Tintguy1980

Agree. If a customer wants and paid for the highest quality film, they are right to expect the highest quality install which the installer should be rewarded for.
 
If you have a trouble free installer, that alone is worth rewarding or you'll soon find that there is a new shop in your neighborhood, which will leave you picking through the dustbin of bad habits and unreliable techs  for the next 18months.
Less margin = less headache = less resentment = greater stability, imho.

Welcome to the forum. I split your question of into its own thread.
 
From an installer viewpoint, a % of the price is a % of the price. Plus ceramic is usually more difficult to install, so why not pay him/her that few bucks more? 
 
From an owner viewpoint, you want to keep your costs as low as possible, and that upsell is some nice gravy.
 
If you are happy with your installer (and that's rare) it might be in your interest to cut him/her in on the upgrade IMHO.

Thanks ... I am but an 8th grader compared to the colleagues I once worked with (and, no, don't ask ... as I am bound by NDA not to disclose where I worked or with whom).
 
I am going to presume one of the samples you show is silver reflective on both sides and the other is silver reflective on one side and the opposing side is black (much like a real glass mirror)? Either way, I personally, would not put those films on standard lowE or lowE dual pane and they both would be overkill on lowE2, lowE3 and lowE4 (the three latter being high performance lowE). Standard clear dual pane glazing would handle the two choices presented.
 
Maybe the person you spoke with was thinking in terms of silver as in the metal (Ag) rather than silver in appearance. These samples are an aluminum vapor coating deposited to the polyester surface. Films are made with either and can almost look alike. One is just more pricey.
 
Edit:
I'm vaguely familiar with JWF products but I am going to go out on a limb and say Nightscape 05 is either a make up of two ply with each ply being coated with metal oxide to not have a shiny 'silver' appearance or it could be a three ply with two layers of dyed polyester with an aluminum coated ply sandwiched between each dye layer. Sorry, really don't know this product and am only comparing it to other known 'similar' constructions under other names.

The underlined is misinformation.
 
I posted in another discussion temperature differences between center pane and pane edge; that is one reason glass breaks. Glass center and glass edge heating up at different rates puts molecular stress on the glass or thermal stress as it's better known as. Other reasons include a minor crack or clam-shell chip at glass edge not visible because of frame. These two anomalies will crack quicker when the pane heats up from sun exposure than a pane with pristine edges. Adding tint to the equation you get ever more rapid glass failure.
 
Temperature difference can be witnessed during winter by simply pouring warm or hot water on a windshield to melt the frost or, vise versa. I had snow atop my Jeep a couple winters back. The sun had warmed up the windshield and as I approached a red light, braking, the snow slid off the roof onto the warm windshield. With a low 'pahting' sound, I witnessed a crack form from one side edge.
 
LowE in dual pane glass has become more prevalent in architecture, and with that, the need to be eyeing film reflection and absorption rates carefully. This is because the lowE coating is almost always on surface 2 (the inside surface of the outer pane). Placing a high reflection (or in some cases seriously high absorptive film) on surface 4 (the inside surface of the inner pane) causes that pane to heat up and though you might have air movement from the outside air, the lowE coating is trapping heat from escaping the outer pane. Heat always seeks cold (that's physics). The trapped heat will absorb into the tinted pane seeking transfer through to the cooler air on the room side, causing the inner pane to heat up beyond the limit; 50 F difference between center pane and pane edge for annealed glass. It is the uneven expansion rates between center and edge, again, puts undo stress on the glass to the point of failure. If tempered glass is involved in a dual pane setting with lowE coatings, the glass cannot fail due to heat stress, however. the seal that creates the dual pane can and will fail prematurely. Tempered glass fails at 200 F difference between center pane and glass edge.
 
High performance lowE is a different animal whereby most tints can be applied without breakage issues because that type glazing system rejects much of the solar energy before reaching the inner pane.
 
Another physics; the sun's electromagnetic radiation (visible, UV, and NIR) pass through glass, entering the room and heats up the air etc by absorption.
 
May I suggest you contact the IWFA (International Window Film Association) and request a copy of their Architectural Film Installation Guide (it'll cost you some digits but, well worth it as resource). Also, get your hands on a film-to-glass chart from any major film manufacturer and use it to determine what film is best for what glazing system. If your current supplier does not have one, get it from one that does and you can still use it if you closely compare film performance values from your supplier to that which is listed on a film to glass chart.
 
 

Laminated glass in architecture is almost always annealed.
 
Laminated glass in automotive is likely heat-strengthened in order to shape it.
 
Tempered lami is a minority.
 
It takes a 50 F. difference in edge temp and center temp for annealed to break.
 
It takes a 100 F. difference for heat-strengthened to break.
 
And it takes 200 F. difference for tempered to break.

Less slip is best . Just enough to position .
 
