clear solutions

FYI... The front doors apparently have a coating on them that can be damaged if they are attempted to be tinted. 

I would reschedule it for an off day when I could figure it out without any pressure, or pay another installer to lay it so I could see what I'm missing.
 
Either way I would go upside down. If I get it right I'll know what it's worth and be known as the guy that can do it.

Using the 60” is complete waste of time. If you’re not butt seaming these by now you’re as clueless as the shop this guy went to. 

Laminated glass in architecture is almost always annealed.
 
Laminated glass in automotive is likely heat-strengthened in order to shape it.
 
Tempered lami is a minority.
 
It takes a 50 F. difference in edge temp and center temp for annealed to break.
 
It takes a 100 F. difference for heat-strengthened to break.
 
And it takes 200 F. difference for tempered to break.

Sure would be nice if Toyota would put a do not tint or use razor blades on those dang windows!! Just learned the hard way as I got the first one of those in the shop today. SHEESH!! 
I’ve been tinting for 38 plus years and never seen crap like this.

I tint for a Toyota dealership and had to learn this the hard way. These windows are easily scratched and costly to replace if damaged. NO RAZOR BLADES or any harsh solvents etc .

The easy (and nice) answer is = Rayno is not a proven film that already has issues.  3M is a stable, proven product with a good reputation. 

Hey all I am deciding between two quotes from two well reviewed shops and could use your help. I only am leasing this car for three years so if it’s going to bubble it needs to happen after I return it :)
 
One place offered 400 for 3m ceramic IR and extra 200 if I need windshield.
 
Another place uses Rayno and offered $260 s5 Ceramic Or $460 s9 Ceramic and Full windshield for $140 s5 or 200 s9 / air70 films.
 
At these prices is it worth it to do s9 over 3m? Is 3m that much better than s5?

If you see it without glasses from the inside, then it's what's called 'thin film interference'. The way the light reflects off the film interferes with itself and can cause rainbows. Same reason soap bubbles are colorful. A different brand might have less of an effect.
 

Got a few quotes for my suv with tinters in a highly competitive area. I went with the highest rated/reviewed one by far with a median price quote and was a llumar installer. When I arrived, I was shown the llumar ceramic pinwheel  display. I was shown the ceramic level tint and impressed by it's heat rejection abilities and so I agreed to the ceramic and added the front two windows on as well. I dropped my suv off a half hour early for my appointment and left in my other suv . I was not rushing the installer at all. Before I left I went over that i wanted everything to the edge or over. I don't have dot matrix on any windows. I was told it would  be computer cut and it will be perfect.  He said he doesn't need to cut anything by hand. I brought the car in showroom clean anywhere near the windows. Gaskets and window tracks all around each window were clean, 99% isopropyl on all windows to perfection, every corner. I'm now on day 3.5 of the car unused baking in the tropical sun and I have imperfections that aren't going to clear up in 30 or 300 days. There is sand/grit between glass and tint at bottom of windows, a bubble bigger then a quarter, bubbles i don't think are coming out, wrinkles, creases and over cuts, a hair. I don't mind the tint overlapping the part you can't see that's a factory non dot matrix frame, but how can you let it under lap?  When I lived in NYC I used a guy called the art of tint and when he gave me my car back the worst I'd have is micro bubbles in the whole job. I contacted the tinter and he has offered to redo the job. My concern is that almost every window except for one has an issue.  If i let him redo them and they comes out as bad or worse now he is out double time and materials and I am out my initial investment time and extra inconvenience.  Is it fair to ask for 50% back for this relatively poor tint job by my standards? My standards are a tint job that's only flaw would be microbubbles. If I roll the dice on the redo where do I go after that? Any advice would be appreciated. 

You'd buy something that you couldn't contact the sellers on? But i get it, i always look to see if i can find that lucky me cheap deal too. I would say give the model number and info to the tint software companies and see what their input is, they may have to write drivers for off brand plotters and this one may not be compatible at all, and they would know if anyone is using that model name with any success. 

well, got out of the commercial location and it's time to relax
 
set up a little shop in the home garage, upped the prices, and only tint the easy stuff from now on
 
notice, i put an 8' door in so i don't have to tint high vehicles(since i'm old)

Two things that I've learned since I've been in this business. Within 5 minutes of meeting another installer. 1 they'll tell me how fast they are. 2 how much money they make. Funny thing is generally neither is true.

3 hours?? Sounds like a bit of a stretch if you did grill surround, bumper, headlights along with hood fenders and tint all around.  Granted super easy truck to work on but c'mon 3 hours

This is what I do. Use a clay bar instead of a scrub pad (it picks up more dirt between the defroster lines) and before install I turn the rear defrosters on. I only do this to cars like mustangs etc. 

I don’t know the math for Tint on top Tint    
But look at it this way.  50% film is 50% darker than clear glass.  This is why you did not notice a difference.  The lower the percentage the darker the film.  70% film would be 20% lighter than the 50%.  30% film would be 20% darker than the 50%.  So on and so forth.  
 
To achieve a 12.5% by adding to a 25% existing shade, you would need to add at least a 30% film, if not a 25%.  

its crap tint.  In my opinion any film that can last at least 5 years is solid enough but 2 to 3 years is to soon. I've been using global for 10 years no problems. 

s7 does the same crap. I used rayno solely for several years and got warranty requests starting only after 2 yrs. Rayno makes u jump through hoops to get store credit for the warranty and they do not want to cover all the windows that fail. 

When I started getting burned the same way by ASWF crap, I did lots of research and found Global to be one of the best due to Garware being a core product company like Lulu.  Meaning they start from the beginning to make film, not the middle by adding laminate to someone else's core, like most of these failing companies like ASWcrap, FlexCrap, MaxProCrap, and RaynoCrap.  They either pass them selves off as a film maker when they are just laminators, or they rebox some cheap film in prettier boxes and call it theirs.  
 
Global is SOLID film.  Their 70% Ceramic is one of the best performing films "spectrally" across the board on the market.  Put it behind one of those expensive IR meters and see how well it performs.      It outperforms Lulu, BTW.  
You won't go wrong with Global in my opinion.  It's what I sling all day everyday.  

Ive been getting back warranties on rear windows in 2-3 years using rayno s-5.
This is not acceptable especially when rayno makes you jump threw hoops to get paid. I can just see all the warranties coming in this year.
at 150.00 max per car its going to be a tough year. 
Ive been hearing good things about global ceramic films. What can anyone tell me.

I'm still testing the spray-on tack enhancer... Jury is still out.  What I need to do is to use a couple of pieces of film, maybe 2" wide x 6" long right next to each other.  One on the tack area and one without.  Squeegee both down for like 2 minutes and see if one is harder to pull away than the other.  I can confirm it doesn't seem to damage the adhesive.