highplains

I haven't done a ton of vinyl work so take everything I say here with a grain of salt. It's probably as good as any to attempt on your own, that hood is pretty wide in the rear corners so not sure how that's going to figure dimensionally for you without being able to measure it myself. You're going to need to address the peeling paint one way or another before wrapping it otherwise it'll give you adhesion problems and you'll see the ugly spots ghosted in the film. As far as material goes Avery is supposed to be the most forgiving for the beginner from what I've heard and in my limited experience. I've done some work with Avery, 3M, and most recently Hexis.

I won't double layer film and I won't go darker than 50% on a windshield.

Boss 302 w/coyote today. Just the rear glass. Whoever came up with the trash bag method deserves to be in the window tinting hall of fame. This crusty film came off way better than expected. 

I went to your website. If you multiply all your prices on that website by 1.5 you may want to stay in business. Your prices are way too low. If i was thinking about buying your business i'd see that low price structure and think you had to really lowball to make money.
Just giving my 2 cents

You likely need to replace the cutting strip and make all cutting adjustments on the machine, not in your software. 

Yeah, that was my guess. I run these machines pretty hard. About 40% of my year is working with vinyl. I was fortunate enough to have a sign shop next door to me when I was training years ago. Those guys were kind enough to let me apprentice in my spare time and take on some of the overflow when I was up to task. It's been nice to have multiple trade skills to draw from. 

@Danothat makes more sense now. In my situation I'm generally only running a vehicle or twos worth of PPF before swapping back to tint so it's not seeing that difference for a prolonged time period.

Just did one the other day and I was able to pull them still have the last little mark from the cut to my middle finger from the sharp plastic of the release. You have to hit the little button on the headrest itself so it folds forward and then you can hit the release on both posts to remove. 

That hasn't been my experience. I also use a 25* for tint and a 60* for ppf and switch between the two regularly without issue. I use a FC8600 and have separate blade holders and presets for tint and ppf. The only time I've had an issue that effected the cut strip was when I've screwed up and forgot to change either the blade or the preset back.

I've been with Xpel the past couple years and haven't had any issues so far.

@DougW  Yeah, good luck.  I have had the same issue for years.  Using the "downtown buildings at night" example and they still don't get it.  The only way to get it across is to actually show them(put them in the situation).  Meaning you would have to go to the house at night with the brightest lights you can find, point them at said window with them standing outside with you.  They will see the light reflection causes you not to see in until you turn it off and there is no more light.  You would also have to have someone inside turning all the other lights on or off to show that difference also.  

I have this type of set-up at my shop using the big glass windows and doors that separate my waiting area from my work area with mirrored film on them. I am able to turn off the light up front and keep the light on in back or vice versa, to help show the actual physics of the situation. It's not perfect but it sorta helps.  
 
The other option for putting them in this situation is if they have a tinted vehicle and a very dark garage, put them inside the vehicle, turn the lights out in garage and turn the interior lights on in the vehicle( add a bright work light or flashlight to make it bright inside the vehicle.  Then they will see that with light inside the vehicle, you can't see out in the dark.  In this demonstration, if the garage is dark enough, you can walk all the way up to vehicle and put your face on the glass and they won't see you until they turn all the lights off inside the vehicle.  
 
Trying to explain mechanical situations (physics) to people who don't get it or won't try to get it is VERY TOUGH and I HATE IT.    

I am searching for a way to explain this to otherwise seemingly intelligent humans without raising my voice and screaming at them.  I just got off the phone with a Window Contractor who can not understand this concept to save his life. I have known him for 30 years and have explained this 100+ times as well as to his customers.  I had another customer for whom I tinted 2 panes, 45x755, with a DR 35. The glass has a light gray smoke color to begin with.  His complaint was that you can still see in at night and the glass was reflective on the inside.  The glass with no film was mirror like at night. It could be due to all his walls being white or mirrors. It could be because he had more halogen lights in a small room than Lowes. I've spent more time on the phone and even made a nighttime house call to try to explain this mysterious phenomenon of physics that he never notice in his 68 years of existence. I left saying, you can't understand the professionally written data sheets, you can't understand anything I say, you can't understand what you are seeing with your own eyes, then I can't help you. He was a chronic interrupter so I literally had to tell him to shut up and listen.  
If anyone has found a way to explain this better, I'd love to hear it.

Thrillbilly hotrod today!

Also got the Wagoneer in here. It’s really nice. 

The new Maverick  
 
 

Wondering if it was the shop I’m at @Tintguy1980

Ya gotta pay to play. Stocking your shop to start out is always going to be a hefty investment up front. As far as shades go your market will dictate what you need to carry but I'd seriously consider adding a 15 or 20 to your mix.  In my shop I stock 5, 20, and 35 in a color stable dyed line as well as 5, 15, 20, 35, 55, and 70 in ceramic. I primarily use a plotter to cut so all my film is stocked in 40" rolls and I always have one full roll of film in reserve alongside the open one so I never run out of a given shade.

Ya gotta pay to play. Stocking your shop to start out is always going to be a hefty investment up front. As far as shades go your market will dictate what you need to carry but I'd seriously consider adding a 15 or 20 to your mix.  In my shop I stock 5, 20, and 35 in a color stable dyed line as well as 5, 15, 20, 35, 55, and 70 in ceramic. I primarily use a plotter to cut so all my film is stocked in 40" rolls and I always have one full roll of film in reserve alongside the open one so I never run out of a given shade.

Ya gotta pay to play. Stocking your shop to start out is always going to be a hefty investment up front. As far as shades go your market will dictate what you need to carry but I'd seriously consider adding a 15 or 20 to your mix.  In my shop I stock 5, 20, and 35 in a color stable dyed line as well as 5, 15, 20, 35, 55, and 70 in ceramic. I primarily use a plotter to cut so all my film is stocked in 40" rolls and I always have one full roll of film in reserve alongside the open one so I never run out of a given shade.

I track everything as it's cut so that I can cost out the appropriate amount of film used on each vehicle. I also use a plotter so it's easy to track it that way.

Being @Krumpers Solar Blinds why don't you tell us? Just make your pitch if you handle a product that you think we should be aware of instead of fishing for it.

Cant believe noone has been doing this as a side gig
 
 
https://www.reddit.com/r/facepalm/comments/qws5rs/diy_window_frosting/
 

'38 Ford Coupe