Eat your Wheaties before installation .
SLOW DOWN !!!!  Pretend its your job to remove ALL the water/slip solution !!  Oh wait ...IT IS YOUR JOB!!
The faster you go, the more "hydro planing " happens leaving slip solution behind.
Use a  solid blue blade squeegee no more than 6" wide .
 
HORIZONTAL PASSES ONLY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Vertical passes leave trails water will follow causing blisters.
Horizontal leaves no place for water to flow.
Water pressure at any depth is the same in a slip trail , fish tank or the lake. It will push the film off the glass!!
 
For easy alignment of your squeegee passes ,line up handle with the division between wet and dry from your last pass.
Be sure to "snowplow "at about 10° steering slip solution down the glass with each pass.

Get the weather-strip replaced or fixed to felt-lined rather than plastic and the issue will go away. The weather-strip in that car will scratch any film in time and may in the long term do damage to the glass.

I don't get peanuts!  Maybe 10 total in the last 10 years. It'ss more about the shrink.

The smoother the shrink the less likely to get peanuts.  If the film doesn't look pretty smooth if you pull it off the glass when you are done shrinking then you need to learn to move different or a better technique.
 
I don't hardly use my over under technique anymore as the windows aren't as curved.  Check it out though and see if you can pick something up. On my signature should be a link...

Confidence is built through experience. You need to be grinding out cars every day. My experience with people I've trained is it usually takes a couple of years to not struggle. I'm sure some can pick it up quicker. But on average two or three years.

Went from a hollow leg drinker to a 2 beer drunk on the floor in a matter of weeks.
And, we all know the long-term affect of alcohol on the liver.

All LLumar Automotive products have >99% UV rejection up to 380nm. Glass itself screens virtually all of the UVB. Adding window film screens UVA and the remainder of UVB. UV rejection % drops somewhere around 21 points by the time you get to 399nm. A car's windscreen and SUV privacy glass reduces UV up to 95% and again, adding film boosts UV screening performance values.
 
What many don't know or pass on when buying for the purpose you  have stated, is that for those who do have serious UV sensitivity need replace the product every 3-5 years to maintain maximum protective performance from the applied film. Every 3 years in sunny climates and 5 years in moderately sunny climates.
 
As to verifying the product is the brand you requested, other's here have given good insight.
 
You can also look for a window tint dealership in your area that owns a EDTM SS2450 meter. This meter can verify the product and glass are in fact reducing the UV to 0-!%. Although, it will require a more sensitive meter to break down nanometer %'s; meters usually specifically designed for and available for sale to UV sufferers.

Your general slip solution, increased in surfactant concentration, does the same thing.
 
Note: same as the warning label on the bottle above, wet spray will cause slippery floor.
 
And either way you go, both will continually leave build up that becomes slippery when wet.

Architectural films rely on wind speed produced by nature to achieve higher TSER performance than the 7mph rate used to calculate published performance.
 
Automotive films rely on vehicle speed to achieve higher TSER performance than the 7mph rate used to calculate published performance.
 
Can't run a building down the road so architectural films tend to have higher TSER's with respectable visible light transmission.

Not the most hated but I did not enjoy this job back in the 80's, despite its notoriety. No wheels.
 

Honestly, I think that none of the ratings perfectly tell the story of what a film does in the real world.  TSER is just the standard go-to rating and the IRR (SIRR) is just popular because you feel the Infrared more.  It doesn't count for variables like how the film blocks the heat and I'm sure plenty of others.  I leave that for the people that are smarter than me in the window film business.  I just know it is not the full story.  For example, one of my vehicles had Huper Ceramic 35 on the sides/rear/sunroof and 50 on the windshield.  When we switched films, I switched it to 3M Crystalline 40 on the sides/rear/sunroof and 50 on the windshield.  Huper Ceramic 35 has 65% TSER and 81% IRR...3M Crystalline 40 has 60% TSER and 97% IRR (full spectrum is somewhere in the mid-'80s).  However, I instantly noticed an improvement in performance even though Crystalline has a lower TSER and similar IRR.  Another one of our guys did the same change on his car and also felt a big improvement.  

Not the most hated but I did not enjoy this job back in the 80's, despite its notoriety. No wheels.
 

Infrared bulbs emit 95% infrared energy whereby the sun only emits 48.xx %.
 
Same bulb, visible light 5% and the sun 48.xx%
 
Both visible and infrared energy will convert to heat once absorbed by any surface, infrared is simply 'felt' sooner because it penetrates deeper into the skin causing tissue moisture near nerve receptors to heat up. Water is the best absorber of infrared.
 
The display you speak of is not misleading since both films mentioned work best in the infrared.
 
Misleading would be to compare one of the two films mentioned to a dye-metal or straight dyed film.
 
Edit: If you want to compare differing film structure performance, a Halogen bulb is the closest to resembling the sun's energy; publicly available.

Not the most hated but I did not enjoy this job back in the 80's, despite its notoriety. No wheels.
 

Not the most hated but I did not enjoy this job back in the 80's, despite its notoriety. No wheels.
 

I would tend to believe drying out would be the answer on a brand new vehicle however, as the vehicles ages the moisture may get contaminated from road dust entry.
 
One solution would be minimize moisture use (e.g. a wipe clean and wetting film only) and use an absorbing towel over a hard card or squeegee to evacuate the solution. Ditto with final finish hardcarding.

When I used it back in the 80's it didn't cause any breathing proplems. However, it did lead to saving on the amount of beer I drank because it caused alcohol poisioning in my bloodstream. The ratio used was about one cup per 2 quart sprayer.
 
Since those times I've learned, adding alcohol to slip solution does nothing for the film's drying time. It simply displaces the amount of water used, which still dries at its usual rate.
 
Use at your own risk.

Tom explained it in a simple fashion. However, it is more complex than what is seen through simple experimentation. In other words, as long as the car is in motion you will benefit from a film's heat control aspect. When tested, all mannies utilize the same means of extracting the TSER of their film product. The published performance of film products are calculated using a wind speed across the glass of 7mph. Obviously, the faster the vehicle moves, the high the TSER because more absorbed energy is carried away and less will radiate inward to the cabin.
 
As stated before, 'ceramic' technology in window film relies mostly on absorption, which requires the glass be cooled by wind across its surface. This absorption will allow you to feel what might be radiating off film and glass while driving the car with the AC running.
 
The one film out there that 'reflects' near infrared (NIR) energy is 3M's Crystalline. Near infrared is the part of the sun's energy that we 'feel' in the immediate when sitting on the protected side of a glass/film barrier. This is because it (NIR) penetrates deeper into the skin, warming moisture surrounding nerve endings and leading the brain to say, warm/hot. Crystalline reflects a very large percentage of NIR (88-97%) in the most intense region of NIR (780- roughly 1200 nanometers). The entire NIR region of the solar spectrum encompasses 780-2500 nanometers.
 
NIR accounts for approximately 48+% of the sun's energy and visible light (VL) accounts for 49+%, leaving the remaining to ultraviolet (UV). Visible light and UV will create heat once it strikes a surface (such as skin) and is 'felt' at a much slower rate compared with NIR.
 
So, it's down to absorption versus reflection and it should be seen a slightly higher TSER values.
 

Tom explained it in a simple fashion. However, it is more complex than what is seen through simple experimentation. In other words, as long as the car is in motion you will benefit from a film's heat control aspect. When tested, all mannies utilize the same means of extracting the TSER of their film product. The published performance of film products are calculated using a wind speed across the glass of 7mph. Obviously, the faster the vehicle moves, the high the TSER because more absorbed energy is carried away and less will radiate inward to the cabin.
 
As stated before, 'ceramic' technology in window film relies mostly on absorption, which requires the glass be cooled by wind across its surface. This absorption will allow you to feel what might be radiating off film and glass while driving the car with the AC running.
 
The one film out there that 'reflects' near infrared (NIR) energy is 3M's Crystalline. Near infrared is the part of the sun's energy that we 'feel' in the immediate when sitting on the protected side of a glass/film barrier. This is because it (NIR) penetrates deeper into the skin, warming moisture surrounding nerve endings and leading the brain to say, warm/hot. Crystalline reflects a very large percentage of NIR (88-97%) in the most intense region of NIR (780- roughly 1200 nanometers). The entire NIR region of the solar spectrum encompasses 780-2500 nanometers.
 
NIR accounts for approximately 48+% of the sun's energy and visible light (VL) accounts for 49+%, leaving the remaining to ultraviolet (UV). Visible light and UV will create heat once it strikes a surface (such as skin) and is 'felt' at a much slower rate compared with NIR.
 
So, it's down to absorption versus reflection and it should be seen a slightly higher TSER values.
 

All LLumar Automotive products have >99% UV rejection up to 380nm. Glass itself screens virtually all of the UVB. Adding window film screens UVA and the remainder of UVB. UV rejection % drops somewhere around 21 points by the time you get to 399nm. A car's windscreen and SUV privacy glass reduces UV up to 95% and again, adding film boosts UV screening performance values.
 
What many don't know or pass on when buying for the purpose you  have stated, is that for those who do have serious UV sensitivity need replace the product every 3-5 years to maintain maximum protective performance from the applied film. Every 3 years in sunny climates and 5 years in moderately sunny climates.
 
As to verifying the product is the brand you requested, other's here have given good insight.
 
You can also look for a window tint dealership in your area that owns a EDTM SS2450 meter. This meter can verify the product and glass are in fact reducing the UV to 0-!%. Although, it will require a more sensitive meter to break down nanometer %'s; meters usually specifically designed for and available for sale to UV sufferers.