alberts316

We've looked into it multiple times and even got some samples, but we always come to the same conclusion, not worth it. It might be an option if your vehicle has a very expensive windshield. Otherwise, it will cost you just as much or more than new glass to swap this out every year, not to mention the required maintenance. It would be a great product if a brand resisted wiper scratching and had superior optical clarity. IMO, it is more of a cash grab for the shop than actual value to the consumer.

As far as the best heat rejection in the lightest shade you're probably still looking at 3M Crystalline. In terms of scratch resistance to a dog I don't know that any of them are going to be great long term. I can tell you that in my experience with various films from 3M, Suntek, Xpel, Llumar, and Global that the Global Ceramic film has the most robust scratch resistant coating of them all followed closely by the Xpel. As an installer I've gotten downright abusive with that Global and not had it scratch. 

They might not like you either. 🤷‍♂️ Either way, the world keeps spinning.

Name something that doesn't come "overseas" in part or in whole on the industrial market. 
 
Should I trust the Korean products? Chinese? Vietnamese? US? India? Germany? Japan?
 
How many of the companies in each location are using their own source materials in their final products?
 
I think thou doth protest too much. 

I guarantee that something stupid is going on at every shop depending on the day. Always someone getting in a hurry and cutting a corner. I've seen some of the biggest shops around here take in mediocre installers in hopes of retraining them and eating damage along the way.
 
There's and old saying...."never look inside the kitchen of your favorite restaurant, just wait for the plate".

I've tried things like that. No one was interested in posting to areas that were roped off so I'm just going with the free model in hopes of generating more participation and paying the bill via sponsors.  

I would have some questions as well. 
 
-What type of glass? (IG, single pane)
-How important is natural light to the space and it’s workings during daylight hours?
-Is there any visibility concerns looking outward/inward into the nighttime hours?
-What does the CEO expect the exterior to look like post tinting?

I had one of these and it did the same thing.  All factory glass but it had some type of Low E coating on the glass.  I tried ceramic and nr and both had the same look afterwards.  I've done a fair bit of rovers and only one had it.  I want to say 2015 was the year.

I have two GCCs 40" and 72"  They are perfect for a small shop or starting out.  I've had no issues in a few years.  Ran a DGI up till last year.
 

Get some Global HP 20 from Express Window Film. Easy to handle/install, last for years, easy on the pocket. Pro quality without any bs.

Don't do color change wrap...there no money in it unless you are well known... start doing stripe kit which pay better and can come out in a few hours.. anyone can get their hand 🤚 on the best wrap material (3M 1080 and Avery) and wrap a car in the garage. 

Since I'm an older user/seller of SolarGard products, I'd have to say, 'go with that one'.

I have used the Llumar Extra film and it is 11.5 mils thick.  It is nice for extra protection but it does come with some trade offs.  I did the bed sides of a black Ram Dually.  They are terrible for rock chips on the bed sides.  The orange peel is more than the standard 6 mil window film.  The biggest issue we came across was the deforming of the film when something does hit it. Most likely being on a black truck made it more apparent but there were very noticeable "white" marks from where it got hit by something.  Granted it saved the paint but customers kind of see paint protection as I indestructible barrier.  Also being so thick it does not conform as easily as the 6 mil.  It has its place and works well in those places.  Rockers, spats, fender flares, heavy equipment.

So what of this list does Garware, Global,  not make?  You know Madico doesn't make poly? 

90% on a rag to wipe the edges before installing. My normal mix for just pulling grease off an open area is 50%. 
 
I wax the ppf to moisturize the material, and to make it easy to clean later. I don't want any chemicals splashing up off the road trying to stain a dry film, especially if it's hot outside.
 
I want my customers satisfied so I put in the best practices I know to make sure the job looks good on delivery and after they get home.

I would use a 90% iso wipe and stick the emblem. A fine machine polish and iso wipe would also be ok. The glue on the emblems is pretty aggressive, I wouldn't worry about it lifting. I use 90%iso on a rag for my edge prep as well. It can and will burn/etch the surface, you've been warned.
 
As a precaution I'll usually wipe any fresh ppf with a pure carnuba wax a few hours after install. Sometimes the film is pretty dry on the surface. I do it as a preventive measure in case it gets splatted with tar or a big bugs, I want it to be easy to clean for the customer and hopefully not stain the material.

Mobile is about the worst situation for a new tinter. Apprentice for a local retail shop, in one stationary spot, until you figure it out if you are thinking of making any income from your efforts 

@flat rock stanis a top instructor.  Has a video set too.

Night and day difference. CS is a very thin film that burns or creases easily, CR can smear the adhesive between the layers if not heated properly. CR isn't a particularly thick film either, it's about average really. I'm not familiar with how their CIR compares since I dropped 3M a couple months before they finally released it. As far as 3M films that have the logo stamp they do that on Obsidian, Color Stable, Ceramic IR, and the Crystalline, however there have been documented instances in the past of that being copied on the fake CR film some have gotten in the past. As far as shrinking goes in general it really does come down to practice and experience. Don't rush it, especially as someone just looking to learn the trade, impatience is your enemy in this business. Shrink the film slowly and really pay attention to how it reacts to the heat and you'll learn to "read" the film, for lack of a better way to put it. Experiment with the distance and angle of your heat gun and how that effects the film as it's shrinking, eventually you'll develop the technique that's going to work best for you. Starting out you're going to waste a lot of film, it is what it is and part of paying your dues so to speak. You can get a shorter roll of film from express window films that's good quality and more affordable to learn on if you're serious about pursuing this. 

Lots of hot air.
 
You know? Fine.. so tell. Otherwise, move along. No one cares.
 
 

Most seasoned window tinters in the US know that the vast majority of film makers, converters and suppliers are in bed with each other. The big guys might buy a component or more from a smaller guy and vice versa.
 
Last I knew Garware was the only vertically integrated window film manny in the world (i.e., capable of manufacturing every component needed to construct any of their film offerings), with Eastman (formerly CPFilms) coming in second to Garware's capabilities.
 
That's about all you'll get out of this tintguy because all others should be considered converters (i.e., having to buy more than one component to construct a film product).
 
I might be way off one this because it's been too many years since being immersed the industry.
 
Nice of you to pass through. I believe any cold shoulder feel from visiting may be based in the fact that NDA's rule the industry at many levels and those slinging the film daily don't give two how it's made or who makes it as long as it will last.

I do them all the time with CIR 70 and CIR 50 with no issues.  Just letting you know it can be done.

I do them all the time with CIR 70 and CIR 50 with no issues.  Just letting you know it can be done.

I won't let a customer keep my work.  I lost about $500 all said and done recently on a motor home front sides because of just this reason.  He wanted to keep it and get back some money.... I said no way. 

We've dealt with several of these types of customers over the years. If he was that irate on his 1st visit after the job, I would simply offer to remove the tint and give him a full refund. I would not attempt to retint it because chances are he will act the same way and you just wasted time/film trying to make him happy. I would just cut my loses right there and move on. If you don't feel comfortable touching his vehicle again (like he might blame you for damage) then offer a 50% refund and he keeps the film. This way you still made some profit and if he has another shop retint it, he will spend even more money on the removal. So win win.