pbalentine

The only thing you can do is try and turn it into a positive, which I know may be difficult. I would have my shop pristine at all times with all employees very professional looking polos or what not. Try and set yourself way apart from them. Anyone can beat you price, but it's tough to beat the one that wants to outdo.

Nothings worse when they ask you to match some redicoulsly low price.  They obviously do not trust the place and only like their price...thats it!  No, i will not match that price....thats one reason why i charge more...trust!  Sometimes i say i’ll say i price match “reputable” shops, so whats the shops name?? They never know.... 

Tell them to go and get a $99 tint job somewhere. Then you can make money on a removal when they realize it was a bad idea. 
 
Dont sell yourself short! I get people that cancel on me and I always think what a bummer. Within 24 hours I always get a replacement customer and 9 out of 10 times it’s a car I’d much rather tint lol. 
 
Only have had your issue a couple times and never budged. 

I'll stick to my prices as I believe I offer a great service. My work (in my opinion) is high quality.
 
Just going through a bad week for it I think. Also, the customers that think I'm too expensive are usually the Facebook quotes, not by the ones that call from finding my site on google.

Your only worth as much as you charge.. So figure that out and then double it. That way you only do very high end cars for a very high end customers. Then you dont even hear from that kind of customer.

By lowering your price for “that” customer... you diminish your value and your worth. My price is my price. Friends and family get discounts... but as soon as someone says I’m High. Or can I do it cheaper... I tack 10% to the price. That usually does the trick

The speed is all relative. Where is the old triangle (Quality, Price, Speed) where you get two choices?
 
One of the three has to be missing...

Probably faster than anyone on here! Just kidding..i double cut, but when i make a mistake its usually 10-15 to trim, shrink & install one rollup.  

Probably faster than anyone on here! Just kidding..i double cut, but when i make a mistake its usually 10-15 to trim, shrink & install one rollup.  

Probably faster than anyone on here! Just kidding..i double cut, but when i make a mistake its usually 10-15 to trim, shrink & install one rollup.  

Same here...did a 18’ F150 yesterday and it had a torx bolt! I agree, they should of never had it where you needed a tool to remove. 

What kind of heat gun are you using? When I have a difficult shrink I use a heat gun that has a higher cfm rating so I can pull back a little further to shrink slower. I also try to keep moving around so the film has a chance to cool, try to shrink just a little bit all the way across the top or bottom instead of focusing on a section/quadrant at a time. I also periodically blow some heat under the film, that lifting and light heat seems to help keep the film from sticking to the glass as it gets down to those corners. The biggest thing that's going to help you is to keep doing it, keep trying different techniques and learning to read your film so you know what it can and can't take when it comes to shrinking it.

Make sure to shrink towards the factory edge in the corners. It helps t look at the film before you trim and shrink, so you can see how the angle of the heat gun will change as you get to corners. 

Same here...did a 18’ F150 yesterday and it had a torx bolt! I agree, they should of never had it where you needed a tool to remove. 

Its funny how i’ll tuck one side of a vehicle and get bored, then bomb drop the other.  Going against myself the bomb drop wins everytime as in less creases, less contaminatin and above all....less stress.  Pulling panels makes tinting as easy as i wished it to be when i picked up the trade.  
 

Potato potato , tomato tomato. 

Years back i started holding the blade how you would a pen (blade where pen tip would be) and trimming from right to left.  Im right handed and make patterns on drive side of vehicle. Took the stress out of top cuts, and made them a breeze.  

My system kept me from having to hire another a tinter. There are two of us and we get along. Every tinter that comes in does 10 cars a day, perfect, and never misses a day of work. The reality is they cry after 3, all of them come back, and they miss more days than they work. Dealing with tinters gets old, and even as a 1 man show like this week with my help out with pneumonia, it’s been a godsend as I am able to keep up with our appointments being in 2 places at once with the cutter. I’ve been using precision cut pretty consistently since 2010-2011 and I can say it’s pretty rare that something is completely awful with patterns. We’ve adjusted our installs to the patterns though, so maybe that helps versus those who think the patterns should adjust to their style, no matter how ridiculous it is. 
 
I’ll leave it at this. If precision cut costs you the equivalent of 1-2 tint jobs a month, the flip side at least for me is that it’s allowed the two of us to do 2-3 more jobs a day with greater consistency, less waste and less frustration. I will never complain about a couple hundred a month if it means an extra $10,000 a month. 

do whatcha gotta do.......tons of cock strokers here....

This sums it up...pin it and end thread. 

Yeah, slip isnt gonna clean that good, especially gaskets caked in dirt and grime.  I use a separate sraymaster with dawn ultra for cleaning. Even in the summer with a ton of slip i dont like it.   Dawn is cheaper too.   

You guys should really invest a couple bucks in a small rubber mallet.  
 
A miss lick can happen even when being careful.   There is no way I would swing anything else near or at any windshield.  
 
Once you release the clip clip from the shear line , just bump the base with mallet.  It is non marring, so no damage. 
 
Be smart.  Nothing hard needs to be swung at windshields.   
 
 

Yes I am also VERY straightforward with the customers with removals. I tell them especially with older cars that there is a chance they are going to loose their defroster lines and that i am not liable if they are lost.
 
I usually tell them that it is 100$ for the back window plus 50/hour if it takes me more than one hour for just the rear window, and usually 50 for all sides. I also will not remove it unless they get it re-tinted as well. When they hear that they usually go to my competition and get the whole thing removed for 100$ (thankfully). And they use ASWF so when they bring it back to me because it looks like S$$T and it is a S**T job it is usually pretty easy to remove because it is ASWF so win win for me. 
 
And whenever someone bitches or complains i just hand them a few razor blades a couple of old scrubby pads and tell them to get some windex and start scrapping sides and scrubbing real window themselves...... usually they will come back and pay me to finish it AND the job will be half done.
 
 

If you have the extra cash go ahead and book a flight tonight to Mexico. 

It's true, there's a speed that is "too fast". There's one dude on youtube bragging he's the fastest, but his comments are shut off because it's such a sloppy install. When it comes to "fast and accurate" you have to find your own sweet spot, want it fast it won't be accurate, want it accurate it won't be fast.