pbalentine

Happens with or without window tint, cracks from the body flex.  It is covered under warranty by Tesla.

BTW, we did 2 2020 Tesla Model 3's this past week and both had the large rear window.

Every Model 3 has the same back window, the Model S is the one with a smaller back window. I personally upcharge that back window due to the size and time

This is one way people tint fast...they dont press out any tiny specs! I press out anything along top edge before rolling glass up. Then I check the entire glass. Then when job is finished I check again. If they let it go like that they either dont care or thats just  the quality of their work. I would have them remove it and just go somewhere else. 

Dont be that tinter that takes pride in being fast. Most of them cut corners or are full or shiat. Seriously, how can you be that fast if you live on this forum?? Just a bunch or posers. 

This is one way people tint fast...they dont press out any tiny specs! I press out anything along top edge before rolling glass up. Then I check the entire glass. Then when job is finished I check again. If they let it go like that they either dont care or thats just  the quality of their work. I would have them remove it and just go somewhere else. 

Is it possible to cultivate work in your area? The biggest group of potential buyers are the non-buyers due to not knowing the benefits of your services.  You know what the product does.... In your area, do people need it?
 
 

I’m not a tinter but you answered your own question. Your work space is a mess and you are searching for tools. Get an organizer and clean up your mess.

I quit using the scrubbies to clean the windows and only razor the sides. I use micro fiber towels that I wash weekly on three hour cycle and are color coded for their uses. Orange for dirty work and green is clean, final pass before tinting and I use a fresh set or two on eash car. The orange ones I clean the gaskets with and the top edge of the glass. I do my final clean pass with my unger pro squeegee and whipe with the green one before install. 
You may need to also disassemble your unger squeegee and clean it good. Make sure it has a good blade in it and always keep extra inserts on hand for it to change out. Peal your backing off on a peeler board with your tint upside down and peel up with the liner going up. Always keep your peeler board clean. If you cut your film on the outside always clean the glass before cutting your patterns. This eliminates a lot of dirt from contaminating your peeler board, tools and film. 
Fortunately I always have clean installs due to these steps I take.

Certified Pre-Owned places generally remove all aftermarket tint, especially if it might be illegal.  
Good chance this car was tinted before you and you are noticing the lines because you now have tint and it is easier to see the differences in the lines.  

Lines are broken, see this more often on a used car that's had paper tags or stickers on inside of back window. They either pull defrost when removed or some genius will try to scrape them off with razor blade. Probably like that before install only noticeable now after tinted 

Im qualified but I'm not showing up on time that's for sure. 

Excited to announce that our new shop will be completed this month. We hope to get moved in and using it next month. Been a long time in the making and we are more than ready!

If it’s all over it’s in the air or slip 

Contamination can be many factors. Easy for some and harder for others. The biggest are your prep and environment. I was tinting in my garage for many years and didn’t realize how good I had it. I use to have the garage open when tinting even with a slight breeze would get excellent results. Now that I’m in my new shop I have to have the roll up doors closed when tinting. I’ve also figured out that it has to be closed for a few minutes before peeling. I use to peel the backglass off of the car but can’t do that anymore and use my peeler. The small holes in the shop also contributes. I’ve patched up small holes with duct tape and has helped. There’s small holes at the top of the shop A frames where dust is coming in from my neighbors but I need a big ass ladder to get to. Hard water can be issues. To get excellent results you have to control the environment. Every day I use a leaf blower and dust mop multiple times a day. 
As for using razor blades I’m moving away from that as the new glass are chit and can scratch easy. Use a scrubbie! If you can’t control the environment then maybe it’s time to move. 

It looks like it will just tuck back up into run channel.  Pull a little more out for better tuck into the corner.  If it pops out again, you could add a small drop of urethane on the inside channel to hold it in place....or buy a new seal.   In either case,  correct the way it sits and tell customer "the rubber will have some memory, let it set a week or so to mold back to proper profile".  Some times this helps.

With everything law enforcement puts up with daily... I’d be overly cautious as well. Stfu. Answer their questions politely yes sir no ma’am. Go on about your day. It’s simple. But unfortunately this new generation isn’t raised to treat everyone with respect. If you’re gonna be a smart ass be prepared to be treated as such! I’ve been pulled over countless times over the years. Never once lost my cool or forgot my manners.... never had a gun drawn on me...

Just listen to the cops and quit being a dumbass it's that simple. 

Thing with tucking is you just will get those few times they just pop up. Had this happen on a Maxima last week, which I usually pull. Spent like 10 minutes messing with fingers. Just pulled the for the rest. Im tucking the older Gen Silverado and newer F150s and it ends there. I actually like removing stuff and like installing rollups like an easy, stationary SUV window. 

I’ll go out on a limb and say no.....but maybe  

I NEVER tuck. I do spend more time now days pulling sweeps out. I never have fingers popping up as I make sure to shrink the film before installing.

Been pulling seals/panels on probably 90% of vehicle. I went back the last couple months tucking what could to see if it came out as clean. Id say barely any were as clean. You’re either dealing with fingers popping up, fixing imperfections, bottom contamination or all of the above. You cant say tucking is as clean as pulling panels/ seals unless you start pulling stuff on every vehicle. This lets you see that some of the installs you tucked werent as clean as you thought at the time. 

Been pulling seals/panels on probably 90% of vehicle. I went back the last couple months tucking what could to see if it came out as clean. Id say barely any were as clean. You’re either dealing with fingers popping up, fixing imperfections, bottom contamination or all of the above. You cant say tucking is as clean as pulling panels/ seals unless you start pulling stuff on every vehicle. This lets you see that some of the installs you tucked werent as clean as you thought at the time. 

Been pulling seals/panels on probably 90% of vehicle. I went back the last couple months tucking what could to see if it came out as clean. Id say barely any were as clean. You’re either dealing with fingers popping up, fixing imperfections, bottom contamination or all of the above. You cant say tucking is as clean as pulling panels/ seals unless you start pulling stuff on every vehicle. This lets you see that some of the installs you tucked werent as clean as you thought at the time. 

Trunk only 10mm needs to remove. Where are you getting the extra screws from ? Door panels only top 2 screws need to come out and the seals pull right out.