minty

(Long time lurker but 1st time poster here!)
 
I quite often use Meguiars Ultimate detailer on areas of the panel that won’t need a hard tack but as already mentioned - keep it away from areas that would need a good bite such as edges and valleys where the film would have a tendency to spring up. As Speed says, squeegeeing bubbles out etc is much easier and it can almost help turn XPEL into a more forgiving film to install like Suntek is. 

Don't expect too much from the 72" film right out of the gate. We will also have the 72" web available in our PremiumShield Elite SH;  also in late January 2019. We just didn't see the need to market it at SEMA in November when we knew we were at least 3 months away from having any stock  
 
This film is not made by Suntek (Eastman). The raw polyurethane is available to all adhesive coaters, and as such, I am sure they will all have some form of the 72" film available early next year. It will not be exclusive to any one brand.
 
I say don't expect too much, because this film is very hard to extrude at wide widths. I remember when we went from 48" out to 60" with the old VentureShield and it was not pretty! Lots of lines in the raw film as well as extrusion bands at the edges. I expect similar growing pains with the 72" wide material. The problem here is that this wide film will most likely be used on massive full hood applications where quality is critical! Also, most likely on very expensive vehicles where there is even more scrutiny. 
 
We will have more information on availability as we get closer, and will have samples available right after Christmas. If you are interested in a sample, please contact the office and we'll put you on the list.
 
 
 
 

I dont know what 3m or xpel charges per square foot but i consider the product itself to be in the same playing field if not better then 3M or Xpel. Software maybe not so much but the clarity and stain resistance it is one of the best imo

Yeah like minty said, dry app only works for small pieces. even smartphones can be tricky doing it dry apply. 
I had a MB C63S come in, they wanted the whole piano black centre console done in PPF, at first I said no because it would have to be wet applied and I would have to remove the whole piece out of the car and then remove all the electronics out of it in order to do it wet, and they say ok do that lol, so I just charged accordingly...

Never install over fresh paint. The finish has gasses that need to expel naturally or you could risk spots lifting at time of install or down the road if it ever has to be removed. If it is a fresh spray single pass with clear, two to four weeks will be fine. If it is three or more coats of spray and clear, give it a good 30 days. 

What ever happened to this one? suddenly remember it would be good to check out the final product and see the videos and features that were created for it but i cant seem to find anything?

I would let this one walk. He will be a torn in your side.
 

Not worth the liability IMO.  yes you could do it if you follow these instructions from this video but ask yourself if it's worth the risk.  Imagine trying to open it with wet film on it...  
 
You don't want to be the one making that phone call to the owner that something went wrong and he's got to get a new hood or whatever....

A good kit will install faster than a bulk install 9 times out of 10.    A good kit should look just as good as a bulk install 8 times out of 10 (the symmetry and even edges are nice, as are sensor cutouts).  Kits remove some of the liability as well, so it is a good place to start while you further develop your bulking techgnique (which doesn't come overnight).
 
Having said that, there are some panels and some cars where bulking just makes more sense.  
 
As an installer, you should learn to be highly skilled at both bulk and precut, that way you can offer different levels of service and value.

Sometimes I remove the tow hook but that's all.  I only bulk if there isn't any pattern available.  Taking cars apart and putting them back together correctly takes too much time IMO.

I'd say I am in the same boat as Jeff.
 
Having said that, my advice to all of these types of questions remains the same - ask manufacturers for a sample roll, try the film for yourself, and make a decision as to which you prefer. It's great to pose questions on internet forums, but at the end of the day, I'd prefer to try tings myself V's relying solely on the experiences of others.
 
Just my 2 cents....

All depends on the car and how many installers are on the case. Usually if there is a badge in the middle then I would start from there, other times I will start from underneath a headlight and work left and right or even a wheel arch and go coast to coast. I guess what I am saying is there are no hard and fast rules. 
 
Steve

How much time and headache did you save using a better pattern? Whats that worth to you monetarily ?

It's very difficult if not impossible to squeegee all the fluid out and I have found bubbles forming after a period of time. The only thing I can put that down to is any excess fluid will find it's own way to the weakest point of adhesion. Obviously it's preferable for this not to happen but I have found that fluid will dissipate over a few days if left alone but as has been said, best practice is to check and double check a panel before moving on to the next. If you try to squeegee a bubble after the film has started to cure though you can leave 'snail trails' in the film that won't go away. I would never leave a car in the sun to force dry the film as on a hot day it can actually boil the fluid and leave a vapor bubble that will never go of it's own accord and can leave a ring when you release it with a needle.
 
Steve

That's when you get the call saying " the film has all bubbled up..."

As bonnets go, this one was interesting...Never be afraid of doing it wrong, you will learn more by your mistakes than your successes. 
 
Steve

I do not understand someone willing to pay extra to protect their paint by adding PPF, but then run their car through an automatic wash.  It's like you care about keeping it new looking, but don't at the same time.

You'll have more headaches pleasing Corvette owners than you will with Ferrari owners. The bumper is moderately difficult, but everything else on that car is easy peasy.  Set your pricing based on the bigger harder cars and charge that much for everything. 
 
You just want to build in enough margin that you aren't afraid to spend as much time and film needed to make sure that the job looks great and still make a profit.  Every once in a while you'll have the customer with unrealistic expectations that you have to be prepared to refund, so keep that "slush fund" in mind as well.

I will go along with that, their after care is also excellent.
Suntek are also very good and have just opened their new training centre.
 
Steve

Why not just put two layers of normal film where you want the 14.  If its anything more than an easy flat area, I'll bet two layers would be way quicker and easier.

Premium Shield is a great choice! Contact www.premiumshield.com, Keith and his team will make you an excellent installer ;)

We have a no smoking at work rule in the UK any way but there would be no way I would let anyone working on cars in my custody anywhere near them if they were smoking. One damaged car/install is one too many as far as I am concerned.
 
Steve

I'm a smoker and I think it's unprofessional to smoke around a customer's car or in the shop at all.  

Almost there here are a few more teasers and what the rear bumper will look like with letters still on. Should be done next week