYTHING and second guessing everything!
 
Do us all a favor and either just get the tint and trust the shop or don't.

Less slip is best . Just enough to position .
 
Eat your Wheaties before installation .
SLOW DOWN !!!!  Pretend its your job to remove ALL the water/slip solution !!  Oh wait ...IT IS YOUR JOB!!
The faster you go, the more "hydro planing " happens leaving slip solution behind.
Use a  solid blue blade squeegee no more than 6" wide .
 
HORIZONTAL PASSES ONLY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Vertical passes leave trails water will follow causing blisters.
Horizontal leaves no place for water to flow.
Water pressure at any depth is the same in a slip trail , fish tank or the lake. It will push the film off the glass!!
 
For easy alignment of your squeegee passes ,line up handle with the division between wet and dry from your last pass.
Be sure to "snowplow "at about 10° steering slip solution down the glass with each pass.

@flat rock stan has great DVD set of you want "online"
 
He also does a School at Saint Louis and Portland OR.
 
He is the one I would choose.

Are you wearing polarized glasses by chance?

Please stop spamming